New HE5t steam dryer will not turn on

Unfortunately you spent money unnecessarily, and before making any additional errors; it would be best to have a trained technician with knowledge of the washer, service the system.

Hi, we also got the SUDS error followed by F35 many times. I replaced the analog water level switch, Wirlpool part number W10156252, and the problem went away. The part is located against the back right corner of the top of the washer after removing the top cover. The part cost $62.99 + $12.95 express shipping from ApplianceZone.net. I have the Kenmore HE3t Steam Washer, model number 110.46752 700 front loader. I was able to run about 6 loads of laundry by unplugging the washer, waiting about 5 minutes, the re-plugging and re-starting the washer. Thereafter, the problem became permanent. I always used HE detergent. The washer was purchased new in December 2007, and the I made the repair in September 2009. I spent about $1300 for the Kenmore H3t Steam Washer, and I am disappointed that it required repair after less than 2 years. My mothers old Maytag washer lasted more than 15 years, and was not susceptible to soap SUDS.

The F99 error indicates the interface and central control are not compatible.

It means you selected a cycle on the interface that the central control does not recognize.

Usually this means the two controls are not compatible which might happen if an older control was installed in a new machine.

If the washer is brand new then I suggest scheduling a warrantee service call.

The only thing I could suggest you try yourself is to enter and run a service test.
The instructions to do so are in the image below.

(Be sure to press the button for a full 4 seconds.)

Perhaps this will reset and coordinate the interface and control.



http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sskrstwsgdkssbtxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/rqfqbsgwdxsbftrkdks/1/1303472/5961857/image7062766216422141446img-or.jpg



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question ((*))

I have the same problem . If I power cycle mine enough times I eventually get a F70 or F71 code. My research online suggests that the user interface board has a problem and needs to be replaced.

The good news is the warranty covers these boards for two years. The bad news is they are $360 if you are out of warranty.

HTH

IT IS THE ANALOG PRESSURE SENSOR NOT THE STEAM CHAMBER.

Washers n dryers usually require some balancing after a move to the new area, and when you lift the washer on a dolly, you lift it from the rear. Assuming you've already tipped the washer slighlty to one side, checked the bottom for which side has the most metal underneath. This is best done with 2 people. Do the same with the dryer. The braces are used to help balance or to keep from tipping when the machine was packed inside a large box.

Brand new unit - same problem. After an hour of investigating, I found the issue.
You don't actually have to SLAM the door. If you look closely, there are 3 separate pins that must latch. One is a simple push-button style which latches no problem.
The others are little prongs at the top and bottom of door. The bottom prong latches cleanly, but the top one will not latch because the door is a bit too flexible.
Close the door normally, then firmly press on the top edge of the door. You will hear the final latch grab, then you press and hold the start button. The dryer starts normally.
Yay!

this looks like a classic whirlpool control board issue. fault is a communication error between board and panel. check connections.
whirlpool always recommends replacing both at same time. very common problem.

I had the same problem, but due to the great info on the internet, I found the problem and solution.  I have been able to temporarily fix it until I can get someone out to repair the plunger.  The site below has the details.  http://applianceblog.com/forums/view_topic.php?id=730&forum_id=2&jump_to=4559
Karen