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Screw that holds the Sanding Disk mechanism to the Motor shaft comes loose.

I have tightened the screw several times but it still comes loose. How can this be corrected? The sander is only 5 months old.

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  • retired68 Jan 02, 2009

    I found that the Fan Balance hub has broken and therefore it can't be tightened. I have ordered this part and will repair it myself. Thanks for all you help and support. That's all the Ridgid for me. My Cordless Drill switch went out and it's only a few months old. No parts available and no ETA when it will be in. Supposidly Ridgid is getting me another Drill to replace this one. Thanks again,

    Jim

  • David Ford
    David Ford May 11, 2010

    what brand and model number we talking about. It is possible to get a "nylok" screw that would resist backing out. Please advise and I will try and help.

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    i forgot how to tighten the screw in the base on my 3 in 1 sander

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  • 359 Answers

Use the original screw and go to auto supplier and get lock tight blue or medium use , put on screw and reinstall should solve and if you need to get it back loose add a little heat with a heat gun or blow dryer

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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1 Answer

Bar that hold the sewing foot is loose


If the comment already posted did not answer your question, here is another thing to check. If the screw that attaches the foot and ankle to the presser foot bar is tight, and the foot can still be moved, it is likely that the presser foot bar has become loose within the lifting mechanism. You could save yourself some trouble by taking your machine to a sewing machine repair shop, but if you would rather avoid that expense, do the following. Remove the needle bar and take up mechanism cover on the left side of the machine. This is held on by a single phillips head screw on the back side of the machine, which, with the back of the machine facing you, should be on the top right side of the machine. Once this cover is removed you will be able to see two vertical metal shafts, one is attached to your needle clamp and needle, and should be in the front. The other is the presser foot bar, and will be behind the needle bar. There should be a small allen screw about halfway up that shaft that tightens onto the bar. With the presser foot properly positioned on the needle plate, tighten this allen screw. Don't tighten the screw too tightly, as this can damage the presser bar, just make sure it's nice and snug. Make sure the presser foot raises and lowers properly, and re-attach the needle bar cover.
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How to put screw back in the end of a dremil


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1 Answer

Power tilt and trim has no electric power to it?


I had the same problem with my 50HP 1998 Johnson outboard trim and tilt. What I found, after removing the trim and tilt electric motor, was that the brush holders and brushes had gummed up to the point where the brushes were seized up and no longer making contact with the armature's commutator. Fixing this problem is rather simple. Before starting, note that it could be wise to obtain a few inexpensive parts that may need replacement: the large O-ring between the tilt motor base plate and reservoir housing, and new motor brush springs. Even without these parts, you can at least do a temporary though effective repair if you need use of the boat right away, and I'll explain how.
To get started, first you need to loosen the small pressure relief screw, to left of the larger drain plug screw on the tilt/trim fluid reservoir base. Loosen about 2 and 1/2 turns. Then you can manually tilt the engine up and engage the locking lever to keep the engine raised.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-0.jpg
You should be doing this with the boat out of the water and on a trailer on dry ground. Lay out a drop cloth on ground, beneath the tilt/trim unit to catch any screw that might fall when removing the tilt/trim motor, as you probably will drop one and it will be almost impossible to find without the drop cloth in place. Looking at the tilt/trim motor housing, you will notice that there are three small screws which fasten the housing to the base plate, and 4 larger phillips head screws that fasten the base plate to the fluid reservoir. You want to remove the 4 large screws. Getting at the two screws behind the tilt/trim motor is the hard part with the engine attached to the boat, but it is made relatively easy by using an appropriate tool. I used a 3/8 inch drive socket with a driver extension, fitted to a socket of the correct size to insert a large phillips head drive bit. To prevent the drive bit from falling out of the socket, I used a dab of silicone sealant inside the socket before inserting the drive bit. Here's a photo of the tool I used:

