Question about Ultra Max Takagi Flash TH-1 Ultra High Efficiency Gas Tankless Water Heater

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Takagi TK-JR vibrating noise

I have a takagi TK-JR that I use to heat a closed loop hydronic system in my garage. I use a grundfos three speed pump and run it on medium speed. It has worked great for two years and all of a sudden this year when I fired it up it vibrates like crazy. I cleaned the filter, added more air bleeds, flushed out the system and refilled with new 50% glycol and the thing still vibrates. I had the gas supply pressure checked, 8" of water and the takagi tech walked the gas guy through the process of dropping the manifold pressure but the next day when I fired it up, it vibrated again. If I stand there and nurse it through the first 15 minutes of operation by dropping the pump speed to low, I can get it to work without noise for as long as it is firing. Heater will not fire up with pump on low speed as there is not enough flow so I have to start it on medium speed and then switch to low speed so it does not vibrate itself to peices. I also had to up the pressure in the system to 30psi from 15psi and that seemed to help a bit. It acts like the water is boiling and that is causing it to vibrate.

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  • dakata_jv Jan 06, 2009

    Hello everybody. I just installed Takagi TK Jr tankless water heater. Indoor. Natural gas. Stainless steel direct vent (24" up then about the same horizontal => about 48" all together). In use for bathroom & kithcen only. Worked fine for couple of weeks then suddenly started making vibrating noise when turn hot water on. The noise dissapears in about 5 seconds. I don't know what it is due to. Water pressure is whatever comes from the city water. Gas pressure is whatever comes from National Grid (1" black pipe reduced to 3/4" for about 7' before the boiler.

  • davidzaw Mar 13, 2009

    TK-JR I have the same problem.  very noisy vibration like sound and it doesn't stop.  The takagi help line folks make it sound like they have never heard of this problem.



  • shanaron Mar 16, 2009

    I have a takagi jr used as a boiler it also makes a loud vibrating noise for a few seconds on startup. I have a condensate drain within 2 feet of the unit and 6' of vent through the roof.

  • invertedflig Apr 01, 2009

    I have a Takagi TK-3 heating my house and have the same problem. It ran fine when first installed but within a month or two the vibrations started. It does it for a few seconds when a pump first kicks on. Interestingly, the problem seemed to fade away (not completely) this winter and the only change I made was to add another large zone for the third floor. But then I recently shut off the whole first floor zone and the vibrations are back and more violent than ever. I wonder if having more pipe and water in the system reduced the water-hammer effect?



    Right now the vibrations are extremely loud and shake the rooms above the boiler. I'm afraid the thing is going to rattle itself apart.



    I did talk to a Takagi rep about this a couple months ago. He seemed to think it was the fan vibrating but there's no way it has that much power. He also said the problem would continue to get worse and suggested I increase my pressure from 12 to 30psi, direct vent the boiler, and use glycol. I did all but the last one and it didn't help.



    My best guess is that the valve that modulates water to (or around) the heating coil might be causing this. If it opens and closes really fast it seems like that could cause water hammer within the boiler.



    I'm going to call Takagi again soon.

  • macgyverglen Apr 03, 2009

    Takagi T-KD20 has severe vibration on startup if flow is more than 2.5 gal per min. It will settle down after a couple of minutes. Any advice?

  • d3net Apr 04, 2009

    I have a similar problem with my Takagi T-K1S tankless water heater. Its worked fine for 3 years and then one day it started making a very loud vibrating noise almost every time it fires up. The noise goes away after about 10-15 seconds. You can hear the noise through the whole house. Sounds like the pipes are shaking violently but when examined, there is no movement. Sometimes I have to reduce the hot water flow in the shower or sink to get the sound to go away, then I can open the faucet back up all the way. Checked the water filter and no dirt.

  • Anonymous Apr 12, 2009

    We installed a hand-me-down Takagi T-K1, and we experience the same problem. When we start running some hot water in the shower or kitchen, the unit fires up and vibrates loudly for perhaps 2 - 4 seconds (you can hear it throughout our 1 story home), then settles down. If we run hot water off and on in the kitchen sink, this process repeats itself each time.

