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I have baseboard heat in my house (hydronic(?) - not electric). The 3 bedrooms upstairs are always 3 VERY different temperatures. My daughter's room is always cold, sons' room is like the Sahara and our room is comfortable. I searched for valves at either end of the pipes (to bleed?) but found nothing. What should I do?

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What it sound like is that your sons room is the closest room to the boiler and is getting too much of the heates water. your room is probebly the room in the middle and your daughters is the last one. Lets start bye taking and shutting down the valves in youe sons room and or adjusting the circuit setters which is what you probebly have . THey should by on the return line and you can adjust them by just closing them down a little bit at a time or if you have a way to take the temperature of the return and the supply lines then you would try to shoot for around 10 delta t. look at the baseboard heaters where the water come in and that should be where you will find the circuit setters. Good Luck and have a Merrry Christmas

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

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I'm looking to purchase a Rudd 2 stage model, 16 SEER, 5 ton along with a 100000 BTU 95% furnace. I have a two story home and will only be using the 1 AC. Will the Rudd cool both floors?


Assuming that there are ducts ran upstairs and downstairs, it all depends on the square footage of the living spaces, i.e. bedrooms, living room, dining room, etc. You need an average of 1 cfm per sq ft. For every 1 ton of air, you have an average of 400cfms. So your 5 ton unit will cool/heat 2000 sq ft. A 16 seer unit with a 95% furnace is a nice buy and you will notice the difference for sure. Hope this helps!

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The issue may not be confined to airflow alone. An air conditioner makes us more comfortable through two basic rules of physics.
It removes sensible heat (the temperature you feel) and removes moisture from the air. Dry air enhances the bodies own cooling system allowing perspiration to evaporate more quickly which speeds the removal of heat from the body, this is why 85 and dry feels more comfortable than 72 moist degrees.

to ensure the ducts are balanced properly one must use an anemometer which is a tool used to calculate airflow by the pro's. Being that most homeowners do not have access to one there are some good observations to make using a pocket thermometer and your own senses:
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  2. Ensure the supply duct for the suspect vent is the same diameter and approximate distance from the main plenum (where the ducts originate) as the master bedroom.
  3. Is the air emminating from the suspect vent approximately the same in volume as the master bedroom (does it feel and sound the same).
  4. The issue exists even if the guest bedroom door is left open.
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If 1 - 4 are true check for #5, if # 5 is false make sure the suspect ducting is insulated or covered well by attic insulation.

If 1, 2, 3 or 4 are false: Ensure the following:
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  • The duct has not been crushed or restricted.
NOTE: internaly insulated ducts can be restricted on the inside by fallen insulation while appearing normal on the outside.

If #5 is false (issue goes away if the door is left open) the door may need to be cut off a bit more at the bottom or a grill installed to allow the air coming into the room a place to go.

If none of the above reveal the culprit concider the room itelf, it may have a higher heat load than the others.
A higher heat load may be due to dislodged, compacted and or wet insulation in the walls or attic, feel the walls and ceilings with your hands, how does it compare with cooler rooms?
If the walls and ceiling feel about the same and the tests above did not expose an issue its time to call the contractor back in, make sure the static pressure is checked in each duct a foot or so downstream of the the plenum and again just upstream of the vent. A duct with air pressure higher or lower when compared with the others could mean a variety of issues with the duct or where it connects to the plenum.

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1 Answer

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