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Karaoke speaker,no woofer or midrange working, only tweeter

I have a karoake speaker set that has a built-in power amplifier in one of the speakers. Thru a cable the 2nd speaker enclosure is connected to the "amped" speaker enclosure. I've only had the set a few years and really have'nt used them all that much. Last week I went to hook them up and found that the tweeter, in the "amped" speaker was the only speaker working. Each speaker enclosure has a woofer,tweeter and a mid-range,the only difference in the two is that one has the power amp. While it was hooked up to the 2nd speaker, which sounded great,meaning all the speakers were working in that 2nd enclosure, the main "amped" speaker only had the tweeter operating. The woofer and midrange were silent. I removed the 8" woofer from the affected speaker (without disconnecting it from the devices inside the enclosure) and hooked my stereo speaker wire up to the two connections on the back of the speaker to see if it would work. Nope! Same result, only the tweeter worked.If anyone can help me with this I'd really appreciate it!!!!!

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Re: karaoke speaker,no woofer or midrange working, only...

Hi, it's probably that the 8" woofer and the midrange of the "amped" enclosure is open. One way to test is to remove just one wire from the inside of the enclosure to the woofer or midrange in question and with the use of a continuity tester (or a VOM), check for the resistance of the coil of each the 2 speakers. Both should read anywhere from 4-8 ohms, if there's no reading (VOM needle will not move) then the coil(s) are open. In the absence of a tester, a single AAA or AA battery would do (pls. some would argue that this is not a sound practice, however this should be enough for you to be able to determine the condition of the coil(s)). With the use of the battery and a single short length of electrical wire, apply power from the battery to the terminals of the speaker, if the cone moves, then chances are it is good, if they don't then you would have to replace it. Am not sure if available in your area, but there are some trained people who can rewind the coil should a replacement speaker be not readily available. Hope this be of help. Please let us know how things turn up. Regards.

Posted on Apr 15, 2007

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Bi-wiring is using the same power source (amplifier) but separately connecting that power source to a woofer and a midrange/tweeter on a speaker.

Bi-amping is using two separate power sources (amplifiers) and connecting one amplifier to a woofer and the other amplifier to a midrange/tweeter on a speaker.

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The part number for the A series 3 bar tweeter is T4969/P. The 3 bars refers to the 3 bars in the casting to protect the dome. I got this number from the box of my spare tweeter I have the earlier 1 bar castings in my A3's.

Go to do an "artikelsuche" (article search) for the number T4969/P and something extremeley similar shows up except that they list the manufacturer as Onkyo. The part number and description are so similar to what is printed on my spare tweeter box it would be worth 81 euros to see what shows up.
I have designed an adapter plate for either a Scan-Speak Revelator Tweeter D2904/710002 4 ohm, 1" soft dome, 70 mm diameter magnet, $220 or a Vifa D27TG35-06 6 ohms, 72 mm diameter magnet, 91 db, $37.50..Both are available from: in Burbank, CA

I only modeled the front flange of the tweeter to save time. I have not built any of these yet but the price would probably be $400 for a pair of adapter plates and speaker flange modifications. But when you are done you would have replaceable tweeter for a long time to come. The 2 protective bars are drawer handles available for $3 each.

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If you want the drawings (and 3D geometry file necessary for the machinist to make the curved edges) for the adapter plate and tweeter flange modification contact me at

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