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Any seal that pops out like that is indicative of a bent shaft. As the shaft turns it oscillates the seal until it wiggles free. There wasn't an internal circlip that goes in after the seal was there? If there was, there would be a narrow machined channel just inside the casting. If that was missing, any movement would allow the seal to come free.
Sorry to hear of the passing of your husband. I was widowed in 1996 and in Feb 2014. Life has to go on and improve.
If the rams in the cylinders are moving without any control operation it means either of two things. --- the piston bucket seals in the cylinders are failing and the oil is by-passing the piston or there is a badly worn cylinder which amounts to the same thing or the control valves are leaking at the seats and allowing oil to by-pass back to the tank. To check the piston seals push the rams all the way out. Loosen off the pipe at the seal end and if the piston seals are leaking there will be a fluid flow from that line . If the seals are good there will be no oil flow.. That way you will know if it is the cylinder/ piston problem or control valves.
You need a new ice maker. The seal in the shaft is bad. The icemaker is a throw away no repair parts. Sears parts has them for 125-130 dollars. These icemaker only last about 2-5yrs. I hope this helps.
A hissing sound when depressing the brake pedal is an indication that the booster is leaking. Another indication is that the pedal will be more difficult to push down before starting the car after it has been sitting for a while. A faulty brake booster will only make it more difficult to apply the brakes. However, it should be noted that a leak in the booster may be caused by brake fluid leaking from the master cylinder into the booster and this could become a dangerous problem.
I had the same problem. The plastic tube that routes the water out the back doesn't fit tightly. It took a couple of weeks but the bucket would fill and the darn thing would shut off.
My first attempt was to put a hose clamp over the adapter. The clamp was simple enough but then the bucket wouldn't go back in. Using a small saw, I carefully cut a notch in the bucket. WARNING: Make sure that whatever you cut doesn't reach low enough that when the bucket fills, the little float thingy shuts off the unit before it starts to leak. Anyway, that still leaked. The problem is that that plastic tube is stiff and slippery and doesn't seal well.
What finally worked for me was to take the adapter off, go to the hardware store and buy some clear plastic tubing. I found some that fit very tightly over the tube inside and, with the hose clamp, sealed well.
hi this sounds like the oil seal that is in the gearbox/transmission is worn, which is oddly called drive shafttransmissionoil seal..there is no special name for it, unless you have the correct tools for the job this can be a bit of a long job, mostlydisconnecting the ball joints from the hub there are special tools to do that, but once you have the drive shaft out, its a simple case of pulling the old one out and tapping in the new one, make sure you have a bucket or something to catch the oil in when the drive shaft comes out, it makes allot of mess..its probably about a 2 to 3 hour job for an armature to do with the right tools...the seal is probably about 10 to 15 bucks may be cheaper...hope this helps
Your rear tail shaft seal is leaking and it can be replaced, you may have a worn shaft and will need to buy a speedy sleave at any parts store and a new rear transmisson seal both costs about $20.00 and is not to hard to change, you need to replace the fluid with Dexron II or Dexron III or the new fluid that works in all cars. If you need more help let me know.