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Re: I am trying to get the hand break attached
There is a screw in adjustment to allow you to install it, screw both ends if they both are adjustable, then you can reattach, after than screw each end back out to adjust. Hope this helps you! and Merry Christmas!
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check that the brake pads aren't catching on the rim or the tire, check that the brake cable isn't rusty inside the housing or corroded. check the bolt that attaches the brake caliper to the frame to see if it is too tight.
rear wheels on saturn's I believe have drum brakes - these can tend to seize up when worn through and the brake shoe rivets start to cut into the wheel housing or if not worn out, just be tight enough to keep wheel from spinning freely. Also the light on parking brake is a simple switch attached to the lever and is not reliable. I've had parking brake cables rust up and seize which can be a pain - generally requires a replacement cable and often the connecting yoke and rods.
As for the wheel not coming off - that's unrelated to the brakes - the brakes act on the actual wheel hub to which the lugs attach the wheel and tire. Many times it is problem of rust and dirt caked up between the wheel and the hub. I'd suggest rapping the wheel with a hammer, go all around the perimeter several times on the back side - use a piece of wood between hammer and wheel to protect the wheel from getting dented - the hammer "shocks" usually will vibrate thru the steel or alloy to loosen caked up dirt and rust. Can't think of much more you can do - maybe others have a suggestion. worst case might be to bring it to a tire shop and pay them $10-$20 to get it off - if it is just for inspection they can put it right back on for you. If you are looking to swap it out with another tire/wheel, then they will charge more since they often ding you for balancing it (which is a good idea regardless).
The wires going into the right hand rear brake light has a red,green wire with a silver band. This is the wire that powers the 3rd brake light. Disconnect the wireing plug from the light fitting and meter out the red/green and silver wire from there up to the 3rd light, this will prove if there is a break in the wire ( most likely are is inside rubber grommets at tailgate hinge. ) This will prove the wiring. I got a spare piece of wire and ran a jumper cable from the silver track on the light fitting relating to the green red and silver wire ( top left track ) to the light fitting and another wire to earth, activated the brake and the light came on proving a break in the wire.
after placing the tire in place simply take the brake glide elbow l and after squeezing the brakes together place it in the hanger its the floppy bar on the left side brake arm after fitting these together place the rubber boot on the remainder of the glide and voila your done :) this is based on a v-brake system that was simply opened and had not had cable removed if its another brake style simply leave a comment here stating so and ill walk you through another style if needed ok :)
I will tell you how to remove the tire but it is a difficult task, best done at a tire repair shop where they have a lift so they are not working on their back. There is a spring-loaded, wire actuated metal clip that holds the spare from dropping. It actually prevents the mushroomed end of the plastic sleeve on the tire cable from passing. You have to loosen the tire, then reach in with your hand and squeeze the clip with one hand, and angle the plastic sleeve with the other to release the tire. After I got mine down, I took the wire piece out. I think the wire piece was supposed to be some kind of release, but it doesn't work very well.
I did no find assembly instructions specific to this model. From what I see in pictures and descriptions it looks like a standard caliper brake on the front wheel. The knob/plug on the cable should fit into a groove and hole on the brake lever if the cable is slack enough to make the connection. You may have to loosen the cable tension nuts at the caliper and at the brake handle (labeled 1 & 2 in the instructions) to get enough slack.
Generic instructions are at:
See pages 21-23 for instructions about adjusting the brakes. You will have to do this after making the connection and it shows the various cable tension nuts that you can use to get enough slack in the cable to connect it. If you loosen the cable tension nuts (1&2) enough you should be able to remove the cable from the slot through the housing, expose the attachment slot in the brake handle by pressing it against the handlebar, insert the knob/plug into the hole and then work the cable back into the slot in the housing. Tighten up the tension nuts and make the final adjustments as described in the instructions.