Our band is loosing our bass player and we need to purchase 18" subs. I normally buy JBL and for our mids and high freq. we use the SRX series. Does anyone know if I will hear a difference with using the JRX or the MRX series instead of the SRX 18" subs?
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The problem with dual voice coil subs is that the amplifier must be able to drive the load. I am assuming that each coil is 2Ohms each and the amplifier you are driving the subwoofer with is capable of driving that load. If this assumption (of the VC) is true your Amplifier will need to power the 2Ohms of the VC this will be "Normal". If the Amplifier is not capable of powering less than 4Ohms you will need to wire the subwoofer in "Series". If the Amplifier is capable of powering half the VC's resistance you can wire it in "Parallel". Normal wiring is going to be, Positive on the Amplifier goes to the Positive (red) side on the subwoofer and Negative on the Amplifier goes to the Negative (black) side on the subwoofer, then repeat this for the other output side of the Amplifier to the other VC, easy: This is "Series". Now if the amplifier is not capable of driving the load this gets slightly complicated. Positive from one of the positives on the amplifier goes to one positive side of the speaker. Negative goes to the opposite coils Negative side (black), now you get a short wire of your preference from the Negative that has no other input and run it to the opposite Positive side that has no other input: This is called "Parallel". If the Amplifier is capable of running a load lower than the resistance rating of the subwoofer then run the wire from Positive on the Amplifier to Positive on the subwoofer and Negative on the Amplifier to Negative on the subwoofer, and then run a short wire of your preference from the first VC to the other VC, Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. Double check the wiring Red to Red and Black to Black in everything but "Series". Take it easy and don't wake the dead, I did that in the middle of the day they don't like being waken from their slumber.
A graphic equalizer is designed to allow the user to tailor the music to his or her personal hearing. Obviously not everyone hears frequencies the same. As you get older or are exposed to loud noises you lose sensitivity to certain frequencies. To compensate for that you can boost or cut the fequencies being played through your system. Originally the graphic equalizer was designed to make corrections to bad recordings and deficiencies in the recording medium of the time. Now they are used more to compensate for hearing deficiencies. To understand how an equalizer works you need to understand that ideally the normal person can hear about 20 khz of audio when they are young and have perfect hearing. Probably more realistically they can hear 20 hz to 15 khz. Enter the equalizer. All sounds are heard differently according to the intensity of the frequency. If your hearing is bad, say down 10db at 10khz, with an equalizer you could boost 10khz by 10db and make up for it. An equalizer contains filters which breaks the audio spectrum into bands. Could be 3, 6, 10, 15, 20 or more. The more bands the more the equalizer costs but the more corrective power you have. We have equalizers with 64 bands. . The numbers on the sliders are the frequencies your equalizer can boost or cut. Keep in mind that they are the center frequency and will effect frequencies on either side for about a 10db range. So you can cut/boost frequencies at 50hz (very low), 200hz (low but still bass), 800hz (low to mid range), 3.2khz (range of speech), and 12.8khz (high frequency). The best way to observe how your equalizer works would be to play something and adjust one control at a time to see what it does. You will notice a difference. Then it basically becomes a project to adjust the unit to the way that you like to hear your music. You like bass, boost the low frequencies. Like the highs, boost them. Give it a try.
the red or white one, and polarity of the speaker is red+ black - if it is a black widow, The stamped steel peavey has the + - sign stamped into the terminal pad. you can always trace the hot wire as the one that connects to the tip of the 1/4 inch input or pin one of the speakon 4 connector. This works on any speaker.
Since you have not mentioned the amplifier I am not aware if the amp does have an preamp input and output. In case you have these then the output of the preamp of the main amp must be connected to the input of the equaliser and the output of the equaliser must go to the input of the main amplifier. The sources can be connected to the amplifer according to the selected device.If your amp does not have the preamp input/output then connect the source to the input of the equaliser and the output of the equaliser to the aux of the main amplifier.Now set your amp's bass and treble to mid point and set yout equaliser accordingly. Hope this helps. Good day
I dont know this model of feedback destroyer, but i'd like to tell you this. I'm a service technicien for a touring company. We found that in the last 10 years Behringer quality drop down so much that was making alot of their components useless. To cure such problem usually found with monitor, i'll recommand buying a 31 band EQ and adjust the mid high freq level section. You could install it with inserts cable just on the main vocal entry i guess, also you should give a try to this way of connections for you feedback destroyer. It might be the way you're hooking it. Send a draw of the actual connections...
Hi there, Although I am not familiar with the Zoom HD 8 Track I am a former sound engineer so may be able to offer some general advice.
Firstly, because the wave pattern of low frequencies is very long, there are a number of things that will greatly effect bass response caused by standing waves. 1) The position of your bass monitors. Ideally these should be low down but not directly on the floor, especially if the flooring is wooden. 2) Try your monitors/speakers at a slightly different angle. Bass can bounce off walls, back towards the sound source and phase out the signal, rather like a noise cancelling system. 3) Try listening to the sound in different areas of the room. You will be amazed at how the sound pressure level will vary, simply by you moving from one position to another. 4) Never put bass tracks exactly at centre, always offset them slighly by a few degrees left or right. 5) Do some of your mixing using headphones, you will not have to worry about standing waves. But remember that things sound very different on speakers in free space.
Strangely, the reason you are getting distortion when you turn things up is probably because your bass is on the verge of over modulation to start with. Really bass is felt, not heard. You could try is to decrease your mid and high frequencies a little. The ratio between high frequencies and low ones will then increase by default and your bass may feel heavier. What are you mixing?