Question about Hobart A200 Stand Mixer

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Hobart a-200 Removal of Stator Winding Assembly

I am rebuilding Hobart A-200 (s/n 1773942 spec 168621) and will be powder coating each individual casting. Since they will baked at 400 deg F I though it would be wise to remove the stator winding assembly. I have removed the four screws that secure it, but is seems like it was originally assembled with a light press fit. I do not want to use ant brute force; are there any tricks for getting it out of the main casting? Thanks.

Charles

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  • c2gutbuster Dec 29, 2008

    I ended up using a product called Wurth Rost-Off and some gentle tapping of the whole main casting. It worked fine. The two pairs of wire leads have pretty old wiring that predates wire like THHN machine tool wire. It is quite brittle. I was going to call a motor winding shop to see if they could replace the leads. I imagine a replacment stator assembly is expensive. All the gears and shafts look good. There are some oil seals that I will replace. I could not believe how much grease was in the housing. Any recomendations for parts supplier and grease?

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Hobart will be your best bet for parts...There are other after market places that have some parts made to match Hobart parts. If you buy from one of these places be sure to know what their return policy is, before you buy. You can find them on the Internet. Your mixer was built in 1969. Recommended lube grease (in Canada) is Shell Darina XL EP-2 this is a microgel based grease made for extreme pressure lube needs, and offers great resistance against oil/grease separation (the oil you've seen in your motor space). In Canada this product is certified safe to use in food plants. There may be a separate spec. for US use. Call your local Hobart Parts, they'll tell you. The Shell product may be hard to find. The Distributors of this product, will usually (my experience) not sell anything less than a case for a retail sale, way more than you need. There are lot of good greases out there that would work. The main factor would be the separation issue. You really want one that has a long life expectancy. Hope this helped. Best of luck. ricardok45

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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They are not press fit but be careful they some times rust in the head and are a bit hard to get out. A wooden dowl fwom the front you can tap on it not the windings. Don't paint the inside it will never go back in.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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I have a hobart mixer 80 quart .The motor makes a noise and would not start. It only starts if I turn the shaft and turn the on switch at the same time


Most motors of that type have a capacitor that puts the stator out of phase with the rotor. They are capacitor start induction run motors. These also have a centrifugal switch inside near the end ot the shaft to put power to the start winding for a split second to determine the direction of turn and to increase horsepower until it is up to speed. So if it fails to start either the centrifugal switch needs cleaning (or replacement if damaged) or the capacitor needs replacing to give it its original power, or the start winding has failed from overheating. There may be a thermal cutout on the start winding that may need to be replaced if it did overheat. If the start winding burned then the motor would require rewinding or replacement.

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Hobart A 200 Mixer


There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

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It will open an exploded view of YOUR machine's build, complete with part numbers.
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1 Answer

A-200 Problem?? Apparently the electric wire coming into the back on the machine plugs into a small circuit board, the male prong aparently touched the copper wrap that makes the motor spin and has blown,...


Hi Adam. Easy part first! Check locally for an electric motor specialist, who can rebuild (rewind) the stator for you. If no luck there, check out eBay for a complete motor (stator and rotor), they come along fairly often.

If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. ricardok45

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2 Answers

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Hi. I can't help you with your first question...But I can help with your brushes problem. Unplug the mixer With the two inspection plates removed at the commutator end loosen the two screws of the brush holder which are above and below the motor bearing cover, they're the only larger screws now visible. Note the markings on the brush holder on the bottom right side where you removed the inspection plate. Rotate the brush holder to the other mark. Set the brush holder screws. Plug in the power. and start the motor. It should now be turning in the proper direction, if not, make small adjustments by loosening the set screws, and moving the brushes until it starts to your satisfaction. Be sure that the set screws are tightened when you're done. If you need further assistance, post a clarification.

I have the same spec. mixer as you do.

If this solution has assisted you, please rate it. Good luck! ricardok45

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1 Answer

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