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Re: not reaching temp
Those buttons your talking about are calle hi-limits.they pop when the temp inside the booster goes above 215 degrees.does it happen every time after you reset them or just occasionally?the water temp going to the unit should not exceed 150 degrees.if the water is hard in your area the booster may be clogged and therefore causing your problem.how old is your unit?
On the machine that we have, there are two push button switches in line for the heater tank. One is on the front of the tank and the other is around the right side. I have always called them clicks-on's but.. they are red in color and need to be rested if ever they get to hot. Be sure to relise that they did infact pop for some resone. Did the tank for some resone run dry?
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Do you realize that to sanitize with hot water alone requires 180 degree F water? I am a hobart technician and I've never seen any business or residence with hot water anywhere near that. Residential hot water is generally approx. 120, Commercial locations generally use approx. 140, but never near 180 (tap water that hot would be a severe safety problem). Hobart LXIH machines use a built in booster heater to boost the temperature of the incoming hot water up to the required 180 deg.
The rinse temp only reaches 180 degrees for a couple of seconds towards the end of the cycle. This will sanitize all warewash and meets most health code regulations. The rinse water temp will drop rapidly as it is incorporated in to the machine and sprayed on the dishes.
no, no home d/w will ever sanitize dishes, to sannitize dishes the rinse water has to be @180 degrees or above , only 1 d/w had that capability which was the old kitchenaidmod. which hobart produced for them
the water level is low (should cover the bottom of the tank about a 1/4")and the pump is starving - therefor probably not washing very well.
three things to check
1. check braided fill hose for kinks (you will have to pull the machine out if under a counter). run the machine while pulled out if possible to ensure its not kinking when you push it in.
2. pressure reducing valve-prv (if installed) on the incomming water line before the braided hose (probably under a sink). turn the screw on top clockwise to increse pressure.
TURN THE BREAKER OFF TO DO THE FOLLOWING!!
3. flow regulator (if installed) - installed under the bottom pannel at the end of the braided fill hose (about 2" long and silver). turn off water. you can simply remove it, drill out the centre or just remove the rubber peice inside.
inrease the temp by adjusting the thermostat on the right side under the bottom pannel in front of the booster.(dail is hard to see and breaker must be turned off)
remember - the machine must be turned on for several minuets to truly get up to temp.
Look on the top edge of the door to find the data plate. It sounds like an SR24, if the leds are on the left of two temp gauges. If your sanitizer pump has a tired silicone tube that is flattened from use, it will not draw chemical. if you have an air bubble in the sense board at the back, it will think you have run out. If you have changed the type of chemical or diluted it, the board will need recalibrating to suit. Put some sanitizer in a small vessel with the pickup tube and monitor the amount delivered. Usually one is looking for 50 ppm solution of bleach and rinse water.( test with litmus paper) If you have an SR24H with a booster, you don't need bleach sanitizer and holding the sanitizer button will turn the sense off.
what temp is it washing at. washing should not be the problem. This machine is designed to rinse at 180 degrees + to sanitize dishes. The machine could be converted to a chemical sanitize, it would use bleach in the rinse water instead of 180 degree water to sanitize.
Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.
Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.
The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.
On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.
By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.
You don't need an additive.
The sanitized LED itself is probably out.
It will not light up if the sensor doesn't sense that the water has reached 155 F. If the dishes are getting clean, I assume the heater is working properly. You could have a failed sensor, but you would usually notice longer than normal wash times and the dishwasher getting hotter than usual.
Alternately press heat dry and hi temp scrub 4 times. This puts washer into diagnostic mode. The first thing that happens is all the LED's light up. If it lights up then it is ok and the problem is somewhere else.
If these instructions don't apply to your machine, please post the complete model number from the decal just inside the front of the tub and I will look it up for you.