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Red eye is cause by the internal flash being mounted to close to the lens center axes and is a common problem with most all cameras built this way. Many manufactures have attempted to use "red eye" reduction which fires a pre-flash to close the subjects retina before the actual flash for exposure. Does it work in my opinion no it just cause the subject to think "Oh there's the flash the picture has been taken" and they move while the actual pictures is being made. Yet others tried to send a high intensity light in the subjects direction and that wasn't much better. To get around the red eye with a point and shoot camera you need to get the flash away from the camera. It's called "Off Camera" for your camera it would require an optional digital flash that will sync with the camera flash shutter speed mounted to a bracket that holds the flash above the camera at least 4 inches. However in the case of a pocket camera such as what you have, there now comes the problem of how to trigger the optional off camera flash. This can be done but requires a little non intrusive hacking and a piece of aluminum foil. All this extra gear has now pretty much destroyed the concept of a pocket point and shooter but you asked how to eliminate it as well. The U bracket and flash can be obtained through camera accessory manufactures another item you will need is a photo cell slave mounted on the flash which is mounted to the U bracket. T tripper the flash a small piece of reflective foil is taped in front of the flash angling the reflected light towards the photo cell slave. The slave "sees" the flash from the camera and triggers the optional flash. There are no wires involved so in fact this second flash could be mounted on a tripod to the side of the subject just as long as the camera flash is directed toward it. Once you get one optional flash to fire it is possible to connect multiple flash units using slave cells and create a studio lighting effect. You have now taken a point and shoot camera and turned it into a studio camera cool huh? Okay to address your second problem I feel as if I have to tell you what is happening before i explain what to do. Due to the mass amount of snow and possible overcast conditions you camera built in light meter "sees" this as a lot of light and closed down the aperture and or increases shutter speed, which in fact will under expose the scene. To work around this problem you need to switch you camera off any type of auto exposure zone and go to a manual setting. Look at the cameras light meter reading and purposely over expose it in most cases by two stops of light. I know this most likely all appears to complicated BUT, it's not beyond the capacity of your camera.
If you have a yellow cast to your photos, the problem might not be your printer. If you're using a digital camera, indoors under incandescent lighting without a flash your pictures will look yellow.
If this is the case, set your camera's White Balance to Incandescent lighting or use the flash. If all of your pictures, even those taken in daylight, look yellow you'll have to adjust the colors on your printer using the "toolbox" software that comes with it and back the yellow off. I've found that HP printers tend to have better color rendition than Canon.
To take photos with red eye reduction requires your flash to firerapidly before snapping the pic. Make sure camera is in record mode pres the 4 way switch with the lightning sign on it. The flash modes will pop up. select red eye flash.
To fix red-eye after a photo is taken. Bring up the photo in playback mode and press menu button. Red eye reduction should be available as one of the menu items. Otherwise, display the pic, press OK button in center and if you like the fixed picture then select yes to store it.
The flash has been working fine until last night when I tried to take a picture and the flash was set to auto. When I press the button the little red light beside the flash sign lights up, but the camera does not take the photo. When I set it to flash mode, it still won't take a photo. When I turn off the flash, then it does. What could be the problem? Is it in the settings?
This camera is bad for red eye. It's just a problem that happens when the flash is so close to the lens. Red eye occurs when the flash illuminates the subject's retina.
The only solution, really, is to add an external flash that's farther away from the camera lens, which is not an option with this camera. The other, is to get better at taking photos without flash. Higher end cameras have better ways to deal with the red-eye, but these usually involve preflashes that close the subjects pupils (by blinding them with a preflash) before the actual exposure is taken. The Sony DSC-U30 has it as a feature, but it doesn't work very well, I've found. When it does work, it's a nice compromise as it gets rid of the red eye, but it also introduces a delay between pressing the exposure button and the actual taking of the photo.
Unless the light is very dim, I don't use flash with this camera.
After you've taken the photo and have downloaded it, there are ways to edit the red eye out that can be pretty effective.