Question about Breadman TR444 Bread Maker

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Leaking seal I need a new round metal/plastic seal through which the shaft passes. The present one is chipped. I may need some of the white washers ( three were on the shaft). Thanks, Van dad@loonlanding.net

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  • 368 Answers

Hi dad8929,

For parts, go to

http://prc.prodregister.com/prodprotect/applica/

And click on "Breadman" (upper-right portion of the page), it redirects you to a secure webpage where you can register.

https://secure.prodregister.com/prodprotect/applica/bm.shtml

Part of the page reads:
"Call toll-free or visit our websites for assistance if you need more help.

Parts & Accessories:
Phone: 1-800-738-0245 (Monday–Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., ET)

Product Warranty:
Service: 1-800-231-9786 (Monday-Friday, 8:30 a.m. to 8:00 a.m., ET)"

If I can be of further assistance, let me know. If this helps or solves the issue, please rate it accordingly.

Thanks in-advance for using Fixya.com,

Jon

Posted on Jan 04, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Blanco Supreme 533-U sink drain leaking at seal


The sink basket/strainer that fits into the large hole of the sink should have either a bead of silicone sealant applied to the sealing lip of the assembly or a ring of plumbers putty. Silicone will work very well if the mating flanges are clean and dry.

With the baket in place, the rubber seal goes between the large nut and the sink. A bead of silicon on this is optional on the sink side of that rubber seal. and the nut tightened down snug , forcing some of the silicone out fro beneath the mating flange and rubber seal. Tight enough so the basket is not free to move. Be it plastic or brass/metal, that order is the same, only a plastic nut is not tightened as tightly as a metal nut would be.

On the bottom of the drain basket assembly there is a nut, to retain a plastic or brass tail piece. The plastic tail piece will have a polyetheylene "flanged washer" for a seal to the bottom of the sink basket. If it is a brass tailpiece, a rubber seal and metal nut is used with "pipe dope"/thread sealing compound used on the threads of the metal nut. With the plastic nut, you can apply a few wraps of teflon tape to the threads of the drain basket, but is not required in most cases as the poly flanged washer will form the seal. The plastic nuts should not be tightened any more than hand tight.

beneath that, the rest of the drain assembly attaches. If plastic- no more than hand tight. if metal, only about 1/4 turn past hand tight. Metal nuts and parts should use rubber gaskets/seals and the plastic parts should only use the poly tapered/lip seals.

Jan 15, 2012 | Plumbing

1 Answer

1998 ford explorer 2 wheel drive rear wheel bearing replacement


what about it?

conventional axle or limited slip? Get axle code off door sticker.

SECTION 205-02: Rear Drive Axle/Differential - Ford 8.8-Inch Ring Gear 1998 Explorer/Mountaineer Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Rear Wheel Bearing and Axle Shaft Oil Seal -4.0L SOHC and 4.0L EI, Conventional
Special Tool(s) swn~us~en~file=st1514a.gif~gen~ref.gif Axle Seal Replacer
T83T-1175-A swn~us~en~file=st1283a.gif~gen~ref.gif Axle Wheel Bearing Puller
T83T-1225-A swn~us~en~file=st1322a.gif~gen~ref.gif Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer
T83T-1225-B swn~us~en~file=st1326a.gif~gen~ref.gif Driver Handle
T80T-4000-W swn~us~en~file=st1185a.gif~gen~ref.gif Impact Slide Hammer
T50T-100-A
Removal
  1. Remove the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.
Axle Shaft Removal
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut. Heat can damage the wheel (1007) and the rear wheel bearings (1225).
    Loosen the lug nuts (1012).
    1. Remove the center cap.
    1. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
    1. Remove the lug nuts.
    1. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  1. Remove the axle housing cover (4033).
    1. Loosen the axle housing cover bolts (4346) and drain the rear axle (4001).
    1. Remove the axle housing cover bolts.
    1. Remove the axle housing cover.
  1. Remove the rear disc brake rotors (2C026); refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft (4211) has been removed, turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
    Remove the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
    Remove the U-washers (4N237).
    1. Push the axle shafts inboard.
    1. Remove the U-washers.
  1. Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177).
    Remove the two axle shafts.
Installation
  1. Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft has been removed, turning the differential case or an axle shaft will cause the differential pinion gears to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
    Remove the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
    1. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
    Install the two axle shafts.
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves.
    Install the U-washers.
    1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts.
    1. Pull the axle shafts outward.
  1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the differential pinion shaft lock bolt hole.
    1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
  1. Install the rear disc brake rotors; refer to Section 206-04 .
  1. Install the axle housing cover and fill the rear axle housing (4010) with 2.4 liters (5.5 pints) of specified lubricant; refer to Axle Housing Cover in this section.
  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: Always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material that may be present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub or rear disc brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control.
    Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces.
  1. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
    1. Position the tire and wheel assembly.
    1. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.
    1. Tighten the lug nuts.
    1. Install the center cap.


