Question about Tiger JNP-1000 5.5-Cup Rice Cooker

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Cover latch after many years of almost daily use, the cover will not latch down. i can't tell if the problem is in the metal cover latch or the plastic holder in the body. i've tried twisting the metal piece around but nothing works. where can i get spare parts? my only solution has been to use a bungee cord to hold the lid closed. there is a groove on the bottom of the body that fits the bungee perfectly.

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  • pakeplmbr Jan 10, 2008

    Exactly, only my wife used tape to hold cover down while cooking and the rice came out perfectly, I tried to bend the latch both ways but it did not make a difference......please advise if you have a solution.........

  • Anonymous May 25, 2009

    i can't live my rice cooker to warm because the rice becomes hard

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You may need to tighten the screw for the metal post where it's held to the top lid. This should help to extend the metal post to reach over the plastic latch, enough to latch down the lid.

Posted on Jan 30, 2016

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1 Answer

Replace cord in Rowenta Iron


0) Unplug the iron.

1) Remove the (2 or more) screws holding the plastic bottom plate (that the iron stands up on).
The screws are likely to be #20 Torx "Security" screws -- for which you will need a special bit for your nut/screwdriver. A kit of various sizes of Torx security bits will cost you about $10.

2) Remove the plastic cord-holder assembly from the iron.
2a) If the cord-holder is held in place with screws (you are in luck!), simply unscrew them. If you see no screws, then it is being held in place by several (probably 4) plastic tabs that you must simultaneously release. This makes the job much more fiddly. Use a small/medium blade screwdriver to carefully bend and hold each of the plastic tabs out of the way of the latches. You'll need one screwdriver per tab/latch! Take care not to break the tabs...
2b) Carefully wiggle/pull/work the cord-holder assembly out of the iron taking care not to bend the pins of the integral plug (inside the iron) that are seated in the cord-holder socket. Basically, with the iron resting on its metal surface, pull/pry/wiggle the cord-holder straight upward until the cord-holder (socket) pulls free of the (3 or more) stiff wires that function as a "plug".

3) Note that there are 2 crimp-on connectors attaching the 2 wires of the cord to the rest of the wires in the iron. Take a photo of the wires and jot down notes of which wires are connected together. NOTE: One of the cord wires is "neutral" and is attached to the wider spade at the plug end of the cord. Typically the "neutral" wire is marked with a white stripe or ridge down length of the cord. Don't mix up the "neutral" wire and the "hot" wire when you re-connect them in a later step!

4) Cut off the crimp-on connectors and separate all the wires.

5) Remove the cord from the system of zig-zagging "strain-relief" notches that hold the cord securely in place. You may have to remove a small plastic clip first.

6) Cut off 6 inches of the cord. (Or supply a new cord, if the cord has been shortened too much in previous repairs.) This eliminates the broken section wire within the cord. You may use an ohm meter to verify that both wires have a low resistance again (less than 1 ohm).

7) Route the cord back into the "strain-relief" notches in the cord-holder. Don't forget the plastic clip (if there was one)...

8) Strip all wires, exposing about 3/8" of copper on each.

9) Referring to your notes and photo, re-connect all wires using proper-sized plastic wire-nuts for secure connections.

10) Re-attach the cord-holder to the iron body. Make sure you line up the stiff wire pins with the cord-holder socket. Push the cord-holder into place and secure it (via screws or snap-in-place plastic tabs).

11) Replace the plastic cover, taking care to position the wire-nuts and wires to allow it to drop into place without forcing it. Secure the cover with screws.

12) Plug in the iron and test it out!

Mar 23, 2014 | Rowenta Irons

1 Answer

Hatchback door handle broken on 2002 Toyota Sequoia. How do I open door?


