Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Only sometimes, and I haven't figured out when, my Whirlpool Duet washer floods the floor. It usually manages to finish the complete cycle, and only rarely it doesn't even finish draining and spinning. It first flooded the floor after I had only had it 15 months, and it happened about once every two months. Now at 4 years old it is flooding about every 2-3 weeks. I run about one load a day. The water is not sudsy but clean so it's probably from the end of the cycle. It is a lot of water, and appears to be the whole drum amount draining - somehow onto the floor instead of out the hose, but NOT every time. The wall is NOT wet where the hose tucks into the drain. It floods randomly, and I haven't been able to connect anything with it. It usually only floods once, and then not again for awhile. Has anybody had a similar problem?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
La Trisha, There could be many reasons for the leak, however usually all leaks are visable. Your model is a direct drive pump and motor and I have seen a lot of these pumps go bad and leak. You will have to remove the front panel. There should be 2 clips, one on each side of the washer top. Push a putty knife in these clips and the front panel should pop out from the top. Now you will be looking right at the pump on the bottom. It is held on with 2 clips and 2 clamps, a real easy fix. When you remove the front panel, let the washer fill a little again and see if the water is pouring from the pump. You will also be able to get a look at all the other hose attachments. The part number for the pump is 3363394. Good luck..
Posted on Jun 18, 2006
SOURCE: flooding! Help
This is usually a symptom of a pressure switch malfunction. The pressure switch is located in the operator console behind the load (or water) level knob. It is cylindrical in shape and
has an electrical connection and an air hose attached to it. In many
cases, the only problem is that the air hose has come loose and fallen
off the fitting on the pressure switch. All you have to do is reattach it. HINT: placing a small zip tie around the air hose where it connects onto the pressure switch will create enough resistance to keep the hose from vibrating loose again. Just a snug fit will do. Over tightening can break the fitting on the pressure switch. You will need to open the
console and inspect it. To open the console, it comes off in a few
different ways depending on the year and model of the washer:
1. If you have removable end caps on the console, they simply pry off by lifting from the the back exposing a screw under either end. Remove the screws and the console lifts up.
2. If the end caps do not come off, place a putty knife in the front corner of either end of the console where it meets the washer top and push in while lifting up. This depresses a retaining clip and the console will lift up.
3. Some consoles have a screw located on either side in the back that you need to remove and it will then lift up.
Be careful when you lift the console. There are small plastic hinges holding it in place and they can break if you aren't careful. Place the console in its resting position by laying it over the back of the washer. The pressure switch will be easily accessible. Double check the hose like I previously stated and double check to make sure all the electrical connections are in place.
If you check the switch and find that everything is in place as it should be, you may have to replace the switch. Post back with your COMPLETE model number (located around the rim of the washer tub opening) and I can track down a part number for you.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 11, 2008
Water accumulating in the tub is usually caused by two things:
Leak by - which is caused by a water inlet valve malfunction. The valve has an electronically controlled diaphragm that closes to shut the water off when not in use. Over time the valve can accumulate sediment and debris causing the valve not to seat all the way. This is especially true if you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water. This will cause water to leak by when the valve is not in use and accumulate over time in the wash tub. You can attempt to clean the valve with distilled vinegar to remove any sediments and flush it with clean water. You will need to remove the valve in order to do this. Sometimes a good cleaning is all it takes to correct the problem. If not, I would recommend replacing it.
Siphoning - siphoning occurs when the drain line is installed incorrectly. The following link explains:
Although the problem usually describes a condition where a washer constantly fills and drains, or cannot maintain the proper water level, it can also cause back flow from the drain. Double check your drain line installation to ensure there is a proper air gap to allow for proper draining. If not, a vacuum is created and drain water can back flow into the washer.
A simple test would be to shut the water supply off when not in use. If the washer STILL accumulates water, you know you have a drain problem. If it does NOT, then you know you have an inlet valve issue.
If you need to replace the water inlet valve, replacements can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number and look under the "Dispenser Parts" heading for item number 1 (part #8181694).
It is a very simple process to replace. Just follow these steps:
1. Shut off water supply and unplug washer.
2. Disconnect fill hoses from the back of the washer.
3. Remove washer top panel by removing the three screws that hold it in place in the rear. With the screws removed, the panel slides back, then off.
4. The water inlet valve is located in the left rear of the washer (as viewed from the front with panel removed).
5. Disconnect the dispenser hose from the valve and the mounting screw(s) and the valve is removed.
6. Install new valve using the steps above in reverse order.
It really is a very simple repair. I hope you find this information helpful. Let me know if you still require assistance.
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
I work for an appliance repair company and I had a recent service call for the same exact situation on this washer. I also know that Rotary Position Sensor is linked to the F-51 error code. I have found that this is not always the case. On this paticular call the F-51 error code was caused by a piece of clothing (sock, wash cloth, etc.) being stuck or jammed between the internal basket and the outer tub. I removed the cloth and the washer ran fine, so give that a check first before you spend the money.
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
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