The problem started with sound but no power. I have some experience in this area, and removed the board and checked all the solder and relaced one area now I have pic. but it is barely visible and there is red,green,and blue lines zig zagging across the whole screen. any suggestions???
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Hi, you might need to replace Some damaged resistor controlling the sound function. Please if no basic experience ,contact a repairman.
Replacing Damaged Resistors
Disconnect the stereo at the plug and remove the outer case.
Confirm that the resistor is damaged by testing the tolerance with a multimeter. Melt the current solder with an iron and remove the damaged resistor.
Mount the replacement resistor onto the circuit board. Trim any surplus lead material from around it.
"Tin" the tip of the soldering iron by melting a tiny amount of solder directly onto it. Remove any surplus solder and place the tip straight onto the circuit board.
Melt a tiny amount of solder straight onto the joint, using the solder spool. Ensure that the solder does not touch the tip of the iron.
Melt the solder straight onto the area between the resistor lead and the printed circuit board. Leave it to set and ensure that the joint is strong. Reassemble the stereo and test it.
Also Spray the volume control knob with electrical contact cleaner. Twist the knob from low to high to make certain that all the workings are adequately lubricated. This should eliminate any interference that you've experienced when adjusting the volume.
Check the condition of the speaker wires if the stereo is emitting no sound. Ensure that no bare wires are coming in contact with each other. This will result in a dead short. Replace any damaged wires with new ones.
Check the connections of all speaker wires if no damage is detected. Ensure that the wires are securely connected at the back of the stereo and at the speakers' connections. Confirm that the positive and negative connections on the stereo are connected to the corresponding speaker connections.
RCA, CRT Projection TV, ITC222 chassis Faults - models D52W.., D40W.., D56W.., D61W.. ·Symptom: No Convergence, Picture is bowed and distorted, colors don’t align.
The Fuse for the convergence power supply has blown You'll also notice that the convergence settings have disappeared from the on screen menu. The fuse likely blew because of a fault on the convergence board. If you've never done soldering or dismantled a TV before this is probably not the best place to start. The back cover needs to be removed and the fuse (see picture) identified, the deflection/power supply board needs to be unplugged (label or mark all connectors beforehand) and flipped over and the fuse checked/replaced. You need a soldering iron and solder ****** or solder wick and a multi-meter to check the fuse. If you want to tackle it yourself see attached image for reference or get a quote from a repair shop (approx $200-$300 Total) the convergence board may also need repair.
Symptom: Dead Set- TV Tries to Start or intermittent dead.
The set could be in shut down mode due to a fault detected in the power supply, vertical or horizontal deflection circuits. The common problems with this chassis that will cause a dead set or intermittent dead set symptom are, bad power supply capacitors, bad flyback, bad HV cap in horizontal output circuit and cold solders (on opposite side of board) especially under the flyback area. To gain access to replace any of these parts the back cover needs to be removed and the deflection/power supply board needs to be unplugged (label or mark all connectors beforehand) and flipped over. These are only the most common problems and it could be any number of other faults. If you have electronic (TV) repair experience check the items mentioned (see picture), otherwise it's best to seek a qualified RCA tech for an estimate/service call. ·Symptom: Erratic operation of set – turns off by self, the volume or channel changes by self or on screen menu appears intermittently. Switches on the front panel assembly (FPA) problem. What happens with this model is the FPA switches (one or more) start to conduct just as if someone was pressing the buttons. This in effect locks up the system control or causes it to initiate erratic commands. The way to determine if the FPA is bad is to remove it by unplugging from set. This requires front panel disassembly. Note: The remote will still work with the FPA removed so the set can be tested. Hope this helped, johnnydiode, Fixya.
hi; its sounds like a loose solder or high voltage leak inside your LTV if you know how to open the back cover or technical experience to troubleshoot you can check the power supply board and inverter board if it has a loose solder you can visualize it in the back of the board. also check the wires connected to inverter boards if it has a leak. or shorts.
