Question about New World Spirit 110 (Gas) Kitchen Range

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Problem with gas double oven

Our double gas oven(new world image 1000 mk 2}seems to have an ignitor problem. when you light up one plate you can hear the ignitor coming on at another plate which you are not wanting to come on. does this make sense?? could you assist me please.. roddy

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Re: problem with gas double oven

Im in uk not us so don't know this particular appliance. however many gas appliances turn on the ignitors for other parts than the one required - ie if one burner on a hob is lit, the other ignitors spark as well. suspect you don't really have a fault

Posted on Apr 16, 2007

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My elderly neighbour is trying to light her Hygena Classi Oven built in when she turns the knob to the required number no gas is coming out to light it.

Hello Jean;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

There are several different components that may be at fault for this problem. The most probable is a bad gas ignitor. Your ignitor may either be broken or too weak to open the gas valve.

On built in wall ovens:
1.) Remove the oven door. Tilt it out to where is stays slightly open and lift straight up. When replacing the oven door make sure the hinges that the door mounts on are pulled slightly out to slide the door back on.
2.) Remove the cover on the bottom of the oven. You will see the gas burner and in the center of the back wall the gas ignitor.
3.) To replace the ignitor, you will have to remove the two plates below the ignitor.

Locate your oven model number. It is on a label either on the face of the oven after you open the door or on the side of the door.

Go into the internet and search; "Ignitor and your model number".

Make sure both your oven gas and electrical power are turned off before you do anything!

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1 Answer

Kitchenaid gas oven very slow to start - can be 5 - 10 minutes before I hear it kick on. For a while I could get it to start by turning on a gas burner, but that is 100% effective. Any suggestions? Also...

Replace your ignitor, this is a very common problem. As the ignitor gets older, it gets weaker. When it gets weaker, it usually starts out by not giving good temps in the oven, then it starts to take longer and longer before it lights the oven burner, then it stops lighting the burner completely. A good ignitor heats up fast, allows the current to flow through to the gas valve, opens the gas valve and lights the oven burner within 30 to 50 seconds. When you order your ignitor ask if their is a cheaper generic ignitor for this model. Their can be a huge price difference in some units. You can also have a bad sensor, control board, gas valve, or wiring problem, however for the last 15 or so years every job I have done with your problem has been an ignitor. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists

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Oven wont light unless you turn on a stove eye and


Sound`s to me you need a new hot surface ignitor. Sorry to hear you may have changed the valve & regulator for nothing, but that happen`s quite often when you get the symptom`s you`ve described, I`ve even seen tech`s. do it. The reality is 9 times out of 10 when a hot surface ignition gas/lpg oven won`t light it is the ignitor.

Pick up part number 74007498 for approx. $40 and you`ll be cooking.

Hope that help`s. If so please take a second and rate the solution I provided here at fixya for you.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)

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When ignitor gets worn it will come on but not get hot enough to open the gas valve. You will need a new ignitor

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Model fgf334bgwj gas range oven will not operate. I removed the oven bottom plate and deflection plate , the glow bar turns on but no gas flows to ignitor? Is it the gas safety valve?

When the ignitor glows brightly and the oven doesn't light it is usually a defective ignitor. The way to know if the ignitor is good or bad is to read the amp draw of the ignitor with an amp or watt meter. The gas valve and the ignitor are wired in series and for the gas valve to draw the current the ignitor has to draw 3.5-3.8 amps.If the ignitor is drawing 3.5-3.8 amps the new gas valve is defective. If it is drawing less amps the ignitor is defective.

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First the ignitor must glow very bright / compare the broiler ignitor to the bake on... the ignitor must pull 3.6 amps to open the gas valve... so even if it does glow it must glow bright and evenly to pull the 3.6 amp... you can test it if you have an AMP meter...

Gas valve do fail but it is rare... it is most likely a weak ignitor... hope it help please let me know...

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Part of the problem was my own ignorance about this particular Kenmore gas oven. It doesn't even have a pilot light. Instead, there is an electric heating element close to the burner which gets so hot that it ignites the gas. It seems that the heating element also doubles as a temperature sensor, so that it opens the gas valve only when the heating element is hot enough to ignite the gas. This heating element, called the "ignitor", no longer gets hot in my oven even though there is 120VAC applied to it when the oven knob is turned on. Therefore, the ignitor is defective. I ordered a new one on-line from "Appliance Parts of America" for $31.50 plus shipping, and this should fix the problem. If it does NOT, I'll add to this post.

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1 Answer

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Sandwich, is it your bake or broil thats not working? You have two ignitors, one for bake and broil. One of them is your culprit. This is not a hard job. The post header says broil not working so the part number for that is WB13K0003. Bake ignitor is WB13K0004. To get at the bake ignitor you have to remove the oven bottom inside panel, remove the flame spreader (both easy). The click you are hearing is the board relay sending power to the ignitor. The ignitor has to draw so many amps to open the gas valve. The oven is pilotless. back.

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Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. back.

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