Question about Mitsubishi WS-73909 73" Rear Projection Television

1 Answer

3-D Appearance Mitsubishi WS-73909

I think I have a convergence issue with my set. I can't adjust nor improve the situation.
I checked codes but can't tell if I have a code 12 or 21 but it appears it's a 12 as I get the single flash first.
Anyway I'm looking for thoughts on testing or possible ideas for what may be wrong.

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  • ph2ocraft Dec 27, 2008

    Thanks! My buddies buddy is a TV repairman (news to me) and after about 5 seconds said the samething. "Replace the IC chips and see if that solves the problem. Even if it doesn't solve the problem, they would need replacing soon anyway."

  • Anonymous Dec 27, 2008

    Any tips on removing the board?
    I'm not sure if I can just remove the borad or if I need to remove the entire chassis and then the board.
    Any pictures showing actual location?

  • ph2ocraft Dec 28, 2008

    Yeppers, most cables were long enough to slide the chassis out. The ones that weren't I marked (even though the factory did it) and disconnected.

    Once I got the chassis back it was very easy to remove the board.

    Mine has 1 IC chip so I ordered it and await the next phase.



    THANKS GUYS!!

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  • Master
  • 505 Answers

12 = normal op
you will need to replace the convergence ICs
this link will show you a simillar repair on a pioneer.. I can assist with any specifics.. same idea, different part #s and disassembly

http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.filippov/ConvergenceFix.htm

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

  • thielectronick
    thielectronick Dec 28, 2008

    The board you need to remove is in the middle of the tv set. Mitsubishi gives long cables, so you can slide it out, but you have to unhook all the cable ties. Definately remove the board not the chassis.. but slide the chassis out a bit for easier access. Not sure on your model because its much more rare, but usually you have to remove the heatsink (big metal thing ICs thermally bonded to) to get the board out. This may require removing a bar across the ICs so you can get to the screws holding the heatsink in.. All screws should be philips and all the plugs are labeled in mits, so no worries there. The only difference between the way listed in the link to the way I do it, is the unsoldering of the ICs.. I use wick or a desoldering tool instead of cutting the legs and heating and pulling them.. either way should work but be careful not to heat the board too much or the pads can fall off.

  • thielectronick
    thielectronick Dec 28, 2008

    yeah the 1 ic = stk393-110



    be careful you get the pins right, this one zig-zags. also check all the resistors around the IC for burn up, most mits failures don't have issues. In some cases you can get luck and just resolder the IC to fix the issue, or around it, but thats only with intermittent problems and the IC will only last 5-8 years anyways

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