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The chimes an turn signal noise come out driver door speaker . Both front speakers not working could be a blown circuit fuse inside the radio or just blown front speaker channel . Your best bet , take it to a GM dealer or someother qualified repair shop . You have no idea of the complexity of this . The radio can set DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes , believe it or not !
DTC B1025, B1035, B1045, or B1055
DTC B1025 01: Audio Output 1 Left Front Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1025 02: Audio Output 1 Left Front Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1035 01: Audio Output 2 Right Front Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1035 02: Audio Output 2 Right Front Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1045 01: Audio Output 3 Left Rear Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1045 02: Audio Output 3 Left Rear Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1055 01: Audio Output 4 Right Rear Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1055 02: Audio Output 4 Right Rear Circuit Short to Ground
Each of the audio output channel circuits (+) and (-), at the radio and audio amplifier have a DC bias voltage that is one half of the battery voltage. When using a DMM, each of the audio output channel circuits will measure approximately 6.5V DC. The audio being played on the system is produced by a varying AC voltage that is centered around the DC bias voltage on the same circuit. The AC voltage is what causes the speaker cone to move and produce sound. This voltage will vary depending on what type of audio is being listened to, talk or music, and type of music, as well as the volume setting of the system. Low volume and talk settings will measure around 1V AC and less, where constant music may measure 3V AC and slightly higher.
DTC B1287 01: Amplifier Control Signal Circuit Short to Battery
DTC B1287 02: Amplifier Control Signal Circuit Short to Ground
DTC B1287 04: Amplifier Control Signal Circuit Open
The radio provides a remote amplifier mute output circuit to control overall muting of the remote amplifier. The amplifier receives pulse width modulated (PWM) signals on the control circuit at varying duty cycle percentages for controlling muted and unmuted functions of the amplifier. Circuitry internal to the radio monitors the remote amplifier mute circuit for faults and sets the appropriate DTC when faults are detected.
A few things can cause this to happen. First we should check the computer. Take a pair of headphones or other speak set and check if sound comes from both sides. If to then the computer output is correct, else the computer is channeled to output to one side.
To change sound settings, if this is windows, go to your control panel and look for sounds option. In there you can change speaker settings, change volumes. On the volume control you can balance the speaker output. center the slider to make both correct.
If sound is coming from the PC correctly with a test object you will need to check your speakers for a fade option, not many have this it is just a suggestion. If no fade option exists, make sure the plug is totally seated. Improperly seated plugs will cause only 1 channel to be outputted or none.
If all the above does not help then check the cabled leading form the computer to speakers for damage as well as checking the wire between the left and right speakers for damage. Many times the output lead from the right to he left gets damaged from stress or other things and will stop output. Wiggle and pull the wire gently in each direction if they don't physically look damaged to see if sound is produced. if it is then the wire is internally damaged or loose from the speaker.
I have the same problem sir, only the speaker with volume control works. Earlier I used to twist the volume control this way and that way to get the sound from the other speaker also. Now the same technique doesn't work anymore.
I'm having this same problem and have sort of solved it with a really wierd technique I found at Logitech. Evidently this problem is related to the control pod rather then the RCA jack. Try this:
Unplug the control pod from the subwoofer
Turn off the main switch
Turn the volume knob one full turn, tap the knob
Repeat again (2 times)
Replug the control pod
Turn on the main switch and the control pod
See what happens
I found that this got the speaker working finicky after it was almost totally useless. It seems to be cutting out randomly, but fidgeting with the control pod or it's connector jack fixes it. No clue what the deal is here, but your problem is identical to mine so take some time to screw around with these components with music running so you can hear if it suddenly works.