Question about GE JGBP28 Gas Kitchen Range

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Oven, Broiler inopperable

My stovetop burners all work perfect and so does my temperature display, clock, timer, and oven temperature dial. When I turn my oven on I hear a click...the temperature is displayed...the oven light turns on...but no oven flame and no oven gas is distributed...PLEASE HELP! Thanks P.S. Not sure if oven has a pilotless ignitor or not...Is it worth fixing or should I buy a new one? Thanks again.

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  • 2 more comments 
  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2014

    Oven temperature is incorrect

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    New Wolf Oven and the temperature indicator light blinks constantly even when the oven is off

  • Anonymous Mar 27, 2014

    No power to the ovens or clock or ignitors

  • Anonymous Mar 30, 2014

    oven felt hotter than it says



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Sandwich, is it your bake or broil thats not working? You have two ignitors, one for bake and broil. One of them is your culprit. This is not a hard job. The post header says broil not working so the part number for that is WB13K0003. Bake ignitor is WB13K0004. To get at the bake ignitor you have to remove the oven bottom inside panel, remove the flame spreader (both easy). The click you are hearing is the board relay sending power to the ignitor. The ignitor has to draw so many amps to open the gas valve. The oven is pilotless. back.

Posted on Apr 21, 2007


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If the phenomenon is intermittent, and you get it going and coming as you restart the oven, then it is likely a bad wiring or a bad connection.
Ensure first that the circuit breaker is ok and well in place, then proceed testing wirings.
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Was adjusting the temperature dial when oven shut down clock is off as well and electric gas lighters for elements not working, what would cause this - I have checked the power supply box and it is fine

clock must be set to correct time or it will hinder proper operation of oven

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.
Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. GAS OVENS 1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).

2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).

3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.

There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

CHECK THE OVEN RELAY CONTROL BOARD Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.

Mar 18, 2015 | Ovens

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I have a Kenmore 790.96224 electric range and the burners and oven do not work, but the clock is working. how do i fix?

Try replacing ONE stovetop burner and see if the new one works. If it does, replace more stovetop burners. If the new ones all work, replace the oven burners.

If that first replacement stovetop burner STILL doesn't work, don't replace any more. Instead, check (or have checked) the circuit breaker for the range. It may get power from a second source to power the clock.

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1 Answer

No display for the temperature. Oven turns on and heats a little but no way to set the temperature. Clock still displays and burners work great. What could it be?

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning the bulb properly will take care of this problem.

Digital display models use a sensor to control temperature. If this is faulty, replace it. Other ovens use a mechanical system to control the temperature.

On many models, you can adjust your oven thermostat using a small screwdriver. The adjusting screw is located on the thermostat valve stem. Remove the knob and you'll see the screw underneath it. You want to turn the oven on and run it through at least two cycles while watching a calibrating thermometer in the oven for high and low temperatures. Adjust the screw as necessary to fine tune the temperature.

Some models don't have an adjustable thermostat, and you will have to replace the thermostat if you want to resolve the problem.

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1 Answer

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I had a Wolf 30F wall oven with a similar problem
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Also note: in my case I had to close the display
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To reset other
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Immediately after the oven is installed, set
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1) Touch CLOCK.

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