I had the same problem last night and this morning. Its in the manual. I had to take the fan off of the back and vaccuum out all of the dust/lint that built up and it was a lot. It is a safety feature. It's a overheating protection feature that usually triggers if there is build up in the fan, front vent or vent pipe to the outside. I hope this helps.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
Re: mpi monitor 422 heat problem
Your stove has probably never been serviced. There is a good chance the burner mat and burner ring need to be serviced. The mat lifts up on a corner and the ring warps, both of which make the flame not get onto the flame sensor. This causes the stove to light and then turn off. It quits way before the fan circuit calls for circulation, so no fan in the back. You will probably have to get a dealer to service your unit or do it yourself.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Jimbo, it sounds like you are aware of the operational sequence to suggest using a voltmeter to check the actual wires going TO the combustion air fan...if there is no voltage from the board, the board is bad. Just make sure one of the high temp limits are not open... one may be in the blower compartment on some and one will be near the top of the vestibule and a roll out switch should be near the burners. They should all be wired in series.
Always check the manual reset safty switches as the first step in troubleshooting.
usually when you run out of oil,you need to bleed off air. there's a bleeder on pump looks like bleeder on a car brake cylinder.atach a piece of rubber hose and run to a bottle, open it up when pump is running till all you get is oil.
on most of goodman equipment they have on the door panel or on the actual label inside the furnace what that code actually means... the sequence of operation is as follows though...
the thermostat calls for heat if a digital thermost can take up to 5 minutes..once the call is made the enducer draft motor comes on located in the burner side(small fan) it will run for approx 20-30 seconds and then activates the negative pressure switch which is round and has a plastic tube coming from the enducer draft housing and connected to the pressure switch. the pressure switch once activated then will bring on the hot surface ignitor (porcelien glow plug looking device in behind burner assembly) once the hot surface ignitor gets red hot it milivolts back to the board are sent to the gas valve to open and light..there then should be a metal rod also behind the burner that senses the flame called a flame sensor and keeps the gas valve opened if current there. after heating up to temperature the blower motor should come on.there also is limit devices on the side of burners called roll out limits usually resettable by pushing the black buttons in the middle. there is a high heat limit going into cavity looks like cardboard with 2 prongs but if bad usually will keep fan running all the time there is also a blower limit attached to the blower motor housing that should be closed unless bad... unplug unit and watch it where does it fail/also look for code and repost if you need more help.
I would check all fuel lines, connections, and watch how long it takes to ignite. Kerosene heaters should atomize fuel meaning it should look like a fog not droplets, so that would point to fuel nozzle problems. That being said it should exhaust out side not in to the house, inspect the burning chamber real good for cracks or leakage? If this unit has a flue or damper make sure it has a good draft to exhaust the burnt fuel. This is purely speculation not a solution, these are things I would be looking for if it were in my home. Good luck
Mine is getting fuel, but it still clicks off like the original post stated, and its clean. The only other thing .. that water in the tubing. We get a TON of watered fuel here in Alaska! Damn oil venders.
I recently relocated monitor heater from living room to dining room and ran new line to heater. I have pressed the priming button located on right side and turn unit on, but all that happens is it will click on run for a cycle and burner never ignites and then turns itself off and burner indicator lights continue to blink on and off, I dont think it is getting proper fuel to unit. What do I need to do?
You have some kind of fuel problem. When you mention 5 gals of fuel, that leads me to think you need more fuel ( more pressure). If you have a large tank and only have 5 gals you may no have enough head pressure to push the fuel through the line and all the filters in the system. That being said the Monitor 30 is the oldest vented heater around. Parts have not been available for 15 years. The thing that scares me about the M30 is the flame safety circuit. I don't think it is adequate. If you rely on this heater to keep pipes thawed I would get a new Monitor or Toyo.
limit switch is on the heat exchanger black plastic about 1and1/2 in. by 2 in. with 2 wires going to it , it has 2 screws holding it in take it out and check it with an ohm meter and you should not have a reading if it is good
need to bleed air out of filter at oil tank crack open the screw on top it will bleed out air wait until oil starts to run out then tighten back and bleed at heater on right side lever inside hole push and let off slow 4-5 times and restart