I have a kenwood KR-V8080 and i had 4 subwoofers hooked up to it. then one day it jus shut off an smoked a little. now when i turn it on an try an hook up speakers it sparks an the speaker pops. i dont kno what to do to fix it.

SOURCE: aftermarket 6 x 9's

What type of car is it? You can purchase speaker harnesses at any car audio shop that will allow you to snap into the factory plugs. Also, beware if your system was designed for 8 ohm speakers - using 4ohm speakers instead could cause some problems. Most aftermarket stereos are designed for 4ohm speakers, but some factory stereos designed for 8ohms could be damaged if you give them a smaller ohm load.

SOURCE: Speakers are crackling

This could be caused by one of your speaher wires being shorted out to ground, OR one of the speaker terminals in the doors or rear coming into contact with metal. If you remove the unit and test it with the speakers hooked directly to the back of the unit and they do not crackle, then the unit is fine. If they still crackle - then you either have two diferent sets of bad speakers, Or more than likely the outputs of the kenwood have been damaged by an improper installation in the past.

SOURCE: subwoofer/speakers are hooked up to my amp but making bad noise

it sounds like you have some wires crossed or a bad ground
Hope this helps

SOURCE: Subwoofers pop then immediately produce no sound

Sounds like the two subs wired together might be too much of a load on the amp and it is shutting off. Try wiring the two subs in series. That will reduce the load on the amp but will conversely put out less power. Less is better than none though. In any case check your amp to see what the lowest ohm rating it can see, that ohm rating is where you want your subs and if faced with a choice of either going under (lower numerically) or over (higher numerically) GO OVER!-it is much safer.
Here's an article I wrote that can help explain how to wire the subs to the amp.

OHM LOADS, SUB WIRING, OHM RELATED POWER OUTPUT

SERIES SUBWOOFER WIRING
Wire the positive pole from one voice coil (using wire that is as thick or thicker than your wire from amp to sub) to the negative pole of the other voice coil (on the same sub). This will leave you with a positive pole from one voice coil and a negative pole from the other giving you the two leads that will be hooked up to the amplifier or other subs. When wiring in series, the ohms will go up numerically, and the load on the amp will go down. Almost all amplifiers power output will follow this rule, except some amps such as JL Audio's “Ohm matching” D Class amps.

PARALLEL SUBWOOFER WIRING
Wire the positive pole from one voice coil (using wire that is as thick or thicker than your wire from amp to sub) to the positive pole of the other voice coil (on the same sub). Then wire the negative to the negative in the same way. You can then wire to the amp or other subs. When wiring in parallel the ohms will go down numerically, and the load on the amp will go up. Almost all amplifiers power output will follow this rule, except some amps such as JL Audio's “Ohm matching” D Class amps.

MULTIPLE SUBS USING SERIES AND PARALLEL WIRING
In order to match your amplifiers ohm rating you can use parallel and series wiring together, just keep things even for power distribution and to avoid phase issues.
Example: I have two “Type X 12” subs” that have dual 2ohm voice coils and have to match my “Amplifier X” ohm rating of 2ohms mono. In this case, I would wire each subwoofer in series (giving me a 4ohm load), and then wire the two subs in parallel to get my 2ohm mono load. When wiring multiple subs just, treat each sub as a voice coil and wire accordingly.

POWER OUTPUT AND OHM LOADS
For example if “Amplifier X” can make 100watts@8ohms, it would make 200watts@4ohms and 400watts@2ohms. However with every drop in ohms the amplifier is put under more pressure. It starts to create a lot of heat, distortion figures begin to climb, damping rates drop, and some amps even throw power spikes when clipping. SO BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR AMPS RATING AND DO NOT EXCEED IT!

-Dynami

SOURCE: My PG Xenon 600 watt amp will not power my subwoofers

hello it sounds like your problem may be in the remote/power wire that goes from the back of your radio deck to the amplifier. the amp should have a wire connection that says remote,p.con, or antenna. and its usually the smallest wire connector located by the power and ground wire. this wire goes to the solid blue wire coming out of the deck. you can conect the wires together any way you want. i usualy shave off a little pice of the wire cover and wrap the wire coming from the amp around the bare wire then cover it in electical tape or cut the blue wire from the deck at a fit length and use a wire nut and put the two cut ends in and also the wire coming from the amp. also make sure the amplifire dose not have power to it just to be safe. wouldent want to fry anything.

There is also the left and right wires(ususaly red and white) that go on the back of the deck to the amp.

also chek the volume on the amplifire