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Carrier 58pav. Igniter wont shut off.

Is it normal for igniter to glow all the time?

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Yes it is

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

  • rfrankel57 Dec 13, 2010

    of course not...its only hot to ignite gas during a heating seq.

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LG DLG7188WM gas dryer is not igniting


There are 3 things that will make a gas dryer not ignite. 1. the main controller 2. high limit thermostat, which disconnects power to the igniter if the dryer overheats 3. the electronic or electric igniter. There are 2 types of igniters static that sounds like a ticking noise before it lights and a thermal that glows red hot to ignite the burner. Most dryers will attempt to ignite 3 times and will shut down if the burner does Not ignite to keep unburned gasses from being expelled.
With the front cover off also called the kick pan, look at the burner assembly and you will either see the spark igniter (like a giant spark plug) or the thermal igniter glow red hot. If the igniter does not activate, and the drum is turning, it is either the igniter, or the high limit thermostat stuck in the open position and needs to be replaced.
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Why will my carrier model 58PAV075-JV not light the burner when the hot igniter glows but will not start


Could be a weak igniter, it the igniter does not get hot enough it will not ignite the gas. Make sure the gas valve is opening to allow gas to the burners, if not the gas valve is the problem

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Maytag oven will not heat, no gas flow. Broiler works, clock and timer works.


Hi,

You may even see the orange "glow plug" (called a hot surface igniter) glowing orange and so assume that it's OK. Not necessarily!! You have to measure the current/amp drawn by the igniter and compare it to this repair sheet before you can say it's OK or not. The gas valve has a bi-metal that open when a certain amount of current flows through it to heat it up. The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. As the igniter gets older or weaker, it's resistance increases to the point where not enough current is flowing to the gas valve bimetal to open it up. As a result, the gas valve never opens up. BTW, a common symptom of the early stages of this problem is erratic temperature control in the oven due to delayed firing of the bake burner while cooking.

The hot surface igniter will not come on - check igniter with a ohm meter, you should have continuity through the glow bar, the glow bar can also crack = new igniter time. The glow bar comes on but the main burner will not light - you should have an amp probe to check properly, but often this is a hot surface igniter problem. The hot surface igniter often looses it's ability to get hot enough to open the gas safety valve. The safety valve can fail, but most times it is just a bad hot surface igniter. The hot surface igniter can also quit part way through cooking , in other words the oven may cycle a couple of times and then it just sits there with the red glow from the igniter. See this service sheet for the proper way and amp readings for the hot surface igniter system. Hot surface igniters do weaken and will eventually generate less heat than they normally could. When this happens they can still allow marginally correct current to flow to the oven gas valve for it to open but not get quite hot enough to ignite the gas burner immediately. When this happens, gas released into the oven can sometimes build up to the point where when finally ignited, the amount of gas lit can cause a small explosion inside the oven or cause an odor of gas with out the oven working. Yes, your glow bar igniter can glow orange-red and still be bad!! How a common gas valve works - click here.



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Burner ignites and runs for for several minutes (normal), my or may not reignite later. Unsure if it is not calling for heat or not reigniting. Vent is clean as a whistle. Normally use sensor dry vs timed...


Hello,

Depending on your brand and model down on the bottom of the front panel is a piece you can take off and look in and see the burner asm. If at first you see the glow of the igniter, followed by a flame then once the flame cuts off a few minutes later the igniter glows but no flame, the coils that open the gas valve wont open to allow gas flow when they are warm, and need to be replaced.

Gene

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The oven does not stay an even temperature and there is a gas smell. The broiler works fine! Only the oven....


By the parts diagram, it looks like you have a glow coil type igniter . Generally when the oven wont keep temperature, the igniter is failing to reignite the burner. The burner comes on till it reaches temp then shuts off until the temp falls below a certain temp then comes back on until it reaches temp again and so on and so forth. Most of the time the igniter has a very small crack in it and doesn't begin to fail until it cycles several times. I would check the igniter and the safety valves and coils on the valve

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The igniter glows and the burner starts but shuts down after abou


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2 Answers

Oven wont light


When the bake igniter becomes weak or burns out, your oven would not bake. The bake igniter is usually mounted on the oven burner. It's about 1 inch by 4-8 inches (depending on the model), and comes in round or flat styles. If you don't see the igniter glow at all, it's probably burned out. Replace the igniter if found defective. Note: one of the exceptions could be that your oven is set to automatic mode instead of manual. If this is the case, set your oven to manual mode and check again.

If the bake igniter glows red and not bright yellow or white, it is probably because it is too weak. When this happens, the safety valve would not let the gas out into the oven burner. A weak igniter must be replaced.

A faulty igniter is probably the most common cause, however there are others:

-- defective thermostat
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1 Answer

After a few heating cycles the burner does not ignite


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