Question about Maytag MTF2156GEW Top Freezer Refrigerator
The hinge that lies between the freezer door and the refrigerator door is broken. When I open the refrigerator door, the freezer door pops open and both doors open and bend outward in the middle. Is this part replaceable and if so, what part is it? I checked the www.maytag.partstore.com site but, there aren't any images of the part there.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Refrigerator leaking water
This sounds like the water line from the icemaker and the cool water reservior inside the refridgerator side. The line is a rigid plastic hose and could be a leak at one point that is small enough to allow water to run along the line. Also sounds like you have a humidity problem. Check the door seals and wipe them off and apply a thin coat of die-electric grease to the seal. this will help keep it pliable and soft.
The water in the bottom leaks into a trough that is made into the fridge. This usaully evaporates, This is for the auto-defrost. It keeps the water from getting on the floor.
Check to see if the outer door gets hot at the edges. If not, It may not be auto-defrosting.
I would first check the water line first as this seems to be a more serious issue right now. The line is probably loose at one of the connections between the ice maker and water reservior.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
Water is collecting on the bottom of the freezer and freezes then it becomes so much it starts to leak out side the freezer door. get about 1/4" thick. Is there a leak some where? Take about 2 days to form.
Posted on Jun 18, 2009
I believe looking over the service manual that white is the common. and it should be the one to test the keyboard before the keyboard plugs into the control board. If you would like the service manual please let me know because it does show some test to eliminate the origin of the problem, Sea Breeze
Posted on Sep 11, 2009
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Your freezer has a drain that leads to the exterior drain pan beneath the unit. Occasionally this drain can become clogged resulting in standing water inside your freezer,due to line freeze over. This can, also, cause a run-off, as stated in your post. In the freezer, standing water will become ice and may result in defrost problems or inadequate coldness.
You will need to Clear the drain by forcing a solution of water and bleach or water and baking soda into the drain line with a basting syringe. If the solution will not flow through, slide a length of ¼ inch flexible tubing into the drain tube to push the clog through to the drain pan. Remove the tubing after clearing the clog. This will correct the issue.
The drain is located either on the floor of the refrigerator, beneath the vegetable crisper, or in the wall behind a drain funnel.
NOTE_It is important for the refrigerator to be level. If it is not level, doors may not open or close properly and may not seal tightly. Also, drainage from the defrost cycle might be impaired as might the ice making cycle. The appliance was engineered based on it being installed in a level position. While there may be some tolerance for out-of-level installation, the appliance will operate at its best when properly leveled.
Place a level on top of the refrigerator near the front. Do not put it on the door because the door may not be aligned with the refrigerator case. Check that the refrigerator is level from side to side. Next turn the level to check that it is level from front to back.
If it is not level, adjust one or more of the adjustable leveling feet until it is level. The feet are bolts that can be turned to raise or lower the refrigerator. If they cannot be adjusted with your fingers, use a crescent wrench or pliers.
If you have an ice-maker, it should also be checked for level after first leveling the refrigerator. An ice-maker that is out of level will spill water into the ice bin or into the freezer. It can be repositioned by loosening the mounting screws, adjusting it for level and then re-tightening the screws.
Posted on Dec 13, 2009
Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly.
In the fresh food compartment center overhead within about 6 inches of the front of the unit there is a circular hole. Inside that hole you will see a dial with 2 tabs on it. Use your thumb or a squared off utensil and rotate the tabbed dial slowly until you hear an audible "CLICK" The refrigerator should stop running and the defrost cycle begins.
After 45 minutes (+ or - 10 mins) the compressor should start again. Once the compressor starts, check both the evaporator fan in the freezer compartment and the condenser fan in the bottom rear of the unit to make sure they are turning at full speed.
If the compressor does NOT after 90 minutes re-start, rotate the defrost timer tabs of the dial in the overhead of the fresh food compartment until you hear it start again. The fact that the compressor did not start in under 90 minutes indicates a defrost circuit problem.
A slow running evaporator fan or condenser fan will cause poor cooling. Also in the back of the unit, check the right side of the condenser coils for lint / hair build up. If it is blocked the front outside chassis of the freezer section will be very warm almost hot to the touch. Clean as needed with a vacuum if you do find any lint buildup.
Once more thing is to check the ice maker. Quickly touch the bottom of the ice maker. If it is VERY hot to the touch then there is a problem with the ice maker itself and the mold heater can cause your freezer to warm up and overall unit performance to degrade.
A complete checkout of the ice maker can be found here: http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=12&newsdesk_id=34
Your parts can be found here:
Scrolling the left side of the page will access all sections of the unit.
Thanks for using FixYa.
It sounds as if you have an automatic defrost problem.
Posted on Jun 13, 2010
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