Water on an hotpoint aquarius 1000wm62 not heating up on all programs,heating element checked and seems ok,is the thermostat/sensor n/open or n/closed when power is off and water cold?any advice would be good,
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Re: washing m/c water not heating up.
Make sure the economy button is not selected if it has one, as this bypasses the heater..
you say you have had element checked and seems o/k, to be certain it is o/k then test with a meter when it is on heat stage in the prog, and make sure you have a 240V reading across the heater terminals, if you have and it does not heat, then the element is faulty.
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Although I do not know your particular machine I strongly suspect that the heater element is malfunctioning/broken. Even if it is a hot and cold fill it still requires the element to heat the water up to the correct temperature for the selected wash. If it is cold fill only it certainly needs the element all of the time- apart from rinses!
Sorry but it depends now on who you have at hand to repair as to your next step.
All Hotpoint washers have heater element regardless of whether they are cold fill only, or hot and cold fill.
if 2 connections at rear, then it is hot and cold fill, if only 1 connection, then it is cold fill only.
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if it fill with water then stops it is the ellement the machine first fills turns the drum then heats up the thermostat cuts in and the it emptys rinses and spins so if it does not get to temp it will stop or continue to wash forever
Hi, I think the problem you have is with the cold water inlet valve? When your machine dries it uses a small amount of water at high pressure through a restricter fitted in the water inlet valve. These break down letting in to much water which cannot evaporate quick enough for it to pump out causing the washing to become wetter than after the wash/spin cycle. The only way of solving this is to replace th tree way water inlet valve. But make sure that the pump is working ok first and that there is nothing in the sump hose trap which is located underneath the washing machine out the bottom of the tub.
its seems you're doing your home work. that cylindrical part is the thermostat itself. it should have a resistance in the range of kilo ohms. around 10 kohm to 25 kohms. you can try to change the range of your testing equipment so that you could be sure that te thermostat is really open circuit.
if there is no resistance, then that is the problem. if there is resitance in the kilo ohms range then it could still be ok and you need todo some further testing.
you can check for voltage presence at the terminlas of the heater. if there is no voltage then it could be the relay on the power board that supply voltage to the heater.
or the board itself.
i hope i was able to help..please rate me..tnx
The heating element for this paticular model is located on the front casing of the drum.. you have to remove the front panel complet with the door and you will see it at the bottom behind a black protective cover.