You need to get inside the vehicle and remove the trim around the top of the window, It is 3 pieces. You also need to remove the plastic door panel. To do that you need to remove the internal handle and any other items attached to the door/panel. the internal handle snapped opened by a screw driver then a socket needs to be used to take the bolt out of the handle. When this is done I took a hooked tool like a radiator hose tool and slipped it at around the edges to pull the plastic plugs out until the cover pulls free from the bottom. Make sure you save all of them if any fall off of the cover. Then you slide it up out of the window crack to remove it. You may find a video of all of this if you search for it with your year of vehicle or ones around the same year. You can then remove the metal center cover its about 8 bolts and a few plastic snaps. Once you open the back you will find the latch broke or a cable came loose. I have had both happen. If the latch is broken buy the metal one for the Tundra it will last the life of the vehicle (the one for the Sequoia is plastic on most years?). You can also buy the cable and the bottom latch on line I would replace all 3 and you should be good for 5 to 10 years again. I did the door handle then the latch and cable later. Let me know if you get stuck anywhere.

Mar 11, 2014 | 2001 Toyota Sequoia

1 Answer

On a 2004 Honda Shadow 750. Can you tell me the steps to removing the seat so I can charge the battery please.


Yes, Towards the back of the front seat and on the side are two big bolts.
I beleive they are allen head bolts. Remove the two bolts and the seat slides out.
If you have a rear seat, pull up on the front of the rear seat so the front will slide back.

Now you see electrical wires and a cdi sitting in a plastic holder. That plastic holder is the battery cover.
Don't unplugg anything, just pull the cdi out of the plastic holder so you can remove the cover.
There will be one screw holding that cover down. remove the screw and lift out the cover.

There is your battery for you to change out, charge, or check.

Dec 12, 2010 | Honda VT 750 C2 Shadow Motorcycles

1 Answer

Drivers window will notgo down


these is a good site that will tell you how to replace the motor attached to the window regulator. A refurb regulator at Oreilleys is about $79 with a lifetime guarntee (you may actually need to replace it again as it was a poor design motor to begin with!)
There are 3 screws holding the door panel on, 2 near the door handle itselff and one at the very bottom. the rest are all snaps that need to be popped loose. Then you have to remove the door latch rod, and several electrical connectors to pull the door panel off.
NOTE: if removing the regulator becreaful of the metal plate attached to both teh black regulator and white plastic spool. try to only remove the metal clips attached to the black regulater. leave the clips to the white plastic spool holder alone.

the rest of the instructions are here.. http://chryslerforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3326&highlight=driver+window&page=2

Sep 25, 2009 | 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

3 Answers

Replace the bulb in the map/dome/courtesy light


The tear-drop shaped white translucent plastic covers are removable.
Insert a flat tip screwdriver between the inside straight edge of the cover and the console near the oval indentation at the round end of the cover.
CAUTION
Be careful of plastic tab at the round end of the plastic cover.
Gently pry the plastic away and down from the console.
I found that the bulb 578 was the wrong bulb.

Jul 17, 2009 | 2007 Chrysler Town & Country LX New Cars

2 Answers

How do I replace the battery and where is it located?


Procedure:

