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Low freon: When not running the pressure equalizes. When the unit starts the pressure drops on the low side and the low pressure switch turns it off. This protects the compressor when there is not enough freon to carry the oil it needs
Hi there I have seen this a few time's while working on them. The SP stand's for shore power. If you can't get APU to shut down remove the top inspection cover. There is a lever by the fuel solenoid you can push and hold and it will shut the APU down. Do you know if the APU is equipped with shore power? If not I had one do this to me after I power washed it off. If you remove the top cover on the APU on the back wall on the left had side there is a controller. This is called your APU controller. There are to plug's in controller. remove them and check the weather stripping on the plug. I have seen them leak and let moisture in there and it would cause the APU to do funky thing's. If not it's possibly a APU controller. I'd check them few thing's and if you still can't determine a problem get back with me and we can diagnose further.
Hi there, Would this be a preheat / comfort pro APU? If so I would start with removing the top cover on the APU. There will be a fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse on the back wall on the left side of the APU above the APU controller. Check and see if the fuse is blown. If it's not then the CCU board under the bunk/ bed isn't seeing power. Either 12v harness or the communication harness both from the APU controller to the CCU board are rubbed on the frame, or the CCU board isn't transferring power properly. The CCU board is under the bunk. There are 4 3/4 bolt's that hold the lid on. Start the APU and look at the board you should have green light's light up. these light's are called input light's. Then chose a function on the driver control panel as in heat, a/c, low or high fan and see if they come on. If the driver control pane are showing the function on look down at the CCU board and see if there are orange light's on. these light's would be your output light's. There's a lot of cause's for this problem if you need further help feel free to ask. Thank's
You post is not clear as to where the freeze-up is occurring. I'm going to assume the outdoor unit is frozen up.
Heat Pumps don't generally freeze up at 60 degrees. If the ice around the unit has an uneven pattern (for example a thick spot around the center or at the very bottom) could indicate a low refrigerant charge. If the ice is even throughout, it may be one of the following:
*Sticking Contactor*.....turn the system off at your thermostat and check to make sure the unit outside shut off. If it doesn't turn off, it is likely to be the contactor.
*Failed Defrost Thermostat*.....if the defrost thermostat fails "open", the system will never go into defrost.
*Failed Defrost Control Board*......this could also prevent the system from going into defrost
*Failed Reversing Valve*........put your system in COOL mode and check to see if it will blow cold air inside approx 16 - 22 degF lower than room temperature.
*Failed/Failing Condensor Fan Motor*.......ensure the condenser fan motor is running during heat and cool modes. The condensor fan motor will not run in OFF/Satisfied Mode or in Defrost Mode.
I hope this helps. Good Luck! :-)
Assuming we are talking about a Heat Pump system with an outdoor condensing unit and an indoor air handler, it is not uncommon for electric bills to escalate during the harder winter months.
Typically, the auxilary heat light energizes whenever the electric strip heaters are in use. These heaters are used to supplement the heat from your heat pump system which will be unable to maintain desired occupied setpoint with outdoor temperatures below 35degF. At outdoor temperatures below 35degF is not uncommon for the heat pump to run non-stop and the electric heaters will cycle on and off as the temp in the house drops between 1/2 to 1 1/2degF below setpoint. The electric heaters will also come on when the system goes into a defrost mode...defrost modes typically last anywhere between 2 - 8 minutes. The emergency lights, depending on your thermostat, will come on whenever the thermostat is placed in EMER HT. Some systems energize the emergency heat lights to indicate there is a problem with your condensor unit.
I suggest you ensure the thermostat is in HEAT mode and not EMER HT mode. Also, while the system is running, step outside and visually inspect your condensing unit. Is it running? Does it appear and sound like it is running normally?
Don't forget your air filter. This is the single most important and most-neglected maintenance item on your system.
If after these steps, you still feel as though you are having problems and would like to try and correct them yourself, please let us know.
I hope you find this information helpful. Good Luck to you! :-)
in all honesty, it's a ridiculous gimmick. the system still runs the same as it would when you are using the A/C, however in Dry Mode there is a small heater in the unit which runs also, to prevent the system from lowering your room's air temp. a/c's always dehumidify air anyway, so basically dry mode is like running a/c and heat at the same time. $$$$$$.
Yes, you can bypass the tstat by using a jumper wire between the power wire and the heat side. These units are typically millivolts and require a special tstat. But anyway, that's how you check to see if it's the tstat.
Simple Question: Did you check to see if the fan switch on the
t-stat is in ON or AUTO? If ON the fan runs nonstop. If in auto the fan cycles with the outdoor unit.
next does the fan shut off if you turn the t-stat to off?
A stuck relay should keep the fan running all the time.
Sometimes if the relay is stuck you can whack the side of the Air Handler and the connection will break.
Sometimes instead of a relay there is a stack switch.
It's a little black stack of 3 disks this is a bi-metal switch.
they do get stuck more often than relays.
The fan relay may be on a electronic board. I don't know for sure without seeing your unit.
Good Luck Phil