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No memery on aftermarket radio

Its a 94 murcry couger

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The AC which is most likely the red wire on the receiver and the constant (yellow) must be together ... constant is what keeps the memory.. cross the red and yellow (make sure it is the constant before you cross) to the AC coming from the wiring harness.

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

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Radio not powering up


Factory or aftermarket? Check fuses (should be 2 usually one marked radio and one marked either cigar lighter or interior lights. If aftermarket make sure you have 12v on the memory wire (usually yellow) and ignition switched wire (usually red) as well as good ground on the usually black wire. If so then disconnect for a few minutes to reset

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This could be one of two issues. Since you aren't saying whether what brand stereo is is or model we can only conjecture at a possible cause.

1. The amplifier was over driven and went into self-protect. These usually self-correct, so it may not be the case here unless the amp is damaged.

2. The radio itself is in security mode. If the radio has a security feature (and most factory and some aftermarket units do), it power was interrupted to the unit it will lock up until an unlock code is entered. This is to prevent theft. If this is the case you need to locate and enter the unlock code to get the unit to work again. Factory units usually have a card in the vehicle literature from the dealer that gives the code. Aftermarket units provide the code with the packaging. If you don't have, didn't get, or lost this data, you'll need to contact a dealer for factory radios and find out what info you need to obtain to get the code. If it is an aftermarket unit, you will need to contact the manufacturer for the code.

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You will need a wiring harness for the model truck you have, plus a filler kit. The filler kit is what the radio will actually attach to and fill the space left by the factory radio. Follow the diagrams for wiring from the harness and the aftermarket radio. Generally, there are 8 wires to be connected for a four speaker system. In addition, you will connect a ground wire (black), a yellow wire (constant power), a red wire (this is to turn the radio on and off with the ignition), and a solid orange wire (illumination). Because you have a GM product you will also need an antenna adapter. All these things can be purchased at Best Buy, or WalMart.

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Hello ryan_jaime,

It's good that you have an aftermarket Mazda wiring harness. It will allow you to make all of the connections in a well-lighted and comfortable location rather than fumbling around behind the dash.

If you are somewhat skilled at soldering, the most secure, electrically conductive, and positively insulated splices are made with solder and heat-shrink tubing. You can get the needed equipment from any Radio Shack, Lowe's or even WalMart. Be sure to put the heat-shrink tubing on the wires BEFORE you solder them together. I had to say that! Because I've forgotten many times! But if the soldering route is not for you, get properly sized insulated inline crimp splices and the appropriate crimping tool. Match up each wire by function on the Pioneer harness with the corresponding wire on your aftermarket harness. Most of the time, the wires will be color-for-color matched. But make sure, sometimes wires for things like "illumination", "dimmer", "mute", etc may not be the same colors.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal while you are working behind the dash. After you have the harnesses spliced together, plug the radio end into your Pioneer, remove the old radio from the dash opening, unplug the antenna and wiring harness plug and plug the other end of your spliced harnesses into the vehicle plug and the antenna plug into your Pioneer's antenna connector. Slide the Pioneer loosely into the opening, but don't secure it yet. Reconnect the negative battery cable and test the receiver. If everything works, slide it into the dash opening and secure it. Use the rear support stud and rubber bumper if needed. Install the trim ring or separately purchased dash kit as required. Put the "face-fixing" screws in to prevent removal of the faceplate if desired. Reinstall any dash trim removed and you're finished.

Hope this helps.

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Hello zachary_reed,

What you need is an aftermarket wiring harness. These are made by Metra, Scosche, and others and are made to plug directly into the OEM radio harness. It appears that the one you want is the Scosche FB02B available from SonicElectronix. You simply connect the wires from your new receiver to the harness wires and then plug it into the factory radio plug. Another online retailer that sells aftermarket harnesses is www.crutchfield.com. Your local car audio shop or perhaps Best Buy may also have the wiring harness.

Be sure to match up the wires from your new radio harness to the aftermarket harness by FUNCTION, not by color. For example, most newer receivers will use Yellow as the 12V constant (hot) wire. The wiring color code for your F150 is shown here. Make sure that the pin on the aftermarket harness is connecting the yellow from your new receiver to the green/yellow of the OEM plug and so on.

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No, the dash openings are different sizes. The Ford uses what's termed an "Iso-DIN" opening whereas the Jeep uses "Euro-DIN. Both the width and the depth are different, and the the Ford being deeper than the Jeep, you may end up with a couple of inches of radio left over when it's fully pushed into the opening.

There are many dash kits available to adapt most aftermarket radios to most any make and model of vehicle. There's not any adapters that I know of to adapt one vehicles OEM radio to another make and modelof vehicle.

The radio will work OK. It's just that it'll be a lot of work and the finished result will probably resemble a "Rube Goldberg" add-on.

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