I am getting a red light come on my amp that is labeled port. It is getting power because the blue light is lite on the amp itself. The green light that says power does not come on though. No fuses are blown and all my speaker work in my car my subs jus wont cut on.
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Re: RED Port light on AMP?
Are you sure its not PROT?
the amplifier is protecting itself from fire because of something.
Disconnect the subs. and turn on.
if it comes on normally, the subs are at fault and will need attention. If the light still stays on, you hafe probably blown an output on the amplifier and it will need repair.
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Could be that you have a partially roasted(blown) coil on one of your subs which will function- but will keep tripping your amp.You can check that out just by using a different set of subs to listen to and by the process of elimination if the problem goes away then you know where the problem is at.Also check your gains you might be riding the gain a little high which causes distortion which causes heat(FAST) which will cause the amp to shut down completely or some amps will decrease output in a programmed attempt to save itself.turn the bass boost down to half if you even use it at all- that too can cause massive distortion in the amp itself,meaning only that if you have the bass boost on your deck turned up and then you turn the boost up on your amp the sound signal is then WAYYY distorted which will cause a thermal shutdown too. Last thing is to make sure that your subs arent running below 2 ohms because i believe that particular amp is designed to put out about 900 watts at 2 ohms.good luck
Make sure the red, yellow, and remote cable (usually blue and white stripes) that are coming from the radio are connected to the correct positions in the amp. Make sure amp is also grounded well enough that the ground cable does not come loose. make Sure none of the cables touch each other or the frame of the car (except for ground). Also make sure the cables for the speakers are connected to the amp and subs/speakers properly and not touch any part of the amp or other cables. Check the cables then write again if it happens again.
Disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up normally (no protect light), the wiring needs to be checked. If it still goes into protect, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
With your multimeter set to DC volts and the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp, touch the red lead alternately to the B+ and remote terminals as the amp shuts down. If the voltage drops below ~11 volts, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is dropping too low.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down, the amp likely has blown output transistors.
hi, note that if you are not using the proper gauge b+ and gnd cable with this amp then the current available at the amp wont be sufficint to keep amp on. also try using this amp while vehicle is idling. if this doesnt work then disconnect all spks from amp and check if red lite stops flashing. if it doesnt stop flashing then amp has internal fault. if lite stays on brite then proceed to check each spk load impedance, then reconnect each spk individually. the minute red lite starts flashing it will give you a clue that the channel or spk load is faulty. cheers