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Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
Bad element, bad switch or other electrical problem. You could double check switch by turning on broiler element to see if that
gets hot. If so then either oven thermostat, or element. Did the circuit breaker pop off and then you reset? So there is a short somewhere, especially if it happens again. The above test with broiler element could verify power to oven. If it pops the
circuit breaker again. You need a service technician. Usually the oven requires a dedicated wire to the oven. Don't use the oven again until the problem is resolved. There's a slim possibility
that the circuit breaker needs to be replaced. How long did you use the oven? If a long time circuit breaker is more likely because
when they begin to fail they get too hot and therefore pop. You will need an electrician to change the circuit breaker if that is the problem.
HI, Sounds like your from the UK If you are referring to a trip switch as being equivalent to an American circuit breaker. (Electrical safety device designed to shut down power to an electrical appliance). Then we are on the same page. Do the following diagnostic procedure: 1 SHUT DOWN THE POWER SUPPLY TO THE OVEN. I.E. THE TRIP SWITCH/CIRCUIT BREAKER. 2 Open the oven door and look very carefully with a flashlight at
the heating element. Look at the the entire element. If
it blew (similar to when a light bulb blows) you will find white
powder around the hole in it or it will be completely broken, or have
bubbles in it. Some indication like that. If so it has failed and
must be replaced. It is probably tripping the switch because it is shorting out somewhere. There is also the possibility that the internal wiring connectors to where the element is mounted into the oven walls is broken off and short circuiting against the oven chassis (walls). That being the case, it may be just a wiring repair in which you install new appropriate electrical contacts and re-connect the element. Hope this helps, Happy New Year, Mark
Common fault codes: Maytag / MAYCOR / Magic Chef / Jennair / Admiral Oven Fault Codes Display Condition Remedy F0 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock F1 Defective Touch Pad or Membrane Replace Touch Pad or Membrane F2 Oven over heat defective Relay Board or (if present) or defective Sensor F3 Oven Sensor Open Replace Sensor F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it or replace Sensor F5 Hardware, safety circuits disagree Replace Clock F6 Missing AC (power) signal Check for proper voltage (plug, breaker, etc.) F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Clean and unstick button or replace Touch Pad or Clock F8 A/D Warning Replace Clock F9 Door Lock Warning Check door lock circuit or Replace Clock
Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.
In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.
Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:
The F1 code indicates that:
a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.
b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.
Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.
1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code. As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode. This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven. The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit). The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms. The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness, harness connections and the sensor itself.
2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad. If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously. If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle), remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes, then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner. The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied, the surface material can break down causing shorts. If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel -don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.
3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.
4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.
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You probably have a bad ( or open ) heating element.. With the power removed.. look at the heating element and make sure it is connected properly and if after you check that it looks ok.. plug it in and try again.. if it fails to get hot..its probably bad.. Not sure what you mean when you say ' IT TRIPPED THE ELECTRIC SWITCH OFF AT THE TIME' but if it tripped the switch or circuit breaker .. your heating element may be shorting out to ground.. and would need to be replaced anyway... Hope that helps.
I found the lower circuit breaker had been tripped. That didn't fix the problem but upon further inspection whoever had worked on the unit years ago had dropped a screwdriver that had lodged between the oven wall and the rear casing and shorted out the lower heating element. I removed the screwdriver and oven works fine now. I don't think that will solve the cmmclow problem but maybee the curcuit breaker is tripped.
there are three possible issues, one is a faulty ground. the computer uses ground to determine zero in binary logic. It could also be a stuck key on the input board, or the main control board. Check your owners manual, some units come with an exceptional warranty on the electronics. This is a big one and it may be worth your time to call a tech in to check it out. electronics are expensive and you can not send them back if you diagnosis is wrong.