My Alpine Air XL-15S stopped working all of a sudden
I cleaned my Air Filter regularly of dust including the backside charcoal lint filter... and found that the fuse was blown off... I replaced the fucse with a One Amp Fuse as recommended but everytime I replaced the fuse it blew off...
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Re: My Alpine Air XL-15S stopped working all of a sudden
Everytime you replace the fuse it blows of that means with the fuse some other componenrt also is got shorted in the unit and that has to be checked with a multimeter and replaced with a soldering iron.so the unit will not work till that capacitor or resistor or that particular faulty ic is not replaced from the main board so the fuse gets blows out every time you cponnect it to the power.
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it should have a prefilter already on it. they have a screen looking filter that goes on the front of the cell. If you don't have one you need to get one. You should also have a charcoal filter on the back side of the cell, if not then you'll need to get one of those also, the charcoal is for odors and not for filtering dust. Putting any other type of filter in front of the cell will just be turning this into a filter type cleaner and will be defeating the purpose of the reusable Trueman cell. You may as well just buy a different cleaner if you don't mind buying new filters instead of cleaning the cell. I would recommend cleaning the cell every 2 weeks to keep it working properly. This will also keep it from snapping, if yours is snapping it's already too dirty and needs to be cleaned, if it's snapping right after it's cleaned then you have a plate that is arcing in the Trueman Cell, I have posted a fix for the ProSheild Models to stop the cell plates from arcing.
Is the fuse in properly? Try popping it out and put it back in, also check it when it is out..just to be redundant since you did it already. push on the bottom of the filter the switch pushes in . I at pushed down my first time.
The Classic XL-15 should have 2 individual indicator lights. The 'red' light is the ionizer indicator, and the 'green' light is the ozone level indicator. Both lights should be illuminated, if the unit is operating properly. The red light should be pulsing, and the green light should be dimly lit, and brightened as the output knob is turned up - indicating a higher ozone production. If the green light is not lit, you likely won't smell the ozone. The first thing you should try, is cleaning the filter and glass ozone plate. Unplug the unit and remove the rear air filter. Clean the filter with clean water and allow to COMPLETELY air dry. Removed the glass plate by depressing the lever behind the glass plate, and gently pulling it out. Clean the glass with a half water, half ammonia (or distilled white vinegar, if ammonia not available) and an old toothbrush to clean between the mesh. Dry plate with a hair dryer and re-place plate into unit. Replace dried air filter, making sure the little tab on the bottom is secured into the interlock. Power the unit on and you should see the indicator lights and smell the fresh ozone!
If it's an XL-15 or Classic, there are four screws through the bottom that hold the main chassis in-place. But first:
1) Unplug the unit, and remove the lint filter in back.
2) You'll need to remove the power switch (carefully pry out with a screwdriver or putty knife), disconnect the spade terminals (note which wires attach to which terminals), and remove the knobs for Fan and Ozone controls.
3) Remove the four screws. As the chassis slides out the back, you'll need to disconnect the spade terminals to the fan motor as well.
Clean thoroughly, make sure everything is re-assembled with good connections in reverse-order. Be particularly careful to leave any sensors clean and connected.
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Clean the filter and dust out the inside from time to time. If the plates are slightly chipped, it mon't matter. Mine has been in constant use for about 3 years. That's all I do and it works just fine.
Several possiblities here. Not static sound means the plasma discharge plates aren't energized.
1) Missing, cracked or defective discharge plate (you say you cleaned the filter - did you mean the lint screen in back, or the glass or white ceramic plate inside)? No plate, no ozone (O3) production.
2) Bad connection in the high voltage leads*.
3) Bad electrical components*.
*I'm not an electrician, and recommend that only qualified personnel troubleshoot high voltage electronic, both for safety, and for preventing further damage to circuitry. Visible problems, such as corroded or broken terminals that can be swapped when it's de-energized (unplugged) is one thing; having to dig deeper into the electronics is something that I expect to rapidly end up costing more than it's worth.