Saw will not start. Have emptied all gas and started with fresh mix. Also changed spark plug with new and pre-gapped. New air filter. Have cleaned contacts of flywheel and housing with electronics cleaner to remove any oil or dirt that may be there. Have gone through the starting sequince with the bulb primer, etc. Am now at wits end and the thing will still not start. HELP!!!!!
have done the following: fresh gas mix-dumped all old gas changed spark plug with pre-gapped new plug changed air filter with new cleaned contacts on flywheel and saw-sprayed with electronics cleaner to remove dirt and oil, etc. looks clean. have gone through starting proceedures, ie. pump bulb, full choke, half choke, no choke. still this saw will not start. was cutting log when saw quit. thought it just got to worm and let it sit a while and has not started since. sure need help on this.
the old ignition number is 530039198 and MA-15. The new ignition number
is 530052277 and MA-24. Are these two units compatible for the same
saw? I bought the new one from a dealer that pulled this from the web
site but with the difference in part numbers i'm not sure whether or
not these are comparable with each other.
According to Sear partsdiect.com "Manufacturer authorized substitution: 530052277 may differ in appearance, but is a functional equivalent to prior parts including 530039198." I'm going to try cleaning any elctrical contacts n the flywheel assy first then if thatoes't do it I'll order the ignition module. Mine will eventualy start but I'm having to pullit about 30 times, literally, and I wke up durng the night my arms aches so badly! Pullthe top cover and the module is a the end of the spark lug wire. Looks like it's only held in with a couple of screws.
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The ignition unit is a small assemby fixed to the side of the cylinder with two screws, there is more than one unit type fitted to this model so i cannot give you the part no, most of the units will have the part no. on them, remove the top cover held with three screws, now remove the starter held with four screws, you will now see the ignition unit, pull the cap off from the spark plug, remove the eart cut out wire from the terminal on the unit, now remove the two screws holding the unit to the cylinder, once the unit is of check the top for the part no. check the web for a new unit, refit the new unit too the cylinder, use a feelr gauge to set the 0.3mm gap between the flywheel magnets and the ignition unit core, re connect the cut out wire. Before doing all of this i should have said you need to give the engine a good crank over to check for a spark with the old unit with the cut out wire removed.
Remove the spark plug and check for spark. If snappy and blue with a fresh plug gapped at 0.020", then pour a little fuel mix into the plug hole and try for start. If it pops or runs for a few seconds, then look for fuel delivery problems. Check the fuel filter, air cleaner, and muffler for plugging. Check the fuel lines for decay or other problems. If no help, remove the carburetor, disassemble and clean the interior with spray carburetor cleaner. Inspect the diaphragm in the lower chamber for flexibility with no holes or cracks. Make sure the fuel is fresh and properly mixed with a modern synthetic saw oil. Be sure to shake the container thoroughly each time time just before filling the tank to prevent oil starvation. Hope this helps!
Check the fuel filter, air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Be sure the fuel and oil mix is thoroughly shaken just before filling the tank each time to prevent oil starvation. Set the plug gap to 0.020" and test the spark for being blue and snappy. If weak looking, remove the left side engine cover to expose the flywheel and ignition module. Turn the flywheel so that the magnets are just under the module poles, insert a thin business card into the gaps, loosen the module screws to allow the poles to contact the magnets. Tighten the screws, turn the flywheel somewhat to remove the card, then turn the flywheel one full turn to make sure the gaps don't close up further. Replace the cover and retest spark--if ok, try for start. Hope this helps!
The spark should be blue and snappy. Try a new plug--any help? If not, it may need a new ignition module. Check the flywheel magnets--they should be quite strong. The module gap with the magnets underneath the poles should be about business card thickness. Check the air cleaner and muffler for plugging. Hope this gets it running!
Chain saws are very intense, small and powerful engines. They are also very demanding. they require fresh gas, proper mix, a clean air filter, a new and properly gapped spark plug and a clean carbeurator. If any of these items need to be replaced do it first.
Now, let's clean the carbeurator. Get a bottle of a fuel additive called seafoam and follow the directions as you add it to the gas can you use to fill your saw. After you run a couple of tanks of this new and improved fuel thru your saw you will solve your problem.
This is not really a solution.... I can't post a comment. I think you know where I was going with the flywheel thing - whether or not the timing is right. I thought you'd pulled the flywheel yourself, and sorry, I'm not sure how to pull it. I'm assuming this is a 2 stroke motor... you might want to just check that the piston is near top dead center when the magnet on the flywheel hits the coil..... you can stick a pencil or anything long through the spark plug hole to give you an indication if the piston is at the top of the cylinder or not. Let me know how it goes!