  1. swn~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Never remove the axle shaft oil seal by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal at the same time.
    NOTE: If the axle shaft oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with debris.
    Use Impact Slide Hammer and Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal.
Installation
  1. Lubricate the new rear wheel bearing.
    1. Use Thermally Stable Rear Axle Lubricant XY-80W90-QL or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSP-M2C197-A.
  1. Use Axle Wheel Bearing Replacer with Driver Handle to install the rear wheel bearing.
  1. Lubricate the lip of the new axle shaft oil seal.
    • Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. Use Axle Seal Replacer with Driver Handle to install the axle shaft oil seal.
  1. Install the axle shaft; refer to Axle Shaft in this section.

May 18, 2011 | Ford Explorer Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My duet washer is leaking beacuse the seal is not aligned right, the metal ring that holds the seal in keeps popping ou..any advice?


Carefully pull the nozzle from the window washer tube. Separate the plastic gasket ring from the nozzle. Insert the nozzle through the hole in the boot and slide the plastic gasket ring down the shaft of the nozzle so that the boot is securely trapped between the gasket ring and the nozzle ridge. Insert the nozzle shaft into the window washer inlet tube and insert the end of the water inlet tube into the boot. Fit the boot around the front lip of the tub so it rests smoothly and evenly. Fit the boot clamp around the front lip of the tub and tighten the screw. Be careful not to over tighten this screw. Damage to the boot clamp or the boot could occur.

Jan 26, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

How do you change a wheel seal on a mercury mountaneer 1998 rear end


Axle Vent
NOTE: If the vent cannot be cleared, it must be installed new.
A plugged vent will cause excessive seal lip wear due to internal pressure buildup. If a leak occurs, check the vent. Make sure the vent hose is not kinked. Remove the hose from the vent nipple and clear the hose of any foreign material. While the hose is removed, pass a length of mechanics wire or a small diameter Allen wrench in and out of the vent to clean it. Connect the hose when done. The vent is located on the drivers side top of axle housing.
If you plan on doing most repairs yourself I would suggest buying a Haynes or Chilton manual for your particular vehicle. Or there are some data disks on e.bay($12-$15) For a cost of under $25, you can almost do any repair yourself with these manuals.Also there are online manuals like the site called ALLDATA where guides can be viewed for a fee. All these solutions will save you time and money, and give peace of mind over correct repairs. I can post you some procedures here also.
  1. CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut. Heat can damage the wheel (1007) and the rear wheel bearings (1225).
  2. Loosen the lug nuts (1012).
  3. Remove the center cap.
  4. With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts Raise and support the vehicle. .Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
  5. Remove the lug nuts.
  6. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. Remove the axle housing cover (4033).
    1. Loosen the axle housing cover bolts (4346) and drain the rear axle (4001).
    1. Remove the axle housing cover bolts.
    1. Remove the axle housing cover.
    2. a167554.gif
7.Remove the rear disc brake rotors You will have to remove the brake caliper to get rotor off.
8. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft (4211) has been removed, turning the differential case (4204) or an axle shaft (4234) will cause the differential pinion gears (4215) to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
9.
1.Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt. 2.Remove the differential pinion shaft. 4fd1df0.gif 10.CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves. Remove the U-washers (4N237).
  1. Push the axle shafts inboard.
  2. Remove the U-washers.
  3. 9499075.gif
    11.Reinstall the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Install the differential pinion shaft.
    1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt finger-tight.
    2. 91fc782.gif
      12.CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177). Remove the two axle shafts. 1848771.gif
CAUTION: Never remove the axle shaft oil seal by itself. Always remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal at the same time. NOTE: If the axle shaft oil seal is leaking, the axle housing vent may be plugged with debris. Use Impact Slide Hammer and Axle Wheel Bearing Puller to remove the rear wheel bearing and the axle shaft oil seal.

