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Need a damper motor cramer company.

I would like to buy a replacement damper for my boiler and no one at the supply house can help. part number is p/n60014 2/1.67rpm 24v60/50hz ccw 5w cfl 75c AMB 98200360

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I am looking for a cramer hvac motor mod499c 24 volt 1/3 rpm

Posted on Oct 08, 2014


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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We have a W. McLain CG, small house, just 1 zone so no zone valve. How do I get the pressure back up, it is too low and heat is not reaching the back room

Boilers are set at 180 degrees which gives between 550 and 600 degrees per foot of baseboard depending on the brand. You can change the aquastat setting to 200 degrees which will give more heat, but that may not be your problem. Your system may not be balanced properly. If there is too much baseboard(BB) near the thermostat, it may shut down the boiler before it is warm in the back room. You can close the dampers near where the stat is, and fully open the dampers in the cold room. There is also the possibility that you need to purge some air from the system.
The best solution would be to split off with another zone if none of this works. I'm assuming you have a CG-3, but what size is your house? Is there an indirect fired water heater that uses the boiler to heat domestic water? If you have a cg-3 and your house is over 1000 sq feet, then your boiler is undersized. Good luck!

Mar 20, 2017 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Recently we.had to have the motor replaced on our 3 year old Navien Combi boiler/tankless water heater because it made a squealing noise periodically. The technician who worked on it told us to let him...

This could actually be a manufacturer issue with the brand of pump. Based on your description it is unclear if this is a circulator pump, fuel pump, zone valve motor or other motor on your appliance. As a 30 plus year technician of heating appliance I have seen many parts factory defective, especially when purchased at the same supply house. Inventory is typically shipped to supply houses with manufactured parts from the same factory lot numbers, and when this happens, the technician keeps replacing a part with parts from the same bad lot!

Also, not knowing the true details of this situation, the installation set up, piping sizes, component brands, what means of air venting system was used in the hydronic side of this system, if any? With that said giving you a more specific answer is really impossible, based on the little knowledge I have to go on to help you out.

My recommendation would be to contact another company and have them come out to look at the problem, if you find the previous company charged you for parts that were not needed or the system was installed incorrectly, contact your local plumbing inspector for what to do in your area.

Dec 11, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Armstrong ultra 93

The blower motor may have to be replaced.

Jul 15, 2014 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Automatic Damper

If the damper is buzzing i may be that the moex plug is not properly engaged at the plug and there is sone current loss through the low voltage wiring. If it is a field controls damper it is not uncommon for it to buzz when the plug is connected but ajar. Some times the buzzing is coming from a loose sheet metal screw that is vibrating when the damper is opening or if there are not at least three screws in every section of the smoke pipe if it is a single wall pipe, if you have B vent pipe check to be sure that the sections are connected securely. (they should be @ about 60 degrees apart between screws) and that could cause some buzzing when the damper is opening or closing.
As far as leaving it manually open you will loose heat up the chimney but the boiler will still operate with the damper manually open just not as fuel efficiently. Also check the jacket screws and draft hood screws sometimes they can drive you nuts over a loose screw.
It also could be that the motor is on the way out and you would have to replace it.
Here is a link to the PDF file for that model page 48 will give you some information about the damper.
The boiler will not fire if the damper doesn't open (if it does fire with the damper closed shut it down and call a professional) if you want to check for loose screws it may help you out some. But you may leave it manually open all the time in the short term if it does fail but don't leave it open too long or your gas bill will start to pick your pocket.
Good luck I hope it was some help and look over the link to the equipment it may be helpfull

Mar 01, 2014 | Weil-McLain CGa-25-SPDN, NG, Gas Fired...

1 Answer

Saunier duval parts

If you are talking about the damper flap on the flue pipe. You have to go to a heating supply and buy a new flue that is already attached to a section of new pipe and fit it together. I'm not sure if your flue is free flap type of arm driven. British gas is trying to make a buck off you . Call a regular boiler repair man if you don't feel comfortable doing it your self.. Mine came apart at the hinge. The pin came out..I replaced it with a wire brad (nail) and it works just fine.

Dec 12, 2017 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have a kenmore side by side. FF side too cold. Replaced t-stat and defrost timer. All settings and air flow set right. FF still too cold. T-stat set all the way down . Should be at 3 or 4

You need to provide a model number in order to look over the parts list and see what type of auto damper your model has. There are ways to test an auto damper to see if it opens and close properly. An auto damper can be electrical or mechanical. Kenmore model numbers look like this example=> 321.2345789 and can be found artound the fresh food compartment door frame.

1 Turn power off to refrigerator.
2 Open the fresh food sections door and remove all items on top shelf.
3 Adjust the fresh food control to its coldest position.
4 Remove the light shield by pulling down on the back corners of the cover and then slide the cover forward.
5 Remove the edge sealing device, radiant shield supporting screws at the back bottom center of the control housing mounting screw at back, bottom center of the control housing. Slide the control housing to the right and lower the housing.
6 Disconnect the temperature control housing from electric quick disconnect.
7 Remove the temperature control housing from the refrigerator and then place on a
flat work surface.
8 Remove the auto damper control rod retainer, control rod and the slide control
gear from the auto damper control.
9 Now turn the control housing over.
10 Remove the two auto damper mounting screws, then remove the auto damper from the control housing.
11 Mark the auto damper rod about 1/4 in. from and away from the housing.
12 Uncoil the auto damper capillary tube at about 4 in.'s
13 Submerge into a glass of ice (not water). then watch for door to move to the closed
14 Remove from ice and warm capillary tube with your hand. Then watch door for an opposite reaction.
15 If no movement is detected, replace the control. 61005971 Damper Control Assembly
The above is only a demostration of how to test a refrigerator with an auto that uses a capillary tube to open and close the damper. Your refrigerator will need to be identified by the correct model number to let you know what type of auto damper your model has, Post your model number and I will tell you what you will need to test yours, Thanks Sea Breeze

Apr 12, 2013 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Nu Tone Bath Exhaust Fan - QT-110N-B - motor vibrating

You can buy just the motor assembly. You would remove the grill. Usually there is a plug to disconnect the motor. Remove screw(s) and the motor and fan assembly will come out leaving the rough in housing in the ceiling. I did not locate your model number as you listed it however the QT line has numerous model numbers. Here is a link to the nutone page. You should be able to purchase a "trim kit" which would include the fan,motor,and grill. You can either buy it on-line, or you might try an electrical supply company.

Jul 05, 2010 | Home

2 Answers

I need a motor for flotec shallow well pump unit #FP7100-08.The motor #S48D02AO3.WHERE CAN I FIND ONE AND HOW MUCH.Thank you Greg

Save yourself time and effort, replace the entire unit. I speak as a guy who has lived with a well for more than 35 years.

If you put a new motor on a old pump what do you have? A new $300.00 motor on a $worthless old pump. Spend the $350.00 and replace it.

Oct 27, 2009 | Flotec Corrosion Resistant Shallow Well...

1 Answer

No green light on vent damper

The damper is no longer funtioning and needs to be replaced

Dec 17, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a 6 year old Halstead Ace High boiler which has many recurring problems due to a bad fitting. It was never flushed out causing the heat exchange needing to replaced TWICE through clogging and then...

Firstly your system needs a power flush to get rid of the grot, then it needs a good inhibitor to slow up the reappearance of the sludge.

Changing the boiler won't help. Any boiler will get clogged up but the halstead DHW heat exchanger is particualrly prone to getting gummed up. You can clean this out and refit without having to buy a new one. - but without a power flush it will happen again.

Jul 31, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

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