Question about Saeco Odea Giro Plus Coffee Maker

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How do you remove the top (silver) cover

How do Iyou remove the top (silver) cover? I have to clean out and adjust the grinding unit (adjustment screw is just spinning)

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Here is a walkthrough i made....http://odeago.zxq.net/Odea_Go_Repair/Welcome.html

Posted on Feb 13, 2010

  • Ken Palma
    Ken Palma Feb 21, 2015

    link does not work any more

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Possibly spillage/water damage/corrosion, or may be bad contact in the wheel assembly itself. Best thing to do is to disassemble the wheel assembly, clean the circuit contacts with a good pen eraser and alcohol (not rubbing alcohol!), and reform and clean the contact brushes

Remove the back and front covers (you have to remove the back and grip and side rubberette), unplug the two flexes from the top cover at back board (be very careful with the flippers on the connector, they are very fragile), remove the top cover (screw holding eyepiece adjustment ring, screw by right strap lug, two silver screws under top cover at right and left sides. Discharge the flash capacitor (caution - may have 300 volts, major shock potential!). (make a discharge tool with a 1K 5 watt resister). You can then reach the wheel to diss-assemble/clean

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HEADLIGHT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
SEALED BEAM HEADLIGHTS REMOVAL 1 When replacing the headlight,do not turn the spring-loaded adjusting screws or the headlight aim will be changed 2. Remove the cover over the headlight this vehicle has five screws securing the cover other models may have four or six screws. 3. Remove the four screws which secure the retaining ring around the headlight support the headlight as this is done. 4. Pull the light away, unplug the connector and remove it from the vehicle. INSTALLATION 5. Position the new unit close enough to connect the wires. Make sure the numbers molded into the lens are at the top. 6. Install the retaining ring and mounting screws. 7. Install the plastic cover to the headlights with the screws you took off and check for proper operation. If the adjusting screws (spring - loaded adjusting screws) were not turned, the headlight should not require adjustment.

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Primary chain hitting case on clutch housing, cable nearly fully adjusted clutch slips if adjust any more. bad grinding noise from chain hitting case can i adjust clutch any more in housing?


The primary chain adjustment has nothing to do with the clutch. Take the small upper inspection cover off the primary cover and use your finger to check the primary chain tension. It should have 3/8 to 1/2 inch up and down movement in the top run of the chain when the engine is cold. To adjust, loosen the lock nut on the primary chain adjuster on the bottom of the primary case. Turn the screw upward to tighten the chain, downward to loosen. Once set, tighten the locknut.

To adjust the clutch, loosen the clutch cable adjuster as much as you can. Remove the derby cover from the primary cover. Remove the spring and the locknut. Turn the adjuster screw counterclockwise as far as it will go. Turn it back in 1/4 turn and replace the lock nut and the spring. Replace derby cover. Adjust the clutch cable so that you have about a 1/8 inch play at the hand lever.

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I used a Dremmel tool cut-off wheel and now have slotted screws. You don't have to remove the screws first. Remove the carb, tape it up to keep it clean, and grind the screws. The raised guard will also grind, which gives you a guide for adjustment.

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I have been using Olympus Master 2.03 for a long time. I have the problem of it shutting down usually in edit mode. Is this problem fixed in OM2.2?


Remove the two screws on the right side of the camera (right as camera is facing away from you.)

Remove the screw from the top right side of the camera.

Remove two screws from left side of camera.

Remove the screw from the top left side of the camera.

Remove the screw that is just to the right of the viewfinder.

Pop up the flash.

Lift the top section of the casing off, with the following in mind... There are two spots where the casing interlocks: 1. Rear to the right of the viewfinder -- press in on that area to release it from the lower casing. 2. Front directly under the ME in MEGAPIXEL; press in on that as well.

Remove screw from rear side of tripod mount. (leave the front one)

CAREFULLY remove the screw from the viewfinder adjustment. The adjustment is very delicate and has two tiny plastic tabs that will shear off quite easily -- trust me because I broke mine. If you break yours, be sure to adjust it to the most convenient position (i.e. not macro) before reassembling.