0ffed5b.gifAxle bearing puller end..
Installation
Lubricate the lip of the inner wheel bearing oil seal.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B.
  1. CAUTION: Once the differential pinion shaft has been removed, turning the differential case or an axle shaft will cause the differential pinion gears to fall out of the assembly. This could result in chipped or damaged components.
  2. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  3. Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
  4. Remove the differential pinion shaft.
  5. 5a472e0.gif
    CAUTION: Do not damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal. Install the two axle shafts. CAUTION: Do not damage the rubber O-rings in the U-washer grooves. Install the U-washers.
    1. Position the two U-washers on the button end of the axle shafts.
    1. Pull the axle shafts outward.
    2. 345272a.gif
      Install the differential pinion shaft.
      1. Align the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the differential pinion shaft lock bolt hole.
      1. Install the differential pinion shaft lock bolt.
      2. 49e064a.gif
                                                            Install the rear disc brake rotors; Install the axle housing cover and fill the rear axle housing (4010) with 2.4 liters (5.5 pints) of specified lubricant
                                                            WARNING: Always remove any corrosion, dirt or foreign material that may be present on the mounting surfaces of the wheel or the surface of the wheel hub or rear disc brake rotor that contacts the wheel. Installing wheels without proper metal-to-metal contact at the wheel mounting surfaces can cause the lug nut to loosen and the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, causing loss of control. Clean the wheel hub and mounting surfaces. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
                                                            Position the tire and wheel assembly. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle. Tighten the lug nuts. Install the center cap. 6a78fd6.gif WHEW Hope this can help you

                                                            Mar 21, 2010 | 1998 Mercury Mountaineer

                                                            1 Answer

                                                            My transmission is leaking..plz help!


                                                            If it isn't leaking from the Input seal, (The seal where the torque converter shaft goes into), then I suggest it's leaking from the Front Pump seal. Torque converter removed, look at the large round object, that has bolts going around it, and a shaft coming out the middle. The Input seal is in the middle. The large round object is the Front Pump. There is a large rubber O-ring that goes around the Front Pump. This O-ring can deteriorate, and leak. It can also blow out partially, due to inner damage of a spring clutch.

                                                            One thing I would like to advise you on. The Inner seal installation.

                                                            You should use the proper tool to remove it. You should use a seal puller. Also, when using a seal puller, the seal puller head can dig into the Front Pump cast iron case.
                                                            This can create a gouge, in the recess where the outside of the seal sits. This will create an area to leak.
                                                            Use caution when removing an Inner seal, and only have the seal puller head just far enough in, that it catches about half, of the inner seal -> metal outer ring. Past the rubber part of the seal, past the spring, and onto the metal outer ring of the seal itself. But, not far enough that the seal puller head will touch the Front Pump case recess.

                                                            If you did gouge the recess of the Front Pump case, clean the area with a clean shop rag. Use a half round file, and carefully remove the burr that the gouge creates. When a gouge is created, it upsets the metal. The gouge makes a 'valley', and a burr is created on the top edges of this 'valley'. That burr needs to be filed down to the rounded recess surface. Follow up with sandpaper. Wipe it out with a clean shop rag. Wrap a clean shop rag around the shaft, so that no metal fillings can get inside the Front Pump, and blow that recess out with air. Wipe the recess area again, with a clean shop rag.

                                                            To install an Inner seal, lightly coat the outside metal ring of the seal, with silicone. I use high temp Red. Failure to do this may cause a leak. Do this if you have a gouge or not. If you have a gouge, put a little extra silicone in that gouge, and fill it up. Don't use too much, but make sure the gouge is filled.