Remove battery cover located under the hood on the passenger side in the back. Simply pry the plastic catch in the front, open it like a lid and jiggle it loose and set it aside.
Use the small flat screwdriver to pop up the center peg in the five peripheral fasteners holding down the plastic compartment cover that you just removed the battery cover from. Each of these has a small black plastic circular flat topped center peg inside a larger plastic circular disk which has 4 slots under which you can slide the screwdriver to pop up the center peg. When the peg pops up simply slide the screwdriver under the larger disk to remove the assembly and loosen that site of fixation. When all five fasteners are out you can remove the entire compartment cover.
The battery terminals are removed with the 10mm wrench
The black box in front of the battery can be lifted out of the way by pressing on the plastic catch in the front of the box to loosen it from the metal flange that it is attached to.
The metal battery holder is removed with the 10 mm wrench. The nut is removed and the long bolt is slid out of the holder and then unhooked from it's bottom anchor. Jiggle the metal bar over the top of the battery to unhook the back hook from its bottom anchor. It may be necessary to lift the plastic over the back of the battery gently and lift out the soft clear plastic washer fluid tube from its guides to get at the back hook.
Gently lift the battery out while holding the cables out of the way.
Tools required:
10mm wrench, small flat screwdriver
Procedure:
Remove battery cover located under the hood on the passenger side in the back. Simply pry the plastic catch in the front, open it like a lid and jiggle it loose and set it aside.
Use the small flat screwdriver to pop up the center peg in the five peripheral fasteners holding down the plastic compartment cover that you just removed the battery cover from. Each of these has a small black plastic circular flat topped center peg inside a larger plastic circular disk which has 4 slots under which you can slide the screwdriver to pop up the center peg. When the peg pops up simply slide the screwdriver under the larger disk to remove the assembly and loosen that site of fixation. When all five fasteners are out you can remove the entire compartment cover.
The battery terminals are removed with the 10mm wrench
The black box in front of the battery can be lifted out of the way by pressing on the plastic catch in the front of the box to loosen it from the metal flange that it is attached to.
The metal battery holder is removed with the 10 mm wrench. The nut is removed and the long bolt is slid out of the holder and then unhooked from it's bottom anchor. Jiggle the metal bar over the top of the battery to unhook the back hook from its bottom anchor. It may be necessary to lift the plastic over the back of the battery gently and lift out the soft clear plastic washer fluid tube from its guides to get at the back hook.
Gently lift the battery out while holding the cables out of the way.
Tools required:
10mm wrench, small flat screwdriver
Procedure:
Remove battery cover located under the hood on the passenger side in the back. Simply pry the plastic catch in the front, open it like a lid and jiggle it loose and set it aside.
Use the small flat screwdriver to pop up the center peg in the five peripheral fasteners holding down the plastic compartment cover that you just removed the battery cover from. Each of these has a small black plastic circular flat topped center peg inside a larger plastic circular disk which has 4 slots under which you can slide the screwdriver to pop up the center peg. When the peg pops up simply slide the screwdriver under the larger disk to remove the assembly and loosen that site of fixation. When all five fasteners are out you can remove the entire compartment cover.
The battery terminals are removed with the 10mm wrench
The black box in front of the battery can be lifted out of the way by pressing on the plastic catch in the front of the box to loosen it from the metal flange that it is attached to.
The metal battery holder is removed with the 10 mm wrench. The nut is removed and the long bolt is slid out of the holder and then unhooked from it's bottom anchor. Jiggle the metal bar over the top of the battery to unhook the back hook from its bottom anchor. It may be necessary to lift the plastic over the back of the battery gently and lift out the soft clear plastic washer fluid tube from its guides to get at the back hook.
Gently lift the battery out while holding the cables out of the way.
Tools required:
10mm wrench, small flat screwdriver
Procedure:
Remove battery cover located under the hood on the passenger side in the back. Simply pry the plastic catch in the front, open it like a lid and jiggle it loose and set it aside.
Use the small flat screwdriver to pop up the center peg in the five peripheral fasteners holding down the plastic compartment cover that you just removed the battery cover from. Each of these has a small black plastic circular flat topped center peg inside a larger plastic circular disk which has 4 slots under which you can slide the screwdriver to pop up the center peg. When the peg pops up simply slide the screwdriver under the larger disk to remove the assembly and loosen that site of fixation. When all five fasteners are out you can remove the entire compartment cover.
The battery terminals are removed with the 10mm wrench
The black box in front of the battery can be lifted out of the way by pressing on the plastic catch in the front of the box to loosen it from the metal flange that it is attached to.
The metal battery holder is removed with the 10 mm wrench. The nut is removed and the long bolt is slid out of the holder and then unhooked from it's bottom anchor. Jiggle the metal bar over the top of the battery to unhook the back hook from its bottom anchor. It may be necessary to lift the plastic over the back of the battery gently and lift out the soft clear plastic washer fluid tube from its guides to get at the back hook.
Gently lift the battery out while holding the cables out of the way.

