Question about Haier BC112G Wine Cooler

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Ice is forming on the rear of the Haier wine chiller

Wine is chilling but ice is forming on the rear of the chiller...should we first defrost and possibly blow the drain?

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  • controlpav Feb 17, 2009

    I have a Haier HVW18ABB 18 bottle thermoelectric wine cooler and ice is forming on the inside of the lower thermoelectric heat exchanger causing the fan to scrape on the ice.



    Does this type of circuit require a defrost cycle? Or is the unit just running too cold?



    Thanks

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5 Suggested Answers

SOURCE: haier wine cooler

Hold + and - keys down together until LED blinds (about 4 or 5 seconds), Then press + or - key to lower or raise temp. Once you've reached the desired temp press the set key.

Posted on Mar 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Haier Wine Cooler won't cycle on and off automatically

Hey all,

For those of you who have problems with one or both or your zones not cooling on the HVTB18DABB or similar wine cooler/cellar, the problem lies the Peltier-style thermoelectric cooling module. The original part is "TEC1-12706" and information on it can be found on google. Finding this or a similar part on ebay can be done by searching for "thermoelectric cooler". If the exact TEC1-12706 part cannot be found, then any similar part that's 40mm x 40mm in size, and 51 to 69 watts should do fine. For $25 I was able to get 3 modules...one to replace the bad zone I had, and then I'll have 2 spares in case the other zone, or this new one, ever go bad again.

To replace the part you must remove the back panel from your Wine cellar. You will see 2 big fans attached to two large heat sinks. (If a heat sink on the back does not feel warm to the touch, the the other side is obviously not cooling, which means that zone is broken.) Remove the screws from the fan and the heat sink of the zone that is not cooling, and while holding the heat sink, pull the whole cooling assembly for that zone out. Dont be alarmed if you feel some insulating foam separating as you pull it out, its a tight fit so that is to be expected. Once you have the cooling assembly out of the fridge, take it apart and you will see the square ceramic cooling module inside. (REMEMBER which way the module was oriented before you remove it, so you know how to put the new one in.) Clip the red and black wires near the module and remove it from the assembly. DON'T wipe away any of the white thermal grease left behind on the heat sinks. If you have any extra thermal grease handy (available at Best Buy, or online at sites like newegg), apply an extra pea-sized dab to both sides of the new module. Put the assembly back together and splice the wires from the new module to the loose wires left behind going into the back of the Wine cellar. Mount everything back in place as before, close up the back, and youre done!

This is really a lot easier to do than it sounds, especially if you're comfortable doing this sort of thing...a few pictures would explain much better if anyone wants to illustrate.

These are actually great units, so I hope this helps somebody fix theirs!



Posted on Sep 24, 2008

ramon49
  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: My Haier 12 wine bottle cooler is dead. No fan or cooling .

Check the 2 fuses,one covered with black heat shrink, next see if internal fan is spinning, inside door, the 2 fans on the back should spin when first plugged in. also the 2 led's red and green should light up...if internal fan doesn't spin then check or replace, use batteries to get it to spin as a test...good luck,safety first...

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 4793 Answers

SOURCE: My Haier wine cooler (Model BC112G) has stopped

let the thing totally defrost (24hrs)with the door open then switch it back on as a first step,the ice on the pipes stops the gas from turning from a liquid to a gas...thats how it cools..

Posted on Jun 03, 2010

woodchuck789
  • 4059 Answers

SOURCE: Ice is forming on the back wall of my freezer

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

Posted on Jul 06, 2010

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