Question about Bosch Nexxt WTMC 3300 Electric Dryer
Had something caught between the drum and the cabinet. I removed the drum and took out the button that was making the racket. I installed the drum, made sure the belt was in the proper position with the motor and tension are.
The unit lights up and when I push the start button I here a click (like a relay opening or closing) and the dryer does not start. I am guessing I need to re-set a safety switch or misse something on reinstalling the drum ... but I don't know what to look for.
Any help appreciated
To access the rear bearing, proceed as follows.
1) Unplug the machine. If you don't you will get a very nasty surprise when you touch the heater coil at the back of the machine. I learned this from experience this time when I got distracted and forgot to unplug the dryer. Of course, I suppose one exciting thing about do-it-yourself work is the possibility doing serious harm to oneself in the process.
2) Remove the angled white cover plate at the bottom of the dryer unit. (Take out the two screws, tilt top down, slide up and out). Unhook the vent pipe, and move the unit to someplace where you can access the front, back and left side simultaneously.
3) Remove the gray plate on top of the dryer cabinet. (Remove the screws along all four edges).
4) Remove the knobs from the control panel. To remove the washer knob, push in and turn counterclockwise. There is a thin metal snap ring between the knob and the knob backing. Don't lose that. Pull the other knobs straight out.
5) Remove the two black screws from underneath the control panel bottom corners. Remove the other screws holding the control panel tabs, also along the bottom. The panel will still be attached. Slip the regular head screwdriver between the top right edge of the control panel housing and the metal cabinet door. Carefully lever the panel down. Do the same on the left side. This is necessary to remove the tabs that hold it in place. Do not lever the control panel toward your body, or you will break the tabs like I did.
6) As the panel falls forward, you will notice an opaque plug on the left that connects the control panel to the dryer. Disconnect the plug and let the control panel hang forward.
7) By this time the front of the dryer drum may have surprised you by dropping down and pushing the door and housing forward. Take the two screws out of the lower left and right corners of the door frame (there may be others). Tilt the door assembly out of the dryer drum, allowing the drum to shift, then lift up and out. This part is cumbersome as the plastic funnel hooked to the lower left of the door will get hung under the dryer drum. Persevere.
7a) Inspect the glides attached to the top edge of the felt inside the dryer door. Two of my three glides were worn off and/or broken. If your glides are worn off or broken, replace the felt strip with a new one.
8) Remove the left side white cabinet panel. There are screws along the back, along the angled lower front edge, and probably up under the back corner. Carefully lift down the panel.
9) Take the drum belt off. Do this by standing at the side of the cabinet, and pushing the topmost (larger) pully away from you. That will relieve tension on the belt, and allow you to slip it off the smaller pulley. Slide the belt off the dryer drum and set it aside.
10) Go back around the front, reach into the dryer drum, and remove the three screws in the back center of the dryer drum. This will release the drum from the cabinet, so be careful that it does not fall on something important.
11) Remove the three outside screws from inside the dryer drum. This will release the thin metal plate that protects the back of the dryer. Register surprise at the amount of lint caught in there.
12) Double check to make sure that the dryer is unplugged. If the dryer is not unplugged, and you touch that bare coiled wire at the back of the cabinet, you are screwed.
13) Slide the face plate in the back center of the dryer wall up and out. Look at the tip of the metal ball. Is it worn? Mine had a good sized depression in it. The replacement unit did not have a depression. I took that as a sign to replace the ball assembly.
14) Using your pliers, loosen the bolts holding the metal bracket, plastic cup, and other stuff in place. This assembly consists of a clip at the back of the machine (accessible from the outside), a small metal bearing, the plastic cup, metal bracket, and two screws. Take careful note of how it all goes together. Hold the metal clip at the back of the machine while you take the screws out the rest of the way by hand.
15) A word about the replacement assembly. There is room for argument here about whether to replace the whole assembly, or simply add hi-temp grease. I replaced the whole assembly for these reasons. Mine looked worn, it had served for seven or eight years, and I really didn't want to go through this process again anytime soon. I ordered my replacement assembly from RepairClinic.com. A good place for parts at reasonable prices. I will go into part costs later. This assembly was made in China, as much is these days. Since the two long screws and the metal bracket did not look as strong as my original equipment, and these original parts were still in good shape, I those two items original and replaced the rest.
16) This part is tricky. Put the metal bracket on the plastic cup, insert the screws, slide the screws through the appropriate holes, and into the clip that your are holding at the back of the machine again. Turn the screws just enough to hold the clip on, but not tight. Drop the metal ball between the inside of the dryer cabinet and back of the plastic cup, doing whatever is necessary, however many times is necessary, to get the ball trapped behind the hole at the center of the plastic cup. Pin the ball in place and tighten the screws. Breathe a sign of relief.
17) Apply high temp grease to the plastic cup and the metal ball on the face plate. Use common sense about the amount. You want a decent amount, but not so much that it is falling out onto the heater coil.
18) Vaccuum everything you can reach in the cabinet. I was surprised by the amount of lint in the cabinet, especially around the heater coil.
19) Vaccuum the back of the dryer drum, and re-attach the metal circle to the back of the dryer drum by using the three outermost screws attached from inside the dryer drum.
20) This is the trickiest part of the whole operation. Unless you are a circus performer, it really helps to have a second person here. Lift up the dryer drum, and line the three inside screw holes up with the three holes in the bearing face plate. Attach the screws. Much easier said than done if you are doing this yourself.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Try these following
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
Hi and welcome to FixYa,
Initially, let's simplify things and try process of elimination:
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
Make sure the belt is on correctly because this could cause this problem!
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
I think you may have fried the motor
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
just click the link
The temperature of the air inside the drum is regulated using different thermostats. Thermostats open and close an internal switch when subjected to the temperature of their environment.
There are two different thermostats in your dryer, the operating thermostat(s) and the high limit ( safety ) thermostat(s). The only difference in these thermostats is their opening and closing temperatures.
Some common area's to find the thermostats. The operating thermostats are often found on the fan housing on Maytag, Whirlpool and Kenmore dryers. Operating thermostats for an older GE dryer and Bosch are just under the lint filter area, the newer GE dryers have them on the fan blower at the front.
Safety thermostats are usually always found on the heating element housing or cage assembly.
Some dryer thermostats are an single pole, double throw style and can usually be identified by a third wire terminal ( often smaller ) mounted towards the top of the thermostat housing (see picture above). On this style when one set of contacts opens, another set closes. This second contact ( terminal 3 ) is used to provide power to the allow the timer to advance when in a permanent press or automatic mode
for electrical test instructions click this link
If your dryer has an interior light, it probably uses a standard 40-watt appliance bulb, but check your owner's manual to be sure.
If the bulb is good but the light won't come on, check the door switch, which serves two functions:
it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
If your dryer doesn't work
at all, it could be because of problems with:
Power from the house
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? If you plug something else into the outlet, does it work? If not, check for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker.
Door switch If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.
If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)
Wiring Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
It blows fuses or trips the circuit breaker Electric dryers use 220 volts or two power lines of 110 volts each. Some components in the dryer need only 110 volts; the heating element requires 220 volts. So it's possible for one part of the dryer to be fine and another part to have a short circuit. Short circuits can be caused by the heating element, the main power cord, or any other part of the internal wiring. To decide where the problem lies, unplug the dryer, then:
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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