Question about Philips 28PW6006 28" TV

1 Answer

No Picture / Clicking Noise

Hello. Wondering if somebody can point me in the right direction for this one :) Since turning on my philips 28PW6006 there is now no picture. Basically there is power to the tv and the standby light comes on. On startup all you can hear is two relays on the boards coupling and de-coupling (if thats the correct terminology!) then there is nothing. Sometimes a faint picture will come on with sound for a couple of seconds and then go off. If you try and change channels the 'clicking' sound of the relays can be heard but still no picture. WOndering if ayone has come across this sort of problem and whether it is worth investigating? Would rather fix this than buy a new tv so any help is very appreciated! Many Thanks Rob.

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Philips Master
  • 5,568 Answers

Unfortunately, your problem is another one of thousands; I spend half of my time here pasting in the following explanation:
This problem is with fair certainty the power supply.
The clicking you hear is a relay that repeatedly connects, then disconnects the AC to prevent fire or further damage. 
 
If it just fails to turn on, the main power supply is probably at fault and without some technical background and a couple of test instruments, you will not likely be able to do the repair yourself. 

Modern power supplies are designed to shut down if the current drawn exceeds the design level, which indicates that something the supply services or the supply itself has died.

If you are adventurous, you might pull the plug on the set, allow the set to sit overnight, gain access to the innards, and with good light, inspect any boards inside.
If you see one that has few ICs but many more larger discrete parts, this will be the power supply.
Again, before touching anything inside, especially on that board, allow at least several hours to be safe since the larger capacitors can hold a painful voltage charge for some hours.  
You are looking for components called electrolytic capacitors that are almost always cylindrical and mostly installed upright at 90 degrees to the board with leads passing through to the solder side.
This same type of component in smaller dimensions is still used in a horizontal package with leads bent down and passing though holes to the solder side.
The latter are becoming more rare since they don't lend themselves well to robot assembly.
Many failed caps (not all) will show signs of pregnancy when they fail, bulging unnaturally at the top when compared with others. Now and then, there may be traces of a crystalline deposit around the end where the seal failed from internal pressure.      
These will have values listed on them in uFd & VDC and sometimes, a plus/minus number lying about the precision.
Some also have a date code (rarer) that will look like four digits:
 
2403 = 24th week of 2003
 
Most electronics suppliers have a stock of the various values but if they have a date code at all, try to get only those made before 2002 or after 2006.

 
The larger caps will probably be OK since the failure is likely related to functions other than brute-force filtering. A pretty good 'rule of thumb' is to replace any caps you see bulging of any value but especially those that are 100 uFd or less.
 
If you see signs of overheating such as discoloration of the board material, it may not be repairable but if you can find a part number on the board, you might be able to buy the power supply and install it yourself.
If there are no signs of heat damage to the board, there may be companies offering to repair it as a subassembly instead of repairing the whole set which could be much more expensive.
If you choose to replace it or have it done, the power supply still may not be at fault since most are capable of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an overload.
 
If you choose to replace failed caps yourself, you will need a quality soldering iron with a small, preferably iron-plated tip, rosin core solder and a sponge which when wetted is used to frequently wipe oxidized solder from the tip this should be kept bright and clean and fresh tinning will keep it that way.
 
You should also buy some solder 'wick' with the iron; this is used to place on the solder you wish to remove and then heated with the iron. Properly used, the wick will absorb nearly all of the solder from the lands from which you wish to remove a component.  
 

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Noise coming from underneath when car in gear


Where is the noise coming from ... front/rear/underneath?
It could be caused by many things. If you can give more information as to the source and type of noise/when it occurs - somebody will probably be able to point you in the right direction

Feb 13, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Somebody told me it could need lubricant on Velocity joint


Oh cv joint. Ok is it a clicking noise or vibration?

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My car makes a clicking noise from the right tire when turning either direction


It could probably be your passenger CV Axle that needs to be replaced. They tend to make a loud/soft clicking noise if they go out.

Jan 18, 2013 | 2003 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Phillips 55" rear projection HD ready --power button lights up, but no picture or sound--just a clicking noise. Also, we can no longer adjust the blue convergence. The adjustment screen comes up, but we...


Got our tv in 2004 and we're having the exact same problem. When the blue convergence started going a couple months ago my husband researched the heck out of it and decided it would cost less to just replace the tv with a newer, nicer model rather than repair it. And now, as of last night, we are having the same power issue where the power button goes on, but won't stay on. It just clicks on and off and no sound or picture. Did you ever get yours fixed, or did you end up replacing?

Oct 15, 2010 | Philips 55PP9352 55" Projection Television

1 Answer

I dont have the cd to install my philips 700


Download the software from Philips by clicking the link below:

External Mirror 1

Mar 08, 2009 | Philips SPC700NC Webcam

1 Answer

Picture not centered on my philips 47'' lcd tv


NOTE:(Edited and copied from another thread on Fixya.com, c7carl)

Picture is not centered on monitor leaving a 2 1/2 inch; black border on Philips LCD
By dmorrow54 on Nov 13, 2007
Again, nothing in manual for Philips LCD will correct the fact that the picture in HD-D mode will not center. The picture runs off the monitor on the left (facing the monitor) with a 2 1/2" black border on the right (facing the monitor). Using the format button on the remote of directional arrows will not correct the issue. The wide-screen/ full-screen function with format does nothing. Moving into TV mode, the format function works to display screen in several ways 4:3, 19:2, super-zoom, wide-screen, full-screen. Help, please. posted 3 years ago

Guest
  • Rank: Guide
  • Rating: 0%, 0 Votes
I have a Philips 30 inch LCD and solved the problem by using the circular arrow button on the TV remote. Pointing it at the TV and clicking "right" (3 o'clock on the button), the picture moved right. Same thing on for "left". Worked for me.
Add a comment


    • c7carl
    • 5 minutes ago
    WOW! It works!! The picture on my Magnavox (aka Philips) 37MF321D had shifted to the right. I figured I had a big repair bill coming up soon. But hey! Just used the TV remote as described by "Guest', and re-centered the picture to the left. Wallah! Thanks ""Guest" whomever you are! Reply

    Posting advertisements, profanity, or personal attacks is prohibited. Click here to review our Terms of Use.
    Comment:

Feb 05, 2009 | Philips 47PFL5603D 47 in. LCD HDTV

1 Answer

Sanyo ds-25350 TV won't turn on, just clicks twice


Sanyo ds-25350 ? Not recognising that model number.

Sep 16, 2017 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

TV will not turn on. It makes a nonstop clicking noise.


Sounds to me like the high voltage power supply is attempting to fire off the metal halide lamp without success.

Nov 24, 2008 | Philips 55PP9352 55" Projection Television

2 Answers

Picture is not centered on monitor leaving a 2 1/2" black border on Philips LCD


I have a Philips 30 inch LCD and solved the problem by using the circular arrow button on the TV remote. Pointing it at the TV and clicking "right" (3 o'clock on the button), the picture moved right. Same thing on for "left". Worked for me.

Nov 13, 2007 | Philips 37PF7320A 37 in. HD-Ready LCD...

Not finding what you are looking for?
Philips 28PW6006 28" TV Logo

91 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Philips Televison & Video Experts

The Knight
The Knight

Level 3 Expert

75846 Answers

matt martin
matt martin

Level 3 Expert

1230 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17130 Answers

Are you a Philips Televison and Video Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...