Apr 17, 2009 | 2004 Nissan 350Z

1 Answer

2003 Ford Explorer back door latch will not open


Mine just did the exact same thing. The latch may be moving freely because it is not hooked to the latching mechanism anymore. In my case, the handle had broken where the handle hooks to the rod that operates the mechanism. Go to the Ford dealer and buy a new handle. Here in S.C. it was $24. You can't get this at the parts houses. Start by removing the plastic "Ford" cover that is over the liscense plate lights. You then have to remove the aluminum rivets that hold the handle to the tailgate from the outside and remove the broken latch. Remove the pull handle loop on the interior side of the tailgate (2 screws), unsnap the inside plastic tailgate interior panel, and pull down the black plastic sheeting that is underneath the panel to make access to the mechanism inside of the tailgate. There is also a hard plastic cover that you will see that needs to be pulled loose to open another access hole. Install the new tailgate latch handle by sliding back into the mounting holes and attach with two 10-32 screws and nuts. The new handle will come with a new yellow rod attachment piece on the handle. You will see inside of the tailgate a small rod hanging down, most likeky it will have the same rod attachment piece as the one on the new handle. Note the position of the yellow piece on the rod, as you will connect the new piece in the same place. Once the rod is hooked up, relubricate the metal mechanism with a light machine oil, replace the black plastic cover, replace the black plastic sheeting, (secure with a small amount of duct tape), replace the tailgate interior panel, replace the pull handle loop, shut tailgate, replace "Ford" cover over lights, and you're done!

Mar 23, 2009 | 2003 Ford Explorer Sport

2 Answers

Power Door Locks - 1996 Honda Accord Wagon - Rear Hatch


I had the same problem. A weather mat got stuck when the hatch closed. After freeing the mat, the hatch would not open. The lock button would go up and down, but the hatch stayed locked.
What happened was the the plastic holder for the metal arm that connected the lock button to the mechanism broke.
There are no screws holding the inside panel, just metal tab clips.
First, I took off the inside close handle--2 bolts. Then I had to work my way from the center tail light, unscrewing it and popping off the left and right trim pieces--metal tab clips. These were covering the back panel. Now the hard part was getting the back panel off. It does pop off and I found it very hard to get something behind the edges.
The plastic holder that held the metal connector in place had broke. I used two plastic pull ties to hold the connector in it's place. Reversed the procedure and it works again.

Mar 04, 2009 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Honda pilot door locks


It is because the door actuator is bad in those doors.

Replacements can be found at the dealership for around $60 or on Ebay for as little as $10. Number 5/24 in the diagram below. Actuator part # Left Side 72155-S5P-A11 & the Right side 72115-S6A-J01.


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Expect to set aside at least 1-2 hours on the first replacement, lesser time on the ones afterwards. Be careful not to push parts in directions that they shouldn't be pushed in. Don't break any plastic parts/metal rods or connections - take your time.

1. Remove the plastic tab under the inner door latch.
2. Open the 2 small black colored screws.
3. Carefully swing the door latch attachment out by moving it down and out. Remove the rod and the electrical connection - there's a slot to press and pull-out.
4. Use a flat screw driver to carefully pry the window opening plastic area (its one piece and includes the cup holder). Remove the electrical connection - there's a slot to press and pull-out. Open the screw beneath the arm rest.
5. Use a flat tool (I used a metal putty 5-in-1 tool) to slide between the door metal and plastic areas - pull the plastic buttons/connections off, you'll hear them pop. Slide the door out.
6. Gently open the white plastic sheet about a quarter of the way from the top right down so you can reach in the actuator area (near the door latch - at the end of door with 3 screws). Remove the window guardrail, if its in the way - use a 3/8 bolt.
7. Use correct amount of force, without stripping them, open the 3 screws at the door latch.(Best to use a Handheld Impact Driver)
8. Take a good look at the connections inside. Disconnect the electrical connections (two of them) on the lock actuator.
9. Gently but forcefully (without breaking any plastic or other parts), push the metal connectors back and carefully remove the door lock actuator assembly from the door.
10. Replace with new actuator and assemble in reverse.

Nov 24, 2008 | 2004 Honda Pilot

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