REMOVE THE FLASH CARD!

At thie point, no screws impede the removal of the rear case. The flash card ejector switch, however, is a minor obstacle. It seems best to have it slid all the way to the left as you work the rear cover off (from right to left worked for me.)

Now follow the green ribbon cable from the Cancel/OK/4way switch up to the right of the zoom. Just to the right of the zoom, under that cable, is a screw hole that is more than likely EMPTY. It's not supposed to be. Find the tiny screw that goes in that hole. Either get rid of it, (not vital, IMHO) or if you want to put it back...

To replace the screw:

Remove the two screws holding the top LCD and power switch on.

Lift the rear of that assembly up to disengage its connector, and slide it back. Two LEDs protrude down from the front of it into the front casing, so be careful not to bend them.

Underneath is the socket for the ribbon for the OK/Cancel/4way. Slide it out. Now you have access to the screw hole.

Replace the screw.

Re-insert the ribbon. Make sure it is in all the way and straight.

Tile the top control board back into place, pressing it down into its socket.

At this point I inserted a battery and tested to make sure the rear and top controls still functioned. You may want to play it safe and not do this while all of the guts are exposed, but the risk is probably minimal. Do it at your own risk though.

Replace the two screws for the top control assembly.

Temporarily press the flash down and make sure the white switch at its rear is in the right place and won't get smashed when you reassemble!

Seat the compactflash ejector slide switch onto the bottom of the camera, making sure its points left, and that its two adjacent tabs straddle the metal tab on the CF slot. It's easiest to reassemble when it is slid left, so slide it there.

Replace the rear cover, tilting it on from left to right.

Insert a CF card and make sure the release switch works.

Make sure the hinge pin for the CF cover hasn't slid out, and that the cover snaps into place.

Replace its 2 long silver screws on right side of the rear cover.

Replace two shorter silver screws on left side of the rear cover.


Replace the longer silver tripod mount screw.

VERY CAREFULLY insert the viewfinder adjustment into the viewfinder, making sure its delicate tabs are in the slots of the viewfinder.
Reinstall the long black screw that holds it in place.
(If you break this, make sure to adjust the viewfinder to an optimal (infinity?) position before replacing the back cover.)

Replace the top cover while holding the flash release switch back.
Note the two points from earlier that snap together.

Test the flash release.

Replace the two screws on either side of the top cover and the one in the rear. These are all the same size.

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2 Answers

After grinding, no coffee comes out, it stops pumping water. The grinds are wet and hot tho'


First try adjusting the grind atleast 2 numbers coarser, then run two shots for trial, if that does not fix the problem then remove the brew unit and find the screen and clean screen and tube on unit.

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4 Answers

Saeco Odea Giro - disassembly


Hope this can help:

I managed to take mine apart because I was having a lot of leaking steam from the steam wand (as posted earlier). I followed your instructions, and all worked very well. Just to prepare readers, this is what I found. The green seal on the steam end was torn, as previously described. I noticed it start to "drag" a bit during use (daily for the past year), and it must have stuck and torn over time. See photos. I replaced with a part from ACE, see photo. Be sure to lube before re-assembly. Hope the photos help!

BA

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Dec 20, 2008 | Saeco Odea Giro Espresso Maker -...

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Full of Beans


Hi,

You have to mount a resistance on the power card.

/Mirran

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Lots of disturbing noises, no coffee


It is is easy, if you know how to do it... as always
First take of the wather, trach bin etc,
Start with removing the cup wher the beans is stored, the adjustment knob for the mill is a tricky part. Remove it by bending out the side of the knob. Thereafter remove the screws from cup and those you on see on the top.
The front (silver frame) is removed by lifting it upwards, behind it you have 4 screws that has to be removed.
The last two screws is found under the wather tank.
Now you should had take away 11 screws, at least...
Bend the back of top and it will be off. Finally push the rest of the plastic cover backwards.

Do you know what the error codes says? I have know 6,8and no coffy...

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