                                                            Either use a seal installation tool, or fabricate one out of Schedule 80 pipe, and have one end milled flat, and the corners rounded a little. The pipe must be large enough to fit against the flat outer lip of the seal.
                                                            Put the seal in place. Push on it, try to keep it flat and even. Put the seal installation tool on the seal. Tap on one side of the installation tool, then tap on the other, until you get a good start. Good start being the seal starts to go in, and is even all the way around. Then take you hammer, and tap around the outside edge of the installation tool. Go around and around. Watch how the seal is going in. If it starts to tilt off to one side, stop. Remove the seal. Start over. It must go in even all the way around, as it's being installed.

                                                            Failure to keep it even as it's installed, will twist the seal, and the seal's spring will pop out. Now you have a twisted seal, and no spring. The seal is junk!

                                                            BE SURE, to apply a thin light coat of transmission fluid, to the inner part of the seal. The area where the torque converter shaft will spin in. FAILURE to do this, might cause the torque converter shaft to twist, the inner rubber part of the seal, and twist the seal in half. The seal is then junk!

                                                            Apr 24, 2009 | 1994 Mitsubishi Mirage

                                                            1 Answer

                                                            Whirlpool 8255e Super Capacity: How to replace drain pump?


                                                            Sounds like the drain pump has been leaking from the seal where the motor shaft goes into it. Usually you pop off the 2 metal clips, and pull the drain pump off the motor shaft.
                                                            If yours won't come off easily, chances are the motor shaft has expanded from corrosion, seizing the drain pump onto it. You can try prying it off by wedging a screw driver between it and the motor (be careful not to damage the motor). Last resort is to break the drain pump into pieces to remove it.
                                                            You will likely have to sand or file the motor shaft back into shape to install the new drain pump.
                                                            Let me know if you need more help.
                                                            Good luck!

                                                            Mar 13, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

                                                            1 Answer

                                                            Shower spout


                                                            There is a threaded stem that passes through the spout and attaches to the white plastic diveter valve. If you are starting from scratch (everything apart), you can put it back together in this order:
                                                            1) Place the white plastic diverter inside the spout. the circular side with the black round washer should face the the wall side of the shower (mating up against the threads for the water pipe).
                                                            2) The stem can now be inserted from the top and into the notched section of the white plastic diverter valve. The threaded end of the stem shoud be outside of the spout (from the top side).
                                                            3) A round black washer fits over the threads. It should sit right where the threads end. Dont push it all the way on to the unthreaded portion of the stem.
                                                            4) Screw the threaded knob onto the threads.

                                                            Should be ready to install now. Including the spout itself, there are 5 parts and are configured in this order from top to bottom.
                                                            1) Female threaded knob (the knob for operating the spout)
                                                            2) Threaded stem (threads on top)
                                                            3) Round black washer
                                                            4) Spout
                                                            5) Whit plastic diverter valve.

                                                            Mine leaks when I turn on the shower, thus reducing shower pressure. I looks like a poor design to me. The stem is not a tight fit in the spout and this allows the diverter to "wobble". The washer on the diverter valve does not seat tightly and allows water to leak out the tub spout when showering. I would replace the spout.

                                                            Jan 30, 2009 | Price Pfister 01-311 Shower Head, Tub...

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                                                            Water leaking from white plastic peice under washer


                                                            If this piece had 2 hoses attached and slides onto the motor, then it is the pump. you will need to replace it. Part # 3363394 available both new (27.99) and used (9.99) from timerking.com Hope this helps!

                                                            Jan 07, 2009 | Roper RAS6233KQ Top Load Washer

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                                                            Lawnmower lbade assembly sequence


                                                            1. install round washer first flat side facing you.
                                                            2. round plastic washer next flat side facing the washer.
                                                            3. next step blade.
                                                            4. next step square plastic washer label facing you.
                                                            5. then the square metal washer, make it flash with the shaft flat side.
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                                                            Jun 08, 2008 | Black & Decker 19" Electric Lawnhog...

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                                                            Kenmore top loading washer model 110-9259220 90 series has a very slow leak


                                                            Once you have the console open and the cabinet removed, take off your tub ring (the white plastic cover over basket) and you agitator. Unfortuneately, you're right there is a special tool for removing the 4 notched nut. I would check with my local appliance part store or order it from the manufactures web site. I belive they call it a spanner wrench. After that, your basket will lift out.

                                                            Apr 14, 2008 | Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

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