  • greg719 Apr 14, 2009

    Just installed a TK-3 and every once in a while it developes a severe vibration.. If I turn off the hot water it stops and will then usually be ok. Any solutions

  • ldyd12 Apr 15, 2009

    I too have a vibrating problem on my T-KJr. tankless water heater.
    For a while I had been hearing this vibration in my home and could not figure out the source and then one day I noticed the hot water tank vibrating. I would not be using the hot water at all and this vibration in the tank would just start without any water usage. Last night I wanted to take a hammer to my tank because it was doing it every 5 minutes, so I went out and turned off ALL power to the heater and guess what... it still vibrates from the box even with no electric on..... I called the company who installed and they have never seen this before. The only thing they said was I had a possible water leak somewhere in my house and it's effecting the water pressure. If I turn the water off at the heater once the vibration starts it will stop but once I turn it back on the vibration continues. HELP!!! I might kill my tankless

  • Anonymous May 22, 2009

    I installed a TK3 and have the same problem- A severe vibration. It doesn't happen all the time just once in a while. I tried increasing my water pressure to the unit via a regulator to about 70 psi from 64 psi and it seemed to happen a little less often but I am not sure. It is hard to replicate the problem. Does anyone have any ideas? Would a water hammer arrestor help?

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I have the same problem with a T-K3. The Takagi support site recommended cleaning the burner. When the plummer arrived to attempt the cleaning, he was not convinced that it would help. He called the Takagi 800 number and let them hear the problem over the phone. They had him set the fan speed dip switch (#4 on the upper left bank of switches) to the up ("on") position and reset the system. Problem resolved! Why they didn't recommend this when I contacted them, I haven't got a clue. Anyway, the system hasn't vibrated in several days of use.

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

  • doreen12263
    doreen12263 Dec 02, 2012

    Thank you so much for posting this solution. Just moved #4 to the up position, no more noise!

  • Dlong
    Dlong Nov 16, 2013

    Does this increase the fan speed?

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Szstark's solution is correct. I had the same problem and when I switched the dip switch to #4 it worked (at least so far). If that does not work for you and you still have noise and vibration then you might need to "direct intake vent" the tankless system. The noise you hear, as it was explained to me, is the fan trying to handle the gas load coming into the unit, which means your're not getting enough air into the unit. Direct intake venting (review the page in your manual) is an additional vent that you can put to the left of the normal vent system. You then feed that additional vent to the outside.This will allow more air into the unit. You especially might need to do this if you live in higher elevations. I'm not a Takagi Tech but I have called them soooo many times about this problem and read the manual twice I feel I could start installing the units. My husband is impressed. Hope this helps....Christine

Posted on Jan 14, 2010

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Szstark's solution worked for us! Thanks SO MUCH--we've been living with this noise for months. The tech at Takagi explained to me that the vibrating noise is probably due to the "manifold pressure being out of whack." There are two possible solutions to this--the easy, diy, solution is to turn off the power, set the #4 dipswitch to 'on' as szstark describes, and then turn the power off again (no need to reset the system). This ups the speed of the fan 6% and changes the air/gas mixture, and, in some cases, will fix the problem (for us it did). If this doesn't work, then you need a plumber with a digital manometer to come in and adjust the manifold gas pressure. Takagi will email instructions for the plumber if you call their direct tech support line 866-882-5244.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

  • drwka Dec 10, 2009

    oops, I meant turn the power ON again in Solution #3, sorry.

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I have a Takagi TK-3 with a loud vibration.Dip switch #4 , of the upper bank to the up position . all done no more noise. Thank you Szstark for the help

Posted on Jan 25, 2010

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I have two Takagi T-KJr. instant water heaters; one for a hydronic floor heating system and one for culinary hot water. I am running my hydronic system at approx. 100psi and have never had a problem with vibrations on it. The culinary heater on the other hand has given us a lot of trouble with vibrations and when running hot water into the bathtub it has even turned off at times (on full blast). This is the only pipe in the house that is 3/4" all the way from the heater to the faucet. I increased the pressure on the culinary system via the pressure reducing valve (factury set to 50psi) where the water line enters the house and the vibrating stopped. Before doing that it is advised to check that other devices you might have on your system (hot or cold), e.g. water softener, water purifier, ice maker etc., can handle the increased pressure.

Posted on May 30, 2009

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These heaters are only rated to 30% glycol to prevent "Low Temperature Boiling". The noise that sounds "like boiling" may be exactly that if you are running 50% glycol (as you say you are).

