Question about Maytag MGR5875QD CleanDesign Gas Kitchen Range

4 Answers

Maytag MGR58750DB oven not working properly

The oven will not heat to the selected temperture. It will slowly heat up but then stop. For example, if you select 425, it will slowly heat up and the maximum it will get to is 200.

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  • 2 more comments 
  • bberg Dec 24, 2008

    So how do I fix that? If the door is closing properly....

  • bberg Dec 24, 2008

    Is it easy enough to replace: the sensor?

    the thermostat?

  • bberg Jan 02, 2009

    This started happening after the oven was run through a self clean cycle, can this have caused it?

  • bberg Jan 05, 2009

    Thanks. This seems to be the problem. How long should these last?

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4 Answers

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Hi bberg thats your ignitor.its right at the brink of failing.so because of its weakness it lets some gas in then gives up and then will try again.its located under the oven pan and a failing one will have a soft glow,new one a brite glow.you can buy one one line or at your local appliance store.about 50$.please help me with my rating if i have been helpful.God bless ypur house,tom

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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Note that in some cases, but not all, when the fan oven element fails it will trip the consumer unit's rcd. Once it is reset the following symptoms will be apparent:
1. Fan oven is not heating up, however
2. The fan in the oven is working fine, and
3. All other functions of the oven are working ok
4. The thermostat light does not go out.
5. On removal of the Fan Oven Element (see below) there are visual signs of burning, blowing, or splitting etc.
6. Using a test meter the Fan Oven Element is ‘open circuit’.

First of all ALWAYS isolate the oven/cooker from the mains supply.  If your oven is ‘hard-wired’ in then turn it off at the wall AND at the consumer unit.  These types of installations SHOULD have there own circuit to isolate at the consumer unit.  NEVER rely on the switch alone.  Some of the modern single built in ovens use a standard plug; ensure that it is removed before you attempt to replace your fan oven element.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • Antonio Buenafe Jr.
    Antonio Buenafe Jr. Jan 03, 2009

    yes it can cause it, especially if you were not isolate the main switch pattern,, in you have a general clean on it,, you should open and put a safety measures on it to prevent contaminant

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  • Master
  • 1,029 Answers

  1. Make sure the controls are set properly: that the oven selector switch is set correctly and that the temperature switch is set to the desired temperature. Where applicable, make sure the oven timer is set to manual.
  2. If nothing else on the Range, Oven or Cooktop is working then:
    1. Check the circuit breaker or fuse.
    2. Test for power.
  3. Test the oven elements
  4. Test the oven thermostat.
  5. Test the oven selector switch.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 4 more comments 
  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Dec 24, 2008

    The oven heating elements are large resistor wires with enough resistance to generate significant heat. There are two heating elements in each oven: a bake element and a broil element. The bake element is found on the bottom of the oven, while the broil element is found on the roof of the oven. On some models, the bake and broil elements will work simultaneously to preheat the oven cavity

  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Dec 24, 2008


    1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


    2. To access the bake element open the oven door, remove the oven racks and then remove the screws that hold the element in place.


    3. There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning, reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.


    4. To remove and test the bake element, slide the element forward and remove the wires by removing the screws from the terminals or by pulling wires off the bake element terminals. Remember to label the wires for future reference.


    5. Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.


    6. Test the element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter, set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms. Readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage. Be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.


    7. If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.


    8. To test for a grounded bake element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Remember to test both terminals.


    9. To install a new back bake element, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 4 above) and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install wires to the correct terminals.

  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Dec 24, 2008


    1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


    2. To access the broil element located on the roof of the oven cavity, first open the oven and remove the oven racks. Remove the screws that secure the element to the oven, remove the holding brackets from the element and slide the element forward.


    3. There is normally a small amount of excess wiring attached to the terminals on the element that allow a little room for maneuverability (you may have to tilt the element to get the terminals through the holes). Look for loose or disconnected wires and if there is no sign of burning; reconnect the wiring to the back of the terminal. If a terminal end is damaged, replace it with a terminal end designed specifically for oven use only.


    4. To test the broil element, remove the wires from the broil element terminals by removing the screws from the terminal or pulling the wires off the broil element terminal. Remember to label the wires for reinstallation.


    5. Visually check the entire element for signs of burn.


    6. Test the broiler element for continuity. Using the ohmmeter set the range scale on R x 1 and place the probes on the element terminals. There should be continuity, with readings ranging from 19 to 115 ohms, however readings will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer and according to unit size and the wattage, be sure to check your manual for the manufacturer's specifications.


