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Leak inside motor casing

I hear air leak inside the plastic housing and compressor runs continuously

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  • edward woodard May 11, 2010

    what is the type and model of your compressor

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  • 13 Answers

Broken line under the cover

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Excessive air pressure buildup that's blowing safety valve and can hear air leaking inside unit.this compressor is only about a year old!thankyou.


Excessive air pressure...if your safety valve is truely popping off, is caused by a bad pressure switch or a loose wire connection at the switch. It's a little odd to be leaking too. There is a couple a possibilities here. The most common spots for leakage is the "tube seal", the aluminum transfer/supply tube, or the outlet air hose. Usually a leak will keep a unit from acheiving full pressure causing the unit ot run continuously. The other common leakage spot is the "check valve" and a leak here usually makes the auto restart (upon using air from the tank, taking pressure below the set lower limit), not work,stalling the motor and popping a breaker. See ereplacementparts for a proper breakdown and identification of parts. Spliting the clamshell is a "pain in the neck" for these little units, but you"ll likely have to do that to find your internal leak. Carefully avoiding electrically exposed parts, spray a soapy water solution at suspected joints if the leak is not obvious.

Oct 20, 2012 | Dewalt D55141 Oil-Free Hand Carry...

1 Answer

My compressor since new, at times will leak air from under the cover while the pump is running and after it cuts off. Sometimes works perfect. Took it apart and could not see a problem. Any suggestion


There is a check valve that is wired into the on off switch. If there are no air leaks when the unit is not running then it is normal. The other possibility is a leak where the rubber hose conncets to a metal tube inside the plastic housing.

Jul 13, 2011 | Porter Cable C2002 150 Psi 6 Gal...

1 Answer

In the freezer the motor is running blowing cold air but not freezing


Hi,

The first thing I would do is to check the compressor and the condenser fan. Remove the cover on the back of the fridge and check how hot is the compressor? Is the condenser fan turning well? Also check the condenser coil under the fridge, it is very possible it needs cleaning.
If the condenser fan is not working properly then it has to be replaced.
If the condenser fan motor is fine and the cleaning did not help then the sealed system is low on Freon and in such case you need a certified technician to fix a leak and to charge the system.The compressor is essential to the performance of your chest freezer. It is the motor that powers the entire cooling system and if your freezer has ceased to work, you need to check it. This unit is located at the back of the freezer and sits in plastic housing; it can be identified by its football shape.
You can tell that the compressor is broken if your relay is fine or if you hear a light hum followed by a clicking sound and silence. If your freezer is relatively new, it might still be under warranty and you could get a replacement compressor for free. If not, your compressor will need to be replaced by a professional.
Investigate the Thermostat
The fact that your chest freezer is not working could be down to the thermostat. This is the unit that regulates the temperature inside the freezer. To test your thermostat, remove the access panel on the side of the freezer. Next, use a screwdriver to remove the actual thermostat from the inside wall but do not disconnect the tube that runs from the unit into the freezer.
Set the range scale on Rx1 on your multimeter to test for continuity. If your multi-tester reads continuity, your freezer problem lies in another spot. If your multi-tester does not read continuity, it means your thermostat is not working and you will need to replace it. Remove the tube from the old thermostat and attach it to the new one. Screw the new unit into place on the freezer wall and make sure the tube is not coiled or kinked as this will prevent the new thermostat from working properly.


Good luck.

May 10, 2011 | GE 21.7 Cu. Ft. Top-Mount Refrigerator...

3 Answers

I have a C2006 Type 4 Porter Cable pancake compressor which will build pressure all the way up to 150psi then cut off as it should but there will be a loud hissing and pressure drop until the cut on...


first you have a reciprocating pump and the hissing you ear probably comes from the unloading valve on the pressure switch(it will look like a bike tire valve)if there is air coming out the valve when the compressor is off it probably means you have a bad check valve.This valve is use to unload the pressure inside the pump for an easy start .a motor always drive more amps on start up if you cant unload this pressure you will trip the overload(you probably have a reset button on your motor)check the specs on your pressure relief valve ,its a small pump maybe its just adjusted to high.in this case your pressure relief valve will open .If the pressure is fine and there is air coming out the relief valve then you have to replace it!to adjust your pressure turn the screw on your pressure switch clockwise to increase and counterclockwise to decrease .usually you have a 30 psi between cut-in and cut-off called the pressure differential.It can be adjusted on some pressure switch.be sure you put some teflon tape on the treads if you replace something to avoid air leaks.hopes this help!

Jan 23, 2011 | Porter Cable C2002 150 Psi 6 Gal...

