Panasonic Whisper Warm Heater Thermal cutoff. How to reactivate?
Our Panasonic Vent/Heater/Room Light/ Nitelight was professionally installed about a year ago. It has functioned flawlessly...until now. The heater was left on for apparently too long, and the thermal cutoff switch has stopped the heater from turning back on. The owner's manual is no help--it just has info on the proper installation. Is there a way to "reactivate" the switch? I see no switch inside the unit when I removed the cover, so I don't know whether the swich is designed to be replaced, like a one-time fuse.
Looking forward to an answer--the bathroom is getting COLD in the morning!
Re: Panasonic Whisper Warm Heater Thermal cutoff. How to...
I had the same problem and mine was cause by a blown fuse. It's not too hard to fix. Remove the cover by pulling down and squeezing the wire arms on each side. You need a VERY long screwdriver to remove the entire motor/fan/light assembly from the housing (8 screws total). Place the assembly on the floor and look for the fuse on top. The fuse is on the motor, not near the heater portion. It is a ceramic, not glass, cylindrical fuse, 20 amps, 125 volts. This fuse is sold as a microwave oven fuse & costs about 2 bucks at a hardware store. Replace, reinstall, and you're done.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Hello, The ohms rating on the heat element should be appx.10-20 ohms. The reason a thermal cutoff would blow and the replacement also blow was a poor air flow issue, so to much heat was being retained in the heater housing. What ya would need to check is for lint build up in the lint filter housing and also a blocked or restricted vent tube.
If you have changed the thermal fuse you may have a defective thermal cutoff (located at the top of the heater housing in the back). The thermal cutoff will come with the high limit thermostat located at the bottom of the heater and you should change both parts if the thermal cutoff is bad. You can take both of the parts (the heater and the thermal cutoff) to a parts supplier to have them checked for continuity (they should both read "closed" if they are good). Good luck to you!
The first thing I would like you to do is get your model number from the dryer, it is located near the inside the of the dryer door. you need to make sure you have the right heater and thermal cutoff kit. The manufacture has more than one type of heater and thermal cutoff kit out, (( some will not work with others ))... Call another parts store or sears and make sure you have the correct parts !!
Most of the thermo cutoff kits have direction and if they are not making scence then the chance of you having the rong one is good !!!!!!!
If you remove the thermal cutoff from your origanal heater and then look at how many conetion pins are left. The new heater and old heater should be the same.
The most common heater is the 2 conection. But they made one with three. and if you have the one with three, it has to be replaced with the same one !!!
Without knowing the model of your machine, I cant tell you how to wire your machine.
I recomend you use the direction that came with the Cutoff kit.
did you check the outside vent sometimes they clog up with lint and will not dry properly this is the vent that sits on the outside wall of your house when they clog up the warm air trying to escape is backed up and causes the dryer to think it is getting more heat than it needs this is not the one inside your dryer
Verify 220 volts to the terminal block where the cord attaches.
Check the door switch for continuity.
Check the thermal fuse on the right hand side of the heating element just below where the heater wires connect.
You may need a flashlight to see this fuse.
It most likely is the thermal fuse.
If so correct any vent blockage or you will blow another fuse.
The fuse comes in a kit including the hi-limit switch.
Replace them both.
you will need too take off your back panel of your dryer and the heater is on your right the thermal cutoff is on the left of the heater housing at the top and then there is a little white thermal cutoff on your blower housing in the bottom left of the dryer now if this is not how your dryer looks let me know cause there is several different style of kenmore dryers but this is the most common one
Your Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) is blown. It should read close to 0 ohms if good. In addition, it is highly recommended that you replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO. These parts are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of both parts.
BEFORE you replace anything make sure you check your dryer ventilation for clogs. Cleaning the lint screen is not enough as no lint screen captures 100 percent of the lint. Some lint always manages to end up in the vent line. This includes the blower fan housing INSIDE the dryer. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by clogged ventilation, leading to an overheat condition. In an overheat condition, the TCO will blow.
Some things to consider:
1. Are you pushing the dryer too far up against the wall? This lead to crushed or kinked dryer vent hoses which will result in overheating. Leave about a foot space between the back of the dryer and the wall to prevent this.
2. Does your dryer vent line run through an attic or crawl space? These types of configurations are notorious for creating choke points where lint can clog. This is either due to gravity in an attic configuration. Or, sags and kinks in a crawl space configuration. Frequent inspection and cleaning may be required.
3. Is your vent line excessively long? This can cause lint to back up because there isn't enough force from the blower fan to push it all out of the vent exhaust. The rule of thumb is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER a vent line, the BETTER.
I'm not trying to lecture you on something that may not be a problem with your dryer. I merely put this advice out as a precautionary to prevent you from purchasing parts, only to have them go bad prematurely because you weren't advised of what may be causing the problem. The TCO blows for a REASON. The reason is generally caused by an overheat condition. You need to figure out why.
I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you require additional assistance.
In most dryers there are two thermal fuses and two thermostats. If the vent hose was restricted it is most likely that the thermal fuse on the heater assembly has failed . The fuse and thermostat come as a set in that in most cases the thermal fuse blows as a result of the thermostat failing.
The second set of a thermal fuse and thermostat is located on the air exiting the drum closest to the vent and control the drum air temperature. A qualified repair person can easily with power disconnected check these for devices and the one that is open at room temperature needs to be replaced.
Hope this helps?
Components in blue box are the thermal cutoff fuses
Parts below are used in the heater assembly to control the heater maximum temperature. If the thermal cutoff fails the thermostat is also replaced. These parts come as a set.