Question about Mavic Ksyrium Elite Wheelset

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Under load in 12 and 13 cog chain seems to jump a tooth in 53

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If your chain is jumping teeth under load, it is an indication that the chain is worn and stretched. A new chain should fix the problem, but you should also check your cogs and chain rings for wear. Your shop will have the measuring tools to do this.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009


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check the tooth profile on the drive cog and the cog on the wheel
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Did you also replace the chain or any of the cogs? Skipping is a common condition when you replace one and not the other. Or if the cogs and chain are well worn, it may simply be time to replace them. You can usually do fine without replacing the gear-rings (that is, the cogs by the pedals)

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Better check the firing order carefully, and make sure your wires are completely on the plug. Check them all and push them on as hard as you can. If that doesn't solve it, check the timing. Your chain may be worn, and it could have even jumped a cog.

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It sounds like the limit screws on your derailleur body are out of adjustment. They are usually small phillips head screws on the body of the front and rear derailleur that limit the travel of the derailleur body on the rear so that the chain cannot get shifted into the spokes or off the smallest cog into the frame. On the front they prevent the chain from shifting off the inside or outside cogs. There are good articles under front and rear derailleur adjustments at this site: I hope this helps.

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Im assuming it is an engine that uses a timing belt. It sounds like the belt has jumped 1 tooth. if it only jumped 1 tooth than the computer will compesate the timing so it is possible the sensors will say they are ok. If it is a motor that uses a chain than it problaly needs a new gear/chain set.

I’m happy to help further over the phone at

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It sounds like your chain is either stretched or worn out. Worse case scenario is a broken tooth on the front or rear gears or worn teeth. Unless you have a chain break it is easier to take the bike in and get them to replace the chain. They will also check the rear cog and the crank at the same time.

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AEG LAVAMAT 74620 Update Gears on the fill tray have jumped. The primary and idler have to be installed correctly and are fool proof but the third, half gear, needs setting. Can you please supply pic or...

Found this on another site ( posted by Dave in Jan 2009:

This is one of those things where a picture would be worth a thousand words, but as I can't put pictures on this site, the words will have to do!
- Turn the orange cog anti-clockwise as far as it will go, (putting the nozzle to direct the water to the conditioner drawer)
- Look closely at the orange cog and you'll see that the last-but-one tooth at each end of the row is shorter than the rest. Looking from above and standing at the front of the machine, I call the rightmost tooth on this cog number 1, the short tooth number 2 etc. (my cog has 17 teeth)
- Position the white cog so that (looking from above) the leftmost tooth on the top (incomplete) row of this cog is between teeth 2 and 3 of the orange cog. This should be such that if the white cog rotates anti-clockwise it will turn the orange cog.
Now the difficult bit:
- The shaft that the yellow cog fits on has four vertical 'webs' running down it. Look closely and you'll see that one of these is bigger than the other three. As you would expect, if you look carefully at the centre of the yellow cog it has three small slots and one bigger one spaced around the hole.
- This shaft can be VERY CAREFULLY rotated if you pull it gently upwards against it's spring and wiggle it while twisting it. NEVER force it, the cogs underneath are VERY fragile. If it won't turn, just let go, and try again.
- Look again at the white cog, and you'll see that two of the teeth on the lower (complete) set of teeth have no slot between them, they make a tooth that is 'double width'.
- Look at the yellow cog and you'll see that it has a 'double width' slot on it's lower row.
- The challenge is to rotate the yellow cog's shaft so that you can fit the yellow cog on it, aligning the double-width slot on the yellow cog with the big tooth on the white cog. This is just a case of trial and error, but is the key to getting everything back together.

The yellow cog only ever turns clockwise and the white cog is a clever bit of engineering allowing AEG to move the nozzle (orange cog) backwards and forwards across the five positions.
The yellow cog turns the orange cog anti-clockwise until it runs out of teeth, then the white cog turns the orange cog the other way.
After a full rotation of the yellow cog, the orange one has moved clockwise to the stain-treatment position and the by-pass beyond, then anti-clockwise back to the conditioner position.

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