Posted on Nov 16, 2009

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I have a TK2-jr which I dearly love but it too had a bad habit of vibrating whenever the internal squirrel cage fan became even slightly fouled. Increasing the fan speed with the dip switch helped, but like someone else said, it's only a temporary patch. My unit is located in the worst place possible for something that requires clean air, in the kitchen behind the clothes dryer. A fresh air intake was not feasible in this location. I was having to clean the fan every two weeks and was on the verge of going back to a tank type heater. The problem was that the unit just could not get enough clean air. Out of desperation I decided to try blocking the front air intake and installed a small 120mm axial fan with a filter over the fresh air intake hole on top. That took care of the problem but the axial fan ran all the time. To stop that, I got a small current actuated switch that senses current down to about 3 amps and passed the hot wire to the unit through the sensing switch in such a way that it would sense the current inflow when the unit started and start the axial fan automatically. When the heater shuts down, the axial fan now goes off. All I have to do is clean the filter on the axial fan now and then and I have no vibration problem. This is admittedly a fairly involved solution, but as I said, I love this heater and was willing to go the extra mile to make it work. The parts I used are available on Ebay and cost less than $50.

Posted on Apr 27, 2016

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Our tankless TK3 installed for 5 years.
Source of vibrating for Takagi tankless water heaters has been identified for my application. It is caused by a dirty blower fan. Once the water heater blower fan hits the resonant frequency of the heater enclosure, it will vibrate badly. Adjusting the fan speed dip switch is merely a band-aid for the problem - as it changes the fan run speed and thus avoids the resonant frequency - so no vibration. But I can assure you that the vibration will return eventually unless you clean the fan.

Step one, remove the cover, undo all the quick connect electrical items. remove the blower fan. use a 4-1 paint tool to pry up the metal clips on the fan housing use a socket wrench to remove the impeller. It goes at high rpm, so any amount of grime or dust could cause major vibration. I cleaned with garden hose, spray cleaner, then finish up with q-tips for the nooks and crannies. Clean the dust on the bottom of the tankless too.

Remove the front internal plates as well and clean the burner channels with pampers wet wipes and a chopstick. Use pampers as other brands can rip easier.

I scuffed up the probes with a brillo pad as well as they were corroded.

Take pictures as you disassemble the unit so you remember how it goes back together.

Once you put everything back and fire up the unit it will run as good as new. quiet as a mouse.

Clean the intake filter on the cover more often to avoid dust buildup. We have external intake on our unit as thought that might have been the issue, so we will be adding a 4" foam filter outside to filter the air to avoid a dirty blower in the future.

This cleaning process takes a while, but it is not terrible or complicated - just don't lose any parts.



takagi TK-JR vibrating noise - takagi-tk-jr-vibrating-noise-biokyz3hzlfd4ypxcun2hcte-5-1.jpg





takagi-tk-jr-vibrating-noise-biokyz3hzlfd4ypxcun2hcte-5-10.jpg

Posted on Aug 11, 2015

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TK-3 Dip Switch #4 seems to be working for me too.
I can't believe I have been putting up with this for years - ie, slowly
turning on the system seemed to work.

Opening the closet door seemed to help, hopefully
the 6% from dipswitch #4 will do the trick.

Thanks!
-Todd

Posted on Jun 23, 2013

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The #4 dip switch resolved the problem for me.... !!!!!!! Been driving me crazy for a week or so.

Posted on Feb 17, 2012

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Awesome! Thank you thank you! Flipping tiny switch #4 solved my problem!

Posted on Jan 27, 2012

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Hammering. put a expansion tank before the water heater on the cold side and this should fix the problem

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

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SOURCE: takagi TK-JR vibrating noise

Remove your hydronic pump and replace the flexible impeller coupling that couples the impeller blades to the pump motor. make sure you don't do this on a sat or, sunday (i hate house calls then) and, be sure you have a new pump housing gasket before you start the job. Also check the unit for loose pipe brackets

Posted on May 20, 2009

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Why wont takagi tk jr doesnt heat


Flowmeter.....Gas Pressure.....Ignition?
I'm not psychic.
Tk-Jr is a dependable 140-145,000 BTU 2nd Gen Unit SS Vent , <.82 EF.
Failure is a Tech Service issue and the Tech may need Factory Support from California. This is probably a pre-A.O. Smith/Takagi unit
Does the igniter spark 3 times than shut down and fan purge HE? Can you smell gas tracer (remember NG/LP is odorless w/o mercapthan in it)? Tech will need a digital Manometer for Line and Manifold Pressure Test. And a Multi-Meter Toll Free # on Unit or in Manual

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Pump not working-delay in hot water delivery.In the past,a vibration occurred when cold water running above the pump.Can this be repaired.Power operating to pump. Thanks, mel ross


Question not 100% clear.

