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Don't really need a wiring diagram, although there may be one inside switch area. (make sure to put it back again if it is there) Will need the full model number to get you the part number you need. (model number usually on a sticker near where the electrical wire enters the cook top)
Turn off power to cook top. Open cover to switches. Pull two "pilot" (usually smaller spade terminals) off the switch for the right front burner, and insulate each with a bit of electrical tape. Turn power back on to see if light now off. If yes, replace that switch. If no, replace those wires and repeat procedure with the next switch until you find the bad switch. Send a comment if you need additional help.
It sounds like somebody clean up the stove and the electric sending unid is wet, try this: the knob that correspond to the ingniter that it's clicking nonestop, take the knob out and you will see the sending unit, pull it out unplug it and dry it out and then try it again, it should work properly after it's dry.
Tupper Lake NY
I just had the same problem- when I replaced the whole cartridge. I repalced the infinite switch- do the one that gets the hottest- or do both. It is easy to do- just write down the wiring diagram - make sure all power is off- cost of new switch was about $37.00 This solved the problem- however make sure to check the sizng on the new switch shaft as my old knob would not fit properly on the shaft of the new switch. good luck
I did not receive instructions with my G E Profile cook top Model No. 80030750434). There is a build up on the elements which I am having problems removing. Should the top be scraped while the stove is hot or cold? What is the best cleaning product to use?
Hi - I've been having the same problem. GE tech service in St. Louis, MO has been a joke. 1st tech call cancelled 30 minutes before appointment. 2nd tech call to diagnose the F153 code I had already provided when I scheduled service on-line cost $74.95 and the tech didn't have the part on his truck. 3rd tech call a new tech shows up, has no knowledge of previous call diagnosis, opens the box sent to my home by GE and announces that the previous guy ordered the wrong part! We're on the 4th call. My cook top right front burner has not worked for a month. I've contacted GE corporate. The part you need (at least I need) for the right front burner which is a large burner is: WB30T10062. If I knew how to, I'd repair this myself. I don't have the extended warranty. The part is covered because my cooktop is only two years old (parts warrantied for five years) but labor is estimated to cost almost $200....plus the $74.95 "diagnostic" visit. A total rip-off. My advice, if you've got this cooktop, it's still under warranty and you aren't using all of the burners on a regular basis: start using them! The tech guy said most people use that front right burner alot and it eventually malfunctions (code F153). His suggestion was to start using the other burners on a regular basis, too, so that when they go out, at least the part will fall under the five-year warranty! When this cook top is done, I'm going to get a gas stove with "old fashioned burners" and it won't be GE!