Water supply line vibrates making very loud noise.
I have a Kenmoore Elite Quiet Guard 5, the water copper supply line from the valve under the sink to the dishwasher vibrates making a very loud noise. I have a hammer arresting valve under my sink that is supposed to eliminate vibration in the supply line that is caused by the solinoid on the dishwasher. I'm fairly certain that the water supply valve is secure inside the wall--it does not move when I pull/push on it.My thinking is that the problem lies in the dishwasher supply line somehow. Will replacing the copper supply line with a flexible stainless steel supply line reduce/eliminate vibration? Is vibration caused because the solinoid on the dishwasher is going bad?
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I see that you are trying to hook up and start the ice maker on your Frigidaire refrigerator, model# FRS3R5EMB.
To connect Water supply Line to ice Maker inlet valve:
1 Disconnect your refrigerator from the electric power source.
2 Place the end of water supply line into sink or bucket. Turn ON water supply and flush supply line until water is clear. Turn OFF water supply at shutoff valve.
3 Remove plastic cap from water valve inlet and discard cap.
4 If you use copper tubing - Slide brass compression nut, then ferrule (sleeve) onto water supply line. Push water supply line into water valve inlet as far as it will go (1/4 inch/6.4mm). Slide ferrule (sleeve) into valve inlet and finger tighten compression nut onto valve. Tighten another half turn with a wrench; DO NOT over tighten.
If you use stainless steel tubing - The nut and ferrule are already assembled on the tubing. Slide compression nut onto valve inlet and finger tighten compression nut onto valve. Tighten another half turn with a wrench; DO NOT over tighten.
5 With steel clamp and screw, secure water supply line (copper tubing only) to rear panel of refrigerator as shown.
6 Coil excess water supply line (copper tubing only) about 2 and 1/2 turns behind refrigerator and arrange coils so they do not vibrate or wear against any other surface.
7 Turn ON the water supply at shutoff valve and tighten any connections that leak.
8 Reconnect your refrigerator to electrical power source.
9 To turn the ice maker on, lower wire signal arm (side mounted) or set the ice maker's ON/Off power switch to the "I" position (rear mounted).
After connecting the water supply, you will need to prime the water supply system.
To Prime The Water Supply System:
1 Begin filling the tank by pressing and holding a drinking glass against the water dispenser paddle.
2 Keep the glass in this position until water comes out of the dispenser. There will be noticeable spurts and sputters as the system pushes air out through the system and dispenser nozzle. This is normal. This may take about 1 and 1/2 minutes.
3 Continue dispensing water for about 3 minutes to flush the system of any air and impurities. Empty the glass as needed.
The water dispenser has a built-in device that shuts off the water flow after 3 minutes of continuous use. To reset this shutoff device, simply release the dispenser paddle. Hope this is helpful.
Pull the machine out and remove the lower back cover. Locate the water valve. With the water turned on and connected remove the 5/16" water line (the bigger one) and then have someone else press the water in the door. If the cylinoid is operating correctly it should spray water out. If it is not operating properly it should at least hum and vibrate. If that does not occur your problem lies elsewhere. As far as the smaller line (1/4") you have to manually advance the ice maker and wait for it to call for water with the 1/4" line disconnected from the valve.
The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. First Check to see if the valve is getting water. Make sure it’s not clogged. There is a screen on the inside of the valve, this sometimes gets clogged up with debris. Check to see if you get power to valve when unit is put into operation may take a couple minutes to start a fill. If you have power and it’s not clogged up replace the valve .If you have no power to the water inlet valve check float switch. This can be done by checking the continuity. There is a video of this at www.appliancehelponline.com/servicemanual.html this will walk you checking the water inlet valve and the float switch. It may be a different model but the testing procedure will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations for most models.
Here are a few steps you can take to get your icemaker working (be sure the bail wire above the ice tray is in the down position):
1) If the icemaker doesn't make ice but you can see the arm swing into motion and you hear a buzz for about 10 seconds after it is finished, the water valve is asking for water that isn't arriving. This means the valve and the solenoid are probably okay, but the water supply is not. Be sure the water supply line isn't kinked behind or beneath the refrigerator (1/4-inch copper tubing is much better than plastic fill line).
2) Check to see if something has caused ice to back up around the mechanism—this can cause the fill tube to freeze, blocking the mechanism. When ice cubes are small and seem to be getting smaller, it generally indicates a frozen fill tube.
3) Check the water line that enters the back of the freezer for a blockage. Find the water shut-off valve behind the refrigerator or under the sink, turn it off, unscrew the copper line from the back of the refrigerator, put the copper line in a bucket, turn on the valve, and see if pressurized water pours out.
4) Check the tap valve; a bad tap valve may cause the problem where the icemaker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can do this yourself, or call a repairperson or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.
NOTE: The water line attaches to a solenoid at the back of the refrigerator, and then travels to the icemaker. The solenoid may be defective or may not be receiving power. You can try removing the sediment screen inside the solenoid and flushing it with water to clean it; be sure to inspect any seals or diaphrams. Unplug the refrigerator first.
You have too much water pressure it sounds like for the fill valve to operate properly. I am assuming it is chattering? How much water pressure do you have? If its too high an inexpensive regulator can be purchased at most plumbing supply stores to install in the DW supply line.
1. Locate the electrical service breaker for your appliance and turn it off at the breaker panel. If it is plugged in by a serivce outlet, unplug the unit.
2. Turn off the water source under the sink.
3. Disconnect the drain line under the sink.
4. Remove the lower panel under the dishwasher door.
5. Locate the small electrical junction box under the dishwasher and disconnect the wires leads. Remember, standard household wiring is as follows: BLACK (HOT - 110-120VAC), WHITE (NEUTRAL - 0VAC, GREEN (or bare copper) is GROUND. Make sure you reconnect the wires in this fashion with wire lug nuts. If you have a local outlet plug you may leave the wiring instact.
6. Locate the fill valve (Usually on the left hand side of the dishwasher). This is where the water supply line connects. Disconnect the water supply line from the fill valve.
7. The dishwasher should have a couple of mounting screws located where the top of the dishwasher cabinet meets the underside of the cabinet.
8. With everything removed, the dishwasher should now be free and slide out from under the cabinet.
Let me know if you have further questions. I hope this helps you.
NOTE: You can also remove the water supply line at the fitting under the sink if it makes things easier.
you an remove lower access panel run d/w and nextime it makes the noise grab a flashlight and take a look under. sounds like a vibration issue( especially since you hit it nad it stops) perhaps your copper water line is rattling or your drain line is hitting motor causing noise