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Tom Wolfe Posted on Dec 26, 2008

Intermittent On/Off Switch/Latch problem. Model DW 730

I have a Jenn - Air Model DW 730W. I'm experiencing a problem switching the machine On and then keeping it on. It seems like the switch is not quite engaging. When it does I have to stuff something under the latch to "hold" it in the On position. Any thoughts ?

Thanks in Advance.

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 9 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 20, 2008

SOURCE: Jenn-Air dishwasher: error code C2 and C1

This is not a JDB6510 Model. Check the inside label when you open the door.

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VtToolMan

Mark

  • 704 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 18, 2009

SOURCE: Jenn Air dishwasher door won't close

It could be as simple as the mounting tabs being too tight up against the bottom of the countertop. You might need to loosen the 2 screws that hold the dishwasher in place against the underside of the countertop, until the latch and strike plate engage.

It might be that the countertop is interferring with the latch or that the door edge doesn't have enough clearance to properly close and engage the latching tab.

If you can't get the latch to engage, it might be that it got bent slightly in the removal and reinstallation. A simple way to confirm this would be to pull the dishwasher out about 4-6" from the cabinet and see if the catch and latching tab line up and engage. If they do, then you need to make sure there is enough clearance around the cabinet edges and at the underside of the countertop. If it doesn't engage, then it is more likely that the tab (male part) needs to be adjusted slightly to allow for proper engagement. Make small adjustments (bending carefully up or down until it goes into the latch without binding.

You should be able to get this lined up with a little effort and have things working again.

Hope you found this Very Helpful and best regards!

Testimonial: "The advice got the door moving better, but I appears that the latch is broken and will have to be replaced."

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 17, 2009

SOURCE: Jenn Air dishwasher door won't close

i had the exact same issue. it's a broken latch mechanism, and is a fairly common problem.

i bought the part at my local repair shop for $45 (you can find it online for $30). it literally took 10 minutes.

you need to right size bit to remove the 10 bolts on the interior of the door. once you have those out, the latch slides right out of the top. there are 2 electrical connectors (careful - you can get a shock. disconnect the 2 connectors, reconnect to the new one, and zip your 10 bolts back in. super easy

Anonymous

  • 43501 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 23, 2010

SOURCE: Front of dishwasher leaking from sides.

Hi,
I think it is the seals...even though they look good they can be compressed and loose the eleasticity to swell and seal....

Here is a tip that I wrote about leaking dishwashers

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4546178-leaking_dishwasher

heatman101

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As I told a questioner, yesterday. Yes, I believe a kit is available. If you purchased this Jenn Air grill from Lowe's, it was manufactured by Nexgrill Industries. Not Jenn Air. In any event, Lowe's no longer sells the Jenn-Air line of grills. My very best advice is to contact Nexgrill Customer Service @ 800-913-8999. In addition to the burner orifice parts you'll have to have, you will also need a grill tank Hose/Regulator Assembly.

Hope this helps and Happy Grilling!
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Will not start after closing door, can select but does nothing when you push start. Acts if it is a sensor in the handle/latch assembly.

Here is a post I just sent to someone having similar issues. I copied just part of my solution. Hope it is helpful.

That was not to total solution in our case. I ended up ordering and replacing the door switch (a black plastic piece that is what the metal latch on the machine is supposed to "hook" into.
Replacing it is fairly simple. I did shut the power off for this. This part is replaced by taking off your face plate which is secured bu screws inside of your DW door around the edge. You will see 4 screws to remove and it "snaps" out. At this point you can see the working relationship with the latch, the switch and the contacts on the switch that the door latch (metal part coming out of the top of the DW) after replacing this...try the process again and hopefully your issue will be solved. I had to remove my latch and bend it back to the original shape and mess around with a slight bend to make it latch and hit the contacts in the door latch.
Apr 12, 2010 • Dishwashers
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F1-7 code

F7-E1 - Common Switch Wire Is Defective - This error occurs when common wire to latch switch and door switch is shorted.
Check all connections at control board and at the latch switch and door switch.
If connections are ok, then check individual switches as outlined for the F5 error code.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
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F9 is a door latch error. You have to check the door latching system for functionality
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What does ''F9'' on the dispay indicate? Does it have something to do with the oven lock?

Yes. F-9 codes are door latch failures. Either a bad latch motor or bad micro switch usually. Need a model number to be more specific.
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disassemble front door to get to the latch. Check if the latch is properly in place, sometimes the metal cylinder that hold it in place, slips out of position.
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JMC7000ADW Blows circuit breaker

I've had this problem twice with our microwave. The hint to where the problem lies is that the breaker blows when you open the door at times. Inside the microwave are three microswitches; primary and secondary interlock micro switches and an Interlock Monitor switch. The switches are supposed to shut down the microwave if it is running and the door is opened. But, I've found the upper primary switch can stick internal at times and when the door is opened the stuck switch will, because of the way it is wired as a safety switch, cause either the fuse or possibly the main circuit breaker for the oven to pop. The reason the stuck switch blows the breaker or fuse is when the door is opened the interlock switch will cause the neutral wire from the AC power to be applied to the Upper Primary Interlock switch which normally should be open when the door is opened, but if the switch is intermittent or the contacts weld themselves shut the neutral line is connected direct to the "hot" side of the power line through the fuse and thermostat. The first time my microwave failed the switch had melted the contacts together inside the switch and the second time the switch became intermittent and would blow the breaker to the over ever so often. I suspected the switch the second time this happened and utilizing an ohm meter I checked the switch several times by opening and closing the door and once in a while it would remain closed instead of opening when the door was opened. Of course while trouble shooting the power cord to the microwave must be disconnected and use all safety precautions when working around the high voltage areas inside the microwave. I wrote Jenn-Air about the bad switch and the way it is wired into the circuit, but never received any acknowledgement. I suspect these microswitches are under rated for the amount of current that passes through the switch, thus they overheat and eventually arc the contacts together. I hope this helps explain the intermittent problem and could explain many of the intermittent blown fuse problems I see in these internet help sessions
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Probably a broken latch assembly.. UNPLUG UNIT!! Remove inner door panel to access. Also check for broken tabs on onside of console where latch assembly rests.
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