Hi first we have to find where the leak is comming from ,so you will have to remove the cover,secondly is the leak just from an external fitting?if so then you can see the problem and a simple adjustment or removal to re seal can be done ,if the leak appears to be from the pump head joint then the head will have to be removed and a replacement gasket fitted however i reccomend that if this is done then a new valve set be fitted at the same time
hope this helps ian
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Sources of noise from craftsman oil free compressors (could be Made by Campbell Hausfeld or Porter Cable) include loose fan, failing bearing/s on the piston rod and housing, failing seal ring on piston, air filter intake and loose motor mounts. With the housing cover off, check the fan blade for cracks or loose screw. Turn motor by hand till the piston is at top of stroke. Examine the cylinder for scratches close to top. If scratched, air is leaking past vinyl ring making noise and causing longer fill time. If everything looks ok, suspect noise coming from bearings. Hard to tell if bearings are failing by looking at them. I have seen many failures of the piston bearing on the crank (fairly easy to change, I use alternator bearing from auto parts ) , however, the bearing in the housing just behind the crank bearing is much harder to replacable. Good luck with your fix-it project.
This sounds like a problem with you check valve. This should seal after the air compressor shuts down but if there is a problem with the check valve then it will allow the air to escape back out from the take.
Here is a link to the parts breakdown: http://shoppingcart.msservicecompany.com/msservice_net/product_files/C2002-WK/C2002-WK%20PD.pdf
The real question is where exactly is the leak coming from. Compressors have a pressure release valve designed to let the pressure off of the compressor motor so it can start when there is pressure in the tank. This valve is often the culprit and fairly easy to replace. You can order it direct from porter-cable online. Just in case double check the drain petcock sometimes these get worn and won't close completely and can easily be over looked when trouble shooting.
Sounds like the same problem. My compressor would run and pressurize to 125# but no air out the outlet. Turning the pressure reguator knob did nothing. If this is the same then here is my fix which worked great. Before you start bear in mind a new reg is under $20. Make sure the compressor has no air in it. Remove the regulator. Take a needle nose and remove the plastic insert gently from the bottom and inside of the reg. Take out the pressure spring. You should see a threaded shaft and a "c" clip. If there is no washer on the end then what is taking place is when you turn the knob in for more pressure it simply goes down through the center of the spring and exerts no pressure on the plastic insert which applies pressure to the valve. Thus no pressure. I simply removed the "c" clip, placed a generic washer placed on the end. The hole of the washer should allow it to sit on the end of the threaded end without going down the shaft and center protruding an 1/8" or so. Naturally the washer should easily fit inside the regulator housing. Now slip the "c" clip back on, back it out the knob all the way( don't force) and reassemble. Have no idea what is suppose to be in there from the factory but the problem was when I took mine apart there was nothing pushing on the spring which pushes on the nylon plastic insert which regulates the air at the outlet. Good Luck Bob F.
hi buddy the pipe that comes from the pump to the tank connects to a non return valve (pic below) on the tank unscrew the end of this and turn the rubber around inside and try this get back to me if no difference