1 Answer

I have an H1506FWH Husky 6 gal 1.5 hp compressor that won't build air pressure. While running I noticed a change in the sound but it kept running. However, I no longer had much pressure. Now I can't get...


Locate the piston housing and remove the outer plate 4 screws
then tap on the next plate and when you remove it ( its the reed plate) you will most likely see a hole in one or more of the reeds
I am not technical but I have the same peoblem and I am trying to replace the reed plate on mine when I saw this. Good luck

Nov 22, 2010 | Craftsman 3 gal. Air Compressor, 1.5 hp,...

2 Answers

I have had this problem intermittently - often it occurs if I left the compressor pressurized overnight (i.e. forgot to drain it.) In the morning the pressure has gone down - I can turn it back on and...


There is only one relief valve and it is on the outside. The valve is set to open if pressure builds past 160psi. You may be having trouble with the pressure regulator (large knob with high/low arrow). This regulator will leak at times. You can determing if it is leaking by unplugging /shutting off the compressor when you hear the leak. If the leak stops as you shut it off then most likely due to discharge tube seal at the head of the pump. If you continue to hear leak after shut off turn pressure knob counter clockwise all the way out. If you hear a change in the amount of leak or stops then pressure valve is problem. Parts are available at dewalt service center or at www.toolpartsdirect.com

Oct 03, 2010 | Porter Cable C2002 150 Psi 6 Gal...

1 Answer

The motor runs continuously and the pressure is low. What are the possible causes for this?


You haven't given any model number information, but typically on any air compressor if it won't build pressure, either you have a leak in your piping, tank, hose or the compressor cannot move the required cfm of air. Could be a valve problem or piston, relief valve? Do you hear any air leaking. There are som many different models from cheap throw away compressors to thousands of dollar models. HArd to say without more information

Jul 19, 2010 | Dayton Audio Dayton Speedaire Air...

2 Answers

Can not build working pressure pressure......


The most likely problem is a burned out "run capacitor" on the motor. If you continue to try to run your compressor in this condition it will burn out the "starting capacitor" and/or motor as well.
It's also possible that you have a bad start up pressure relief valve, this valve will be between the compressor and the tank. If this valve is working properly you should hear a hiss of air as the compressor motor shuts off.
A reasonable motor repair shop should be able to replace the run capacitor for $20-$50 plus inflation, depending on your area.
If you need to test the start up pressure relief valve, you need to take it loose at the compressor or tank. Just loosening the line may not work depending on the style used. Note: sometimes just taking this loose to test it causes you to have to replace the valve.

May 29, 2010 | Craftsman 1 Hp, 4 Gal. Air Compressor

2 Answers

I have 94'crown vic with rear air ride suspension problems. The back end won't rise. Any help is appreciated.


Start by checking the fuses for the air compressor for the rear suspension. these will be listed in your owners manual. Failing this it could be the compressor motor or wiring to the motor, unless you can hear the compressor working. If the compressor is running but not adjusting the back of the car then you have an air leak in one of the shocks or air lines.
if you find it is a fuse, also listen for the compressor motor running and an air leak, if the system is running constantly to make up for a leak , that may be what blew the fuse.

Hope this helps
Ed

Mar 29, 2010 | 1994 Ford Crown Victoria

1 Answer

4wd wont work on 1999 chevy tracker but front drive shaft is turning?


The locking hub control system is not engaging properly. On the 99 Tracker this is a compressed air system that consists of an air pump (compressor), electrical wiring to power and control the air pump, and air hoses that lead to an actuator inside the front differential housing. If there is a leak in the system the PCM will run the air pump for 10 seconds and then shut off, and your propeller shaft can turn all day long, but the front axles will remain free floating. Turn on your key, not your engine, and engage four wheel high. Go listen near the passenger front bumper for the air compressor. If you hear it, then the compressor control and the compressor itself are likely fine. If it shuts off after 10 secs or so, and your 4WD light isn’t on, the PCM timed out the compressor out and shut the compressor off to protect it. You will have to find the leak and fix it. If you are lucky, it’s the air line leading to the front differential; and not the air line inside the differential housing, or the air bladder in the locking actuator, which also resides inside the font diff. If the compressor shuts off and the 4WD light is on (this means the PCM did not shut the air compressor off due to timeout, so the pressure switch read 5-7 psi and the pump shut itself off), you likely don’t have a leak, and something mechanical has the actuator hung up inside the front differential. Lastly if you don't hear the compressor run at all, you either have a faulty compressor, or some sort of wiring problem in that circuit.....it could be as simple as a blown fuse. Good luck.

Apr 25, 2009 | Chevrolet Tracker Cars & Trucks

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