Question about Dryers

2 Answers

Does not heat, air blows, drum tumbles.

No heat, air blows, drum tumbles.
From inside to outside the air path is lint free.
I'm pretty sure now the heating element needs replacing.
How do I take dryer panel(s) off to replace the heating element?

Other info:
FYI: In the past I had a Kenmore, the heating element is very easy to access and replace.


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  • casadecogan Dec 27, 2008

    I have the same problem. My Amana dryer tumbles, blows air but no heat. My clothes are tumbling around and still not dry after over an hour? I have removed all the lint and even removed lint from the rear of the dryer. Can anyone give advice

  • Barry Coates
    Barry Coates May 11, 2010

    What make and model is dryer plz?

  • Thomas F. Schneider May 11, 2010

    And this brand, though not a Kenmore ,the brand and and model is a ...?

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What is brand and model #??

Posted on Sep 28, 2017

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  • Dryers Master
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Then DIY we do not read minds as to MAKE

Posted on Sep 28, 2017

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SOURCE: tumble dryer starts then stops after 5 mins and wont restart

the thermostat near the element is your high-limit shut off fuse. look for other and change it, it would be your cycling thermostats. Your dryer is not cycling and the one you changed is doing exactly what it is suppose to do, saving you a fire. basically your dryer is overheating.

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SOURCE: GLER331AS2 BLOWS COLD AIR

Just use my simple GUIDE

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Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: The dryer tumbles, but doesn't heat

It is a breker in the dryer and you can reset it yourself and het it fixed and drying. Hre is how you can do it...
If you lift off the top by prying it up in the 2 front corners with a flat tip screw driver it will lift up to the back and then take out the 2 top front screws.There are 2 screws in the front off the lint catcher that you get to by opening the front door take them out and then the front off the dry comes off. Then you have to look at the heating tube (where the gas is ignited and the fire burns, which is in the bottom of the dyer under the drum) on the sides of the tube are sensors that are in holes in the tube, There is one that is on the side of the tube on the inside towards the middle of the dryer, it has 2 wires connected to it and in between the 2 wires where they connect to the sensor is a very small button which is a breaker. Push the button in and the gas will start to ignite again and you will get heat in the drum. I am not sure why this does this but it will happen more and more if it starts to happen, so you will start to get used to taking the front off. A service man showed me this after his 3rd trip within days to my house after I asked him how he was fixing it so fast without replacing anything. This was within a year of purchase... I am acually going to replace the switch to see if this will stop it from tripping like it does now which sometime can be as much as in between every load or can go for weeks with no problem....I have the matching pair of LG Front Loading Washer and Dryer which were very expensive and although they do a great job when working it is when they are working that is the problem. Since being new in 3 years both have broken numerous times including this self repairing pain in the *** problem which you are just starting to go thru. I have just gotten done fixing the washer for the 5th time by installing a sensor on the motor to keep the drum spinning this is 2nd one and I can't even tell you how many other repairs I have done. But I can telll you I can take apart to pieces by memory both of them in minutes from doing it so much and for the money spent this should not be this way. You should not have to spend a couple thousand dollars on a washer and dryer and have to become a repair man for the LG company just to get your wash done but yet this is what hapeened to me and it isnt right..LG was great the first few times with service calls but would not replace them and after a while you get sick of waiting for service and just start fixing it yourself, it is just easier and faster...wish I would of bought something else, :-(.....I have had $400 washers ans dryers that lasted 15 years with no problems that did as good a job as these......:-(

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Runs, heats and tumbles but the clothes do not

Your first clue to your problem is the lint accumulation. You may want to check the dryer interior cabinet and/or the entire exhaust duct run to ensure you have no clogs anywhere. The following link explains many of the problems that can cause poor drying efficiency and longer dry times:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

Before assuming you have a problem with the appliance, check your installation to ensure you are providing the dryer with proper exhaust and air flow. A dryer in a clogged state or having improper air flow will not dry efficiently and will cause the heating circuits to actually overheat. Eventually, this can lead to component failures and is the source of fire hazards.

If you have any questions, please post back an let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Apr 26, 2010

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1 Answer

My candy tumble dryer gov218-80 blows just cold


Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE




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Oct 04, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

How can I diagnose, isolate and repair my Amana, NED7200TW dryer it runs but will not heat?


Since you say it happened gradually seems like it's not the heating element. If that's functioning properly you should see the orange glow inside the dryer when running. If your dryer does not have a glass door you can keep the dryer running by holding the button in. Look on the door, at some point you should see something that makes contact and pushes a switch on the frame. You can trick it by manually closing the switch. Be careful. I would suspect the trouble is a clogged lint exhaust. Over time this will fill with lint preventing the moist air to escape. This is how the dryer works. The hot wet air in the drum needs to vent outside to dry the clothes. When this becomes clogged you have nowhere for the moisture to go. So it stays in the drum and runs and runs without drying clothes. Also make sure you clean out the lint trap after each use. Clean the entire vent path. Also make sure you are venting outside. If not, you are just recirculating wet moist air back into the dryer. When working properly, you should feel a good flow of warm wet air at the outside vent. If not there is still a clog. Good luck.