It sounds like an cold solder joint if the radio has set unused for a period it could be a electrolytic capacitor. After this condition reappears preferably on the bench remove the solder side cover an gently press on the pcb board with a no conductive objected a pencil with the eraser contacting the board a low light area might reveal a spark if your luck.
Remove power from radio and turn volume know on then off.
If you are handy with a soldering iron i would use silver rosin core solder and a 35 watt max soldering iron and solder ******. Now with care tighted the pcb board screws and retouch the solder in the crystal area look around the board for corrision or dull colored solder this can but does no always indicate a cold solder joint. Just a tip dont just remelt solder add a little the rosin flux allows the solder to flow. As temped as you may be do not resolder the long ic chips they are very easily damaged by heat. Good Luck an i hope this was of help.
if they " REPAIRED " the ysus board versus relacing it- then yes. It;'s some times called a domino effect. the "CIRCUIT BOARD " is "wave soldered " that means most " SURFACE MOUNT COMPONENTS " were " PLACED " by machine then soldered to board with a conveyer belt through molten solder. Over time these connections may weaken and " intermittently " open up. The process of being removed and shipped may have exascerbated any original issue. You can check for these defects with a magnifying glass or jewelers loupe. Any " LEAD "soldered through the board will be soldered on both sides-and will need to be checke for circular ring shaped cracks near the surface, cold solder joints at the surface mount level," PICK AND PLACE MANUFACTURING " may be checked for hairline cracks in silver " CIRCUIT TRACE " nearest the edge of the soldered " SURFACE MOUNTED COMPONENT " good luck. Prodzilla
Inspect the power and deflection board for hot spots,areas on the pcb that have been discolored (dark brown)due to heat caused by cold solder joints which in turn will cause the circuit to draw more amperage resulting in even more heat.Heat is the main culprit of component failure in all electronics.If you find any hot spots,inspect the area right underneath it on the solder side of the board and look for loose solder connections or solder that appears to be desintegrating or breaking down(eroding),if you do you will need to resolder the connections,you will need a soldering iron and a roll of solder to do the job.If that is not the case then replace the power supply module\board.Good Luck
Your problem is caused by dry joints and cold solder on the board. If you have a soldering iron and soldering lead open the back panel of your tv. Look for dry joints around the board especially on the power supply section.Cold solder is hard to spot, it is necessary that your working area have sufficient source of light or you may use a table lamp.
Hope it may help you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.
Hi chlundy, my name is John. Welcome to FixYa. You have a power failure in one of the circuits, probably the power supply board. If you have a little soldering experience, you can fix this yourself. Unplug the set and remove the back cover. Where the plug goes into the TV on the board, look for swollen or puffed up capacitors in this area, a capacitor bulged out at the top is bad. Look for cold solder joints on the circuit board, just resolder the joints, and replace the bad capacitors with the same Ohms value and watts rating. You will need a desoldering iron and solder for this job. Get parts here. www.mateletronics.com. Thanks for choosing FixYa. Good luck......John
The flyback transformer and cold solders (especially in the flyback area) are the main source of problems with this chassis. As you pointed out the power supply caps should also be checked. I would start by visually checking for bad solders, for this it's best to remove the board from the plastic housing so you have no obstical in your view.
I've never worked on this brand, but almost all laptops have the power jack soldered right to the system board. Flexing the power connector can break the solder connections and cause the problems you describe. If there hasn't been any damage to the system board, these connections can be resoldered. Getting to them can be a challenge as it means removing the system board to get at the solder side. But if you have soldering experience, patience, a small screwdriver, and some attention to detail, you can fix this.
The only trouble that may pop up is that sometimes electrical arcing occurs where the connections break, and may burn the circuit board. Sometimes the area can be cleaned and successfully repaired, sometimes it's too far gone. But it never hurts to try the repair. Good luck!