1) The pump is not working? Does the pump make a noise? if pump is not working full-time, it can cause delay in arrival.
If pump motor is suspect, and outlet has power, then check override switch located on timer. Set override to Timer, move some of the trippers outward, then manually rotate timer dial until pump turns ON.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/IMG_9325-grundfos-timer-800.jpg
If no noise is detected, or noise stops and starts, or seems strained, or if pump is hot, then pump motor may have burned out.

2) If pump is working, and makes noise like a humming sound, and pump motor is not hot, but hot water is not circulating, then unplug pump so it will not overheat and burn up.
Disassemble the pump and cross-over piece. Clean piping with white vinegar or CLR. Do not soak in CLR or it will damage seals. Rinse parts thoroughly. Reassemble and see if problem is resolved.
If pump is vibrating, then suspects include sediment and/or air inside line, and this can be resolved by cleaning as described. Also install air vent to increase life of pump.

3) Other causes for hot water delay at faucet are crossover.
Crossover can be caused by bad single-handled faucet cartridge, and/or by clogged-or-failed check valve on cross-over piece on grundfos.
This type of problem lets cold water enter hot line, and causes delay in arrival of hot water. Clean-or-replace the grundfos cross-over piece, and replace bad faucet cartridge.
Open following link for testing instructions:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Crossover.html

Resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-recirculation-system.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Troubleshoot-recirculation.pdf

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My Takagi T-K jr. keeps flashing an error code 21....the water turns cold and we shut it off ....wait a few...then turn it back on....works for a little then wil flash again...have replaced the pressure...


In my case, the error code 21 was caused by the failure of the vent fan to run-on after shut off (easily verified by listening to the unit). The problem was not resolved by swapping either the fan or the control unit with another heater. I talked to a local service tech who had a couple of suggestions. One was to move DIP switch #6 to the upper position. After doing thisit will be necessary to re-initialize the controll by cycling power off and on. This fixed the problem. I emailed Takagi tech support to ask if I should consider this as permanent fix, or if there was something else I should do. Since I got no reply, I'll pass on the tech's other suggestion: buy a Rinnai.

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Takagi Jr Flash Water Heater Problem


explain your problem.
Takagi is a great tankless heater, very few problems...

need more info

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Yes the faucet could be a problem. Try changing for one which you know is ok.
The long run of pipework - each bend, elbow or joint all have a reducing effect on the flow, maybe enough to matter with a restricted outlet. none of this can be altered except by renewing with larger bore pipe - expensive!
Also there should be a dirt filter in the mains water input line/pipe. Try removing & cleaning. Try also removing , reconnecting and then the hot tap [faucet]

The boiler will have an actuator valve which fires it up when a certain flow of water is reached. If the flow is reduced AND the valve is worn, maybe a replacement. Not sure about it's USA construction but in the UK [it's called a diverter valve] many have a rubber diaphragm which is cheap to replace
Check also if it uses a flow sensor switch
Had a look at the Takagi web site and there are pdf's of manuals
takagi.com
Overall I am still thinking that the main prob is in the flow.
Hope I've helped - come back anytime
Rod.Davies

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We have a robbens underfloor heating system with a heatrae electric boiler on a floating floor system. The underflooe heating manifold has a grundfos Alpha + pump. What setting should this be at? Currently...


Venting of the system is when you re circulate the water or cooling fluid in higher speed to eliminate the air bubbles from the system.
If water circulate on a too higher rate does not have time to dissipate the heat so your floor is cold.
You need to go to 2 or even 1 depending on the length of the heating coil in the floor. Unfortunately the pump only has 2 speeds (setting 1 and setting 2) so whoever install your system had to calculate the length of the pipe for maximum efficiency. Try on 2 and if not satisfactory go to setting 1. If too hot on setting 1 then you can adjust the heat by reducing the amount of water from the shut-off volume control. It is a hit and miss situation, I know but unfortunately that is the only choice remaining now after the system is installed.

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Tankless on demand water heater.


Tankless water heaters normally take a little longer than a regular heater to provide hot water because they have to start and get warmed up. I'm guessing the heater uses a pilot light and that the short amount of hot water when you turn on the tap is hot because when the water is sitting still in the heater the heat from the pilot light is enough to get it hot. The tub faucet will get hot a lot faster than the shower because it lets a lot more water through and empties out the pipes faster than the shower. You could probably speed things up by letting the tub faucet run on completely hot for like 10-15 seconds and then turning on the shower.

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Takagi TK-JR vibrating noise


Remove your hydronic pump and replace the flexible impeller coupling that couples the impeller blades to the pump motor. make sure you don't do this on a sat or, sunday (i hate house calls then) and, be sure you have a new pump housing gasket before you start the job. Also check the unit for loose pipe brackets

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