Perhaps there's been some problems with the White Mountain machines since the company was bought out by Rival, the company that makes the cheap *** 30 dollar freezer machines. We have had great success using them to make lots of home mead ice cream and the last time I took the transmission apart, ours had a "dab" of grease in there. I cleaned everything out and used Mobile 1 red synthetic wheel bearing grease. Not filling it full of grease mind you, but using a q tip and making sure all moving parts had lube. As to why yours didn't have any on it, can't help you there unles it had been used so much that it was all gone, but a ne wmachine?; that's a problem. Their warranty dept will give you a new motor within the first 5 years of ownership if you can send them a copy of the recelipt and $10 for shipping. they don't even want the old motor unit back!!!
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The unit needs two fans running and good airflow, one fan outside cools the condensor coil and the other inside the unit blowing across the evaporator coil, warming it. The compressor must start up. The defrost timer stops everything and switches on a heating element to defrost the evaporator for several minutes. Please verify these conditions. The condensor coil may get clogged with dirt and lint, the evaporator may get clogged with ice build up, or the fan may quit working due to bad bearings, need for lubrication, or burn out. The defrost timer has an internal motor and contacts which may quit working, some have a way to manualy turn it to switch its mode in case it quits working.
Need to have an appliance tech look at it. Some motors have a current limit/thermal cutout inside. Does it cut off without being attached to bucket? Is motor gearbox bound up somehow? If motor is removed from gearbox and turns, then gearbox needs some lube or is otherwise defective/seized
The parts department charges $150 for this motor.
My 6 qt electric was making noise and finally quit spinning. I pulled it apart and the change gear (gear reducer) was wallowed out. This meant the gear rocked away from the motor's drive gear. I called White Mountain to see if I could get a replacement gear and they said I'd voided the warranty because I took the 3 screws out to pull apart. Basically, they are using **** gears, know it, and doing the song and dance to not have to replace. So, I've got a motor that works, housing, and one bad gear that makes the whole unit worthless.
Yea, I can definitely help.
The fuse is designed to keep the wires in the house and in the fridge from melting, shorting and catching fire. Many laws have been passed which are designed to inhibit people increasing fuse size and burning down the house.
In the event that an electric motor sees a hard life, the insulation on the windings inside will begin to burn due to heat. In the case of your fridge compressor, the oil may also become burnt. In either case, there will be a reduction in the resistance. Either from winding to winding because they are sort of touching each other because the insulation was burnt or from the motor though the oil to the case because the oil has been burnt.
The reduction in electrical resistance will case the motor to request more power, which will, in turn, produce more heat, which will cause a reduction in electrical resistance which will cause the motor to request more power, which will in turn produce more heat... Do you get the picture? It is call thermal runaway.
The law requires fuses and other forms of current protection for the purposes of stopping thermal runaway before your house burns down.
The relay may need replaced. This, however, would be another problem on top of the one you already have. The motor drawing to much juice will cause a relay to go bad. The relay is designed at minimal specs (all engineers trying to save money) to operate the fridge when it is working properly. Along with every other part in the fridge.
The relay going bad is only the beginning of your extra problems in the event that you continue to operate the fridge without fixing the actual cause of your problems.
I usually smile, but in your case, facts must be faced.
Need to have an appliance tech look at it. Some motors have a current limit/thermal cutout inside. Does it cut off without being attached to bucket? Is motor gearbox bound up somehow? If motor is removed from gearbox and turns, then gearbox needs some lube or is otherwise defective/seized.
I have a White Moutain freezer motor that is two years old and had the same problem as yours. During my last batch of ice cream the motor was spinning but the beater wasn't turning. I removed the motor and the square drive was spinning but I could stop it with my finger, there was no power like a gear or clutch was shot. I called the 1-800 number on the motor and they said they would send me a new motor. I didn't need to show a receipt or anything. All they wanted me to do was return the broken motor and they even supplied paid postage. I recomend you call them and ask for a new motor.
Take a hair dryer and heat the auger drive gear. These will sometimes get moisture on them and freeze up. Turn the refrigerator off first. Then remove the ice bin. The "U" shaped drive will be in the back. After you have heated it thoroughly, try to move the gear manually. Resume power and try it again.
I am intimately familiar with the 6 qt electric model, so let me give it a whirl. Our church uses 5 of these things to make 90 gallons of ice cream for the church ice cream social each summer, so they do hold up.
Your problem could be several things. The first thing I would do is to take the drive unit by itself and plug it in to the electrical outlet and see if it makes the same noise as when totally assembled. If it does, we'll deal with that in a minute. If it worked okay disconnected, then there's something binding in the dasher or the pivot piece in the bottom of the wood bucket. Once the mix is in the stainless canister and centered on the pivot bump, the dasher spindle that sticks out from the top of the canister lid fits in a certain way and then you must rotate the canister to get the lid to properly seat in the drive unit. Once all that is in place, it should clamp down properly on the bucket.
If the motor sounds the same as when assembled, then you could check to see if there's any lubricant in the gear housing(yellow metal thing the motor sits on). It's just a couple of screws to remove to take a peek. White mountain will get you a new motor assembly for a $10 shipping fee if you can produce a copy of the original sales receipt. the warranty is good for 5 years. Call 800-343-0065(old number but should stil be good).
One tip on making ice cream; when you get it going, don't cool the mixture too quickly as it makes the product really icy tasting and sort of "crunchy". If you get really crazy, monitor the temperature of the brine with an infrared temp gun or one of those thermometers with the remote probes. 8-12 degrees Fareinheit is ideal and that can be achieved by using a 5-1 ratio of ice to salt. If the temp gets below that, add some water or more ice. If the temp isn't getting down to 12 degrees, then add more salt. a cup of salt is usually good for about a 5 degree drop. Make sure you use the Morton Rock salt in the red box at the store. Water softener salt and regular table salt will either melt too slowly or too quickly for best results. Also make sure your ice has been at least partially crushed or it won't melt fast enough. Cubes need al ot of crushing, and even the ice from the convenience stor needs a wooden mallet taken to it before using. We had an old Alaskan ahand cranked ice crusher that worked perfectly. It was made back in the ealry 1900's. bought it on ebay for like $30. Our recipe comes out perfect after about 17-20 minutes of churning. the white mountain motor is strong enough that it will keep on spinning the product until it tuns it into butter, so a timer is critical for best results. Great ice crema making info on the web from the Universitry of Guelph in Ontario Canada.
I expereinced the same problem and the only solution I could come up with was to have the gear fabricated. I made a few fro backup. I haven't used any in the two years since i fixed mine. I can sell you a replacement gear or you can send me the gear box and I will install the new gear for you. This same gear box is used in a number of Hoshizaki flakers. Typically symptoms are noisy gear box and jerky auger, or motor spinning but no Auger rotation. Cause is typically scaling/ calcium build up in the evaporator tube. The extra torque stips the gear. Call me if I can help James 580 799 2873