Question about GE JBP68 CleanDesign Electric Kitchen Range

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The lower burner burnt in half after arcing....

We had been using the oven for about 5 hours and noticed it begin to arc and move long the element .... we used a fire extingusher to finally get it to stop .... is this something I can replace myself ( the element ) ???? and if so how can i get the replacement part??

Thank you for your help

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Yes, elements are common and VERY easy to repair. Just be sure to un-plug the oven so you don't have to worry about shock or electrocution.

You will need the replacement part (probably less then $50) a screwdriver and or a 1/2 socket wrench.

You can order the parts locally or use a site like this (repairclinic.com) to identify and order the parts you need.

Posted on Jan 31, 2009

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Remove power replace elenent, online parts bake element with model #.

Posted on Dec 27, 2008

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Main oven causes trip switch to trip out when `I turn the dial to switch on. Top oven is fine.


Likely the element is shorted in the main oven. The Calrod elements short usually at the bends and if the breaker doesn't trip they burn a hole in them and arc. You can USUALLY see a different discoloration at teh failure point. Check both upper and lower elements as preheat probably uses both. Use a dental mirror if necessary to see under and over. Use bright light.

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Mercury Vapor lamp... how does it work? How do you know when it's bad? I'll try to shed some light on this topic. *Caution: material for the curious follows.

First, let's cover the basics: How it works.

A Mercury Vapor is a mix of electro-chemical and some mechanical ingenuity. Although some may not agree with me, I will state my case anyway. The lamp has a few basic parts. The reflector, which we all see, is used to direct the light in the intended direction... forward. Within the reflector, we have the actual bulb. The bulb contains the burner, mercury, and a fluorescent element. The width of the burner gap is critical for initial and sustained ignition of the lamp.

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When your turn on your projection TV, a power supply devoted to the lamp (known as a ballast) passed about 300+ volts of high energy electricity through the lamp, but only for a few seconds. This energy arcs across the burner and vaporizes the Mercury. With the Mercury vaporized, the mercury is now free to move around within the bulb. The power supply then switches into a driving mode and begins feeding about 10,000+ volts at a lower energy. This allows the arcing between the burner gap to continue. The mercury, which is excited by all the electrical activity, begins to slam into the florescent element. In turn, the element glows brightly.

So, that's basically how it works... but what you don't see is the damage. At one time or another, we have all plugged something into the wall and POW... sparks fly. If you had looked close at the plug, you may have noticed some pitting or damage from the spark. This is an electrical arc. The same thing is happening inside your lamp, on a smaller scale. Each high energy ignition causes material to be worn away from the burner. The lost material builds up as contamination within the bulb and the loss of material causes the width of the burner gap to grow.

Some maybe wondering... "Is there a secret formula for extending my lamp's life?" The short answer is: "Stop watching it." The long answer is: Never leave your TV on when you are not watching it; Allow your lamp time to cool before turning it back on (5 minutes to be safe); Allow your lamp to reach it's optimal temperature before turning it off (20 minutes to be safe).

Now that we have that mess cleared up, on to the discovery section of this article: "How can I tell if my lamp is bad?"

Well, in most cases, there are warning signs: Picture is getting much darker; Seems fine at first, but then goes out and comes back on in a moment; Turns off after a period of time or doesn't light at all; I heard a loud pop. All of these are classic warnings or indicators that your lamp may need some attention.

You should allow your TV is cool for about 20 minutes and pull out wall plug and then remove the lamp for inspection. You will need a well lit area to get a good look at it. Do a once over: Did the bulb burst; Does it look smoked up? If it looks good, have a glance at the base of the burner:

e3feb05.jpg

Does it have a smokey mark on one side? This is the contamination from the burner gap. This contamination builds up throughout the life cycle of the lamp. As the burner gap grows, the lamp resists the electricity that is be pushed to it to make it burn. This resistance creates heat. Some lamps will create so much heat that the glass surrounding the burner will begin to melt and swell. You may look into your lamp and see a big silvery blob protruding from this area. These are all clear indicators of trouble in the works.

Unfortunately, some lamp show no visual signs at all... for these, you can only replace them and hold your breathe.

I hope you are able to use this information to better guide your lamp purchasing decisions. Let me know it this was helpful.

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This is not good, the magnetron is arcing because there is exposed metal. The manufacture provides a special enamel white paint that insulates the interior to prevent this. I would contact GE or appliance repairman and not use the oven until this is dealt with, running the microwave unchecked will eventually burn out the magnetron.

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Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good "blue" arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.

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Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
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