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Panasonic Whisper Warm Heater Thermal cutoff. How to reactivate?

Our Panasonic Vent/Heater/Room Light/ Nitelight was professionally installed about a year ago. It has functioned flawlessly...until now. The heater was left on for apparently too long, and the thermal cutoff switch has stopped the heater from turning back on. The owner's manual is no help--it just has info on the proper installation. Is there a way to "reactivate" the switch? I see no switch inside the unit when I removed the cover, so I don't know whether the swich is designed to be replaced, like a one-time fuse.

Looking forward to an answer--the bathroom is getting COLD in the morning!

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  • urnojfk Jan 10, 2009

    I have the same problem.  Just wondering how you know it's the thermal cut-off vs the 20amp fuse that is also part of the heater unit.  My initial thought was that the fuse had blown.

  • jmpinwa May 15, 2009

    Ditto. Had it for 7 months before the heater just stopped working. Panasonic does not provide support - and they require an electrician's note before they will honor the warranty. We're about to rip the unit apart to check the thermal cutoff and the 20a fuse. Will let you know if we figure it out.

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I had the same problem and mine was cause by a blown fuse. It's not too hard to fix. Remove the cover by pulling down and squeezing the wire arms on each side. You need a VERY long screwdriver to remove the entire motor/fan/light assembly from the housing (8 screws total). Place the assembly on the floor and look for the fuse on top. The fuse is on the motor, not near the heater portion. It is a ceramic, not glass, cylindrical fuse, 20 amps, 125 volts. This fuse is sold as a microwave oven fuse & costs about 2 bucks at a hardware store. Replace, reinstall, and you're done.

Posted on May 21, 2009

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The dryer blew the thermal over load on the heater coil I replaced the over load and therostat and it blew the over load again. What should the ohms be on a good heater coil kenmore dryer model...


Hello, The ohms rating on the heat element should be appx.10-20 ohms. The reason a thermal cutoff would blow and the replacement also blow was a poor air flow issue, so to much heat was being retained in the heater housing. What ya would need to check is for lint build up in the lint filter housing and also a blocked or restricted vent tube.


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Dryer runs, no heat, element OK 10.5ohm, Hi limit thermostat .8 ohm, next one is thermal cutoff or operating thermostat, open no meter readings. Part # FSP 3399848 could this be my problem? Thank You


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Both the Thermal cutoff and the operating t-stat should have ZERO ohms resistiance 0.8 is fine but open on either they are bad

That part number you have listed is what ya would need..even if only the thermal cutoff is open replace both the thermal cutoff and high limit t-stat at the same time

also if the cycling t-stat is open replace it too...if its fairly modenr and hasa digital display the cycling thermostat is a thermister and at room temp that will be about 5.8 thousand ohms

if has timer the cycling t-stat will look like the high limit t-stat and should be closed

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Dryer tumbles, no heat, thermo fuse has been changed. Can it be the cycling thermostat or the heating element?


If you have changed the thermal fuse you may have a defective thermal cutoff (located at the top of the heater housing in the back). The thermal cutoff will come with the high limit thermostat located at the bottom of the heater and you should change both parts if the thermal cutoff is bad.
You can take both of the parts (the heater and the thermal cutoff) to a parts supplier to have them checked for continuity (they should both read "closed" if they are good).
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The first thing I would like you to do is get your model number from the dryer, it is located near the inside the of the dryer door. you need to make sure you have the right heater and thermal cutoff kit. The manufacture has more than one type of heater and thermal cutoff kit out, (( some will not work with others ))... Call another parts store or sears and make sure you have the correct parts !!

Most of the thermo cutoff kits have direction and if they are not making scence then the chance of you having the rong one is good !!!!!!!

If you remove the thermal cutoff from your origanal heater and then look at how many conetion pins are left. The new heater and old heater should be the same.

The most common heater is the 2 conection. But they made one with three. and if you have the one with three, it has to be replaced with the same one !!!

Without knowing the model of your machine, I cant tell you how to wire your machine.

I recomend you use the direction that came with the Cutoff kit.

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Kenmore 11062912100 lost heat changed thermal cutoff & TSTAT cleaned everthing has good airflow also checked timer switch 2 operating normally. any ideas


did you check the outside vent sometimes they clog up with lint and will not dry properly this is the vent that sits on the outside wall of your house when they clog up the warm air trying to escape is backed up and causes the dryer to think it is getting more heat than it needs this is not the one inside your dryer

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Verify 220 volts to the terminal block where the cord attaches.
Check the door switch for continuity.
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You may need a flashlight to see this fuse.

It most likely is the thermal fuse.
If so correct any vent blockage or you will blow another fuse.
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Panasonic Whisper Warm Installation


The vent fan must be exhausted into the outside air via a 4 inch flex duct, this may be difficult if installed in the wall!

Feb 20, 2009 | Panasonic WhisperWarm FV-11VHL1 Compact...

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HOW TO REPLACE A THERMAL CUTOFF ON ELECTRIC DRYER


you will need too take off your back panel of your dryer and the heater is on your right the thermal cutoff is on the left of the heater housing at the top and then there is a little white thermal cutoff on your blower housing in the bottom left of the dryer now if this is not how your dryer looks let me know cause there is several different style of kenmore dryers but this is the most common one

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Dryer wont heat


Your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is blown. It should read close to 0 ohms if good. In addition, it is highly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO. These parts are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of both parts.

BEFORE you replace anything make sure you check your dryer ventilation for clogs. Cleaning the lint screen is not enough as no lint screen captures 100 percent of the lint. Some lint always manages to end up in the vent line. This includes the blower fan housing INSIDE the dryer. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by clogged ventilation, leading to an overheat condition. In an overheat condition, the TCO will blow.

Some things to consider:

1. Are you pushing the dryer too far up against the wall? This lead to crushed or kinked dryer vent hoses which will result in overheating. Leave about a foot space between the back of the dryer and the wall to prevent this.
2. Does your dryer vent line run through an attic or crawl space? These types of configurations are notorious for creating choke points where lint can clog. This is either due to gravity in an attic configuration. Or, sags and kinks in a crawl space configuration. Frequent inspection and cleaning may be required.
3. Is your vent line excessively long? This can cause lint to back up because there isn't enough force from the blower fan to push it all out of the vent exhaust. The rule of thumb is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER a vent line, the BETTER.

I'm not trying to lecture you on something that may not be a problem with your dryer. I merely put this advice out as a precautionary to prevent you from purchasing parts, only to have them go bad prematurely because you weren't advised of what may be causing the problem. The TCO blows for a REASON. The reason is generally caused by an overheat condition. You need to figure out why.

I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.

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