    7. If there are any signs of element burning, or if there is no continuity, replace the element.


    8. To test for a grounded broil element, place one probe on the element outer surface and the other on the element terminal as in the ground test for the baking element. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced. Be sure to test both terminals.


    9. To test a dual broil element, remove the wires from their terminals. Using the ohmmeter, set the range on R x 1. Place the probes on terminals A and C to check for continuity, followed by terminals B and C. To test for a grounded element, place one probe on the element outer surface. With the other probe, touch terminal A, followed by B and then C. If continuity exists, the element has shorted and should be replaced.


    10. To install a new broil element, simply reverse the disassembly procedures and reassemble, being sure to follow the wiring diagram and install the wires to the correct terminals

  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Dec 24, 2008

    Oven Thermostat Testing:
    An oven thermostat is a switch that opens and closes in response to the temperature it senses. It is typically found in the control panel, where a liquid-filled temperature-sensing bulb senses and maintains the internal oven temperature by cycling heat on and off.


    1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!


    2. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model:

      1. On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends.
      2. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components
      3. Some built-in models have a removable backsplash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the backsplash, which holds the rear panel.
      4. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you.
      5. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.


    3. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
      Adjusting the thermostat:

    4. Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature.


    5. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.


    6. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.


    7. To remove the thermostat:

      1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
      2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.

      To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures (Step 7 above), transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.

  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Dec 24, 2008

    Oven Selector Dial Testing:



    In order to test the oven selector dial on your electric range, the following steps should be taken:


    1. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution!
    2. In order to gain access to the oven selector dial, first move the range away from the wall and remove the back cover panel by undoing the retaining screws. This will expose the back of the oven selector dial.
      Note: There are many styles of ranges. If this does not describe your range, refer to your owner's manual for instructions on gaining access to your oven selector dial.
    3. Now you can begin to test each pair of switch contacts for continuity with your VOM. Using the ohmmeter function, set the range scale to R x 1, and touch one test lead to each terminal of the switch contacts to be tested. There will be several pairs of contacts, one pair for each setting (eg. broil, bake, etc.). Refer carefully to your wiring diagram (often placed on the inside of the access panel) when testing. It is a good idea to label the wires as you test and only remove one pair of wires at a time. If there is no continuity between any pair of contacts, the switch is defective and must be replaced.
    4. To install a new oven selector dial switch, remove the old switch from the control panel by undoing the nut or screws holding the switch in place, leaving all wires attached. Transfer the wires one at a time from the old switch to the correct terminal of the new switch. Check your wiring diagram to make sure all wires are on the correct terminals. Now mount the new switch to the back of the control panel and replace the cover.


  • Starnley Johnwells
    Starnley Johnwells Dec 24, 2008

    hope this helps goodluck and merry xmas

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  • Master
  • 1,550 Answers

Your thermostat is not working properly also check whether door is closing properly .

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • SAM ANDERSON Dec 24, 2008

    Your oven sensor is bad . Yo can get one from the link below

    Sensor for maytag

    You need to replace it . If your problem still continues it indicates that you need to replace the thermostat part in your oven


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1 Answer

Oven not working properly


Do you mean 200 degrees Celcius or Farenheit? If Farenheit then the most likely culprit would be the thermocouple in the oven which can usually be replaced relatively easily by someone mechanically minded, if Celsius then you should suspect the elements although a working broiler would suggest that there is at least one element that works fine. Maytag says; "Why won't the oven heat up? First, make sure you've properly set all the oven controls. Check your user's guide for more information on your model's controls.(see below for the link to the manual if you need it) If your range offers the option of a delayed oven start, check to see if it's been selected. If so, the oven won't begin to heat until the selected time. If your oven has a lockout feature, check to see if it's been selected. If so, it will prevent you from using the oven. If your oven still won't operate, please contact an authorized Maytag service provider for more assistance." Here is the link to the manual; http://www.maytag.com/assets/product/8113P564-60.PDF and here is the link to Maytag Service if you need it - hopefully not; http://www.maytag.com/support/service_parts.jsp The other possible culprit would be the electrical supply to the oven - it may be adequate for the stovetop or grill but the oven may draw more power than the circuit can handle - even if it was fine before, this can change and may be caused by corrosion, rodents, overloading etc. and may not necessarily trip the breaker switch - if you suspect this at all then get a qualified electrician to check - it shouldn't take long to check so should be cheap, although repairs if necessary may cost more Hope this helps :)

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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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heatman101

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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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heatman101


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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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heatman101

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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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heatman101

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If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right, then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

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If your electric2_bing.gif oven is not heating then you probably have a bad heating element in your oven. This is not that hard to fix yourself...
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