Sep 05, 2014 | Amana Dryers

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Creda compact 3 37301 tumble dryer pull down door. Not heating only rarely, have changed the element. It heated a little while but starts blowing cold air. Drum is working and fax at back


I would suspect thermal fuse, easiest way to test is to tape wires together and start dryer. Safety note if left like this it will start a fire. It is located on the back of the dryer and has two wires connected to it. Here is a website that will help:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

Usually, failure of a thermal switch is caused by extreme heat: meaning that the dryer is not venting properly, clean dryer of lint inside and outside as well as the vent tube. Good Luck Tim

Dec 16, 2010 | Dryers

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It takes forever to dry a load of clothes. Drum


Hello,
Have you checked your vent for blockage? Over time, lint build-up in the vent and in the back of the dryer makes your drying time longer and longer. Unplug the dryer, pull it out and disconnect the vent. Using a flashlight and a vacuum, clean out the back of the dryer that connects to the vent and the vent itself. If you have a long vent line, you'll need to find a away to clean it out to clear any blockage. I use a hand-held plumbers snake that rolls up and pulls out as much length as needed. Then spin it around in the vent to knock off lint attached inside the vent tube walls. It may be easier to do this from the outside, but you can do it from the inside too. Check your outside vent cap for blockage and make sure the vent flap outside is not stuck closed. Also make sure when you push the dryer back into place, that you don't squish the vent tube, if it is made of plastic or foil. After reconnecting the vent, turn on the dryer. The air flow may blow out the lint you have dislodged with the snake. Clean out as necessary at the outside vent. I have a long vent line on my dryer, so I have do this annually. This has helped shorten my dry time every time I do it. Of course, cleaning out the filter regularly, does help too. The more often you clean the filter, the less lint that will build up in the vent . Hope this helps. Douglas

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No air flow is due to a restriction due to lint build up. Pull the lint filter and look closely at it. Sometimes the filter gets a residue from dryer softener sheets that can cause lint to stick to the screen and block air flow. To remove wash it with a mild detergent and use a gentle brush on it.

If that is clear then the restriction is further inside the dryer or in the vent pipe between the dryer and wall or the pipe that goes from the wall to the outside. You may have to take off the vent hose and turn the dryer on to see if air blows out the back of the dryer for a few seconds. If air blows there then the problem is in the house venting and you need to have that cleaned.

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you just might need a clean out,unplug the dryer take out the filter,remove the bottom panel and remove the duct that the filter slides into,clean it out and vac out the inside of dryer,if you have a shop vac that blows on the other end blow the lint forward so you don't have to pull the drum to clean the inside,make sure you blow off the motor alot of lint gets stuck inside the motor,now go to the back and remove the vent line,if it's a long run i use a leaf blower to blow all the lint out of the vent line,first make sure nothing is blocking the outside vent so when you blow out the line the lint is free to exit outside,all the thermostats run off of heat and if the dryer is blocked and the air can't move it will run hotter than normal,the timer can't opperate correctly either.all this will cost you is time and this should be done once a year anyway

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Is the dryer tumbling? If not, you may have a broken belt or some other drive assembly issue.

Also, turn the dryer on and go outside to the vent discharge - you should feel air coming out at a pretty good clip. If not, the vent line is obstructed and will need to be cleaned out.

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My dyer heats and tumbles, but doesn't dry


I'd check first for clogged vent hose or clogged lint filter or clogged vent flap on wall (outside).

If that's not a problem, it may be a faulty thermostat. Heating element is probably okay if it heats some of the time.

More info, let me know.

Charlie

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It's call a bad thermal cut-out. You should have a thermal cut-out and a high limit thermostat located adjacent to the heating element (usually mounted right on the heating element housing). They both should read a short or fairly low resistance in the case of the thermostat. If the thermal cut-out is blown it is not a resettable device and must be replaced. The tco is usually sold along with the high limit thermostat. It is HIGHLY recommended that you replace BOTH at the same time. DO NOT attempt to bypass any of these devices either. They are there as safety devices to prevent overheating. You could end up with a fire if you do. Now...with all that said, the tco will blow for a reason. Not cleaning the lint trap will contribute to it, but the big item is the ducting. If the vent ducting is clogged you will experience longer dry times and eventually the tco will trip again. Take the time to THOROUGHLY clean and/or replace your vent ducting from the wall all the way to the vent opening outside. In addition, while you have the dryer open THOROUGHLY clean the inside as well. This includes the air baffle where the blower fan is located. Rule of thumb: if you have lint INSIDE the dryer, it's clogged somewhere. Good luck and I hope this helps you.

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