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-1.jpg
This tool would have been better suited for the job if it had been a quarter inch shorter. I had to lift the engine a bit more, to gain clearance, by placing a wedge under the locking lever. For each of the 2 large screws behind the tilt/trim motor, apply a dab of silicone sealant to the tip of the phillips driver bit before removing the screws. This will help to prevent removed screws from falling, though you may still have one or both drop. If one or both fall, but don't fall to the drop cloth, use a magnetic pick-up tool to fish them out before attempting to remove the tilt/trim motor from the fluid reservoir, otherwise a screw could fall into the reservoir and be difficult to remove. With all the screws safely removed, you can now lift the tilt/trim motor away from the reservoir housing. It is fitted to the housing snugly, so you will probably have to gently tap against the motor housing a few times before it will budge. Here's a photo showing the underside of the motor, with its baffle and motor shaft pump drive socket in place.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-3.jpg
If you don't see the motor shaft pump drive socket as shown in this photo then it will either be found attached to the hydraulic pump, or may have fallen into the fluid reservoir, in which case you will need to find and remove it. You will need to carefully remove the large rubber O-ring that you see here surrounding the round baffle plate. With the tilt/trim motor removed, the pump reservoir is now exposed as shown below, and you should cover the reservoir immediately to prevent any debris or insects from falling into the fluid. Notice that the hydraulic pump's drive shaft, which the drive motor's shaft socket fits over, is shown at the center of the reservoir. I removed fluid so that it would be visible in the photo.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-6.jpg
After you cover the reservoir to protect it, you can remove the round baffle plate from the tilt/trim motor base, and you can remove the motor housing and armature from the base plate after removing the three small phillips head screws. Next, remove the brush holders from the base plate, and what you see will look pretty much like the photo shown below. You will notice that there is some rust and corrosion where some water had evidently leaked in past the large O-ring. You'll want to remove the rust and other deposits from the housing and the brush holders, and you can also remove the reddish-brown plate seen here to clean beneath that.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-10.jpg
If either or both of the brush holder springs is damaged, they will need to be replaced. For an effective yet temporary repair, until you can obtain the correct springs, either visit the local hardware store or take apart a few ball point pens until you find a similar diameter spring that you can use. I actually cut such a spring in half to get two springs of appropriate length. Notice that the tips of the brushes are curved to fit against the armature's commutator, and when reassembling them into the brush holders you want the curvature to be properly placed. With the base plate ready for reassembly, grasp the tilt/trim motor housing in one hand, as shown below, and pull the armature out of the housing. It will require that you pull ******* the armature, because the housing's field magnets want to keep the armature in place.

power-tilt-trim-no-electric-power-lprqsg1xrvtxvcti0x1fazpm-3-15.jpg
With the armature removed, wipe clean the interior of the housing as well as any accumulation on the armature. Lubricate the bearing surfaces at both shaft ends. Clean the commutator with some 400 grit wet-or-dry sanding paper so that it shines as seen above and push the armature back into the motor housing. Now you're ready to reassemble everything. Reattach the motor housing to the base plate, making sure that you hold the brushes into the brush holders, against brush spring tension, to prevent damaging the brushes. The mating surface of the motor housing to base plate, as well as the mating surface of the base plate to pump reservoir, should have a light bead of silicone sealant applied, as we've already seen that without that the unit is prone to some amount of water leakage. Don't tighten the screws fully, as you want to allow the sealant time to cure before doing so. This will give you a better seal. When reinstalling the tilt/trim motor with attached base plate into the pump reservoir, carefully line up the drive socket of the motor shaft with the hexagonal hydraulic pump shaft so that they will come together properly. Since the base plate fits snugly in the reservoir housing, you won't be able to turn the base plate to obtain alignment. Tighten down each of the four large base plate screws slowly and equally to draw the base plate into the reservoir housing evenly, but don't tighten all the way until the silicone sealant cures. Then tighten the 4 large screws and the 3 smaller ones, and you're power tilt should be ready to go after ensuring that the fluid is topped off. Top off the fluid and retighten the screw shown in the first photo before unlocking and letting the engine down with the power tilt. You should raise and lower the power tilt several times to purge air from the system. Air is purged by loosening the smaller screw in photo #1, and then retightening it after you hear the air escape, after which additional fluid should be added with the large upper screw of the reservoir housing removed and then replaced.

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1 Answer

Pulley on motor shaft is loose it turns without the shaft moving


Most pulleys have an allen set screw or keyway to hold the pulley in place.

If it has a fan belt on it remove it from the pulley, look in the groove of the pulley

where the belt sits, if there is a set screw, tighten it with the correct tool.

once secure, you will have solved your problem. good luck!

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Little Giant pump 3MD-SC set screw on motor shaft in loose. When tightened the rotating part of the pump drags on the motor housing. Am I missing a spacer?


The set screw is to hold the rotating part in place while
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Just send in your e-mail for further assistance.

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1 Answer

Spot welds broke on center disk from the blades


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1 Answer

Dishwasher makes a high pitch whine when it runs


instead of motor check out the motor impeller that can make the high pitched noise if rusted or cracked. ------------- Motor and pump assembly screw and impellor help....
 
One of the most common question that I get on a dishwasher repair is "how does that motor and pump impellor screw come out?"
Inside many dishwasher pump assemblies is a screw that goes through the upper impellor and screws directly into the motor shaft. Since the motor shaft and screw are made of metal...you guessed it...they can / will rust. The screw can rust and become very tight and difficult to remove!! These screws are normally a right ( regular ) hand thread, socket or nut driver can be used to remove the screw. One hard thing to do is to hold the impellor still so the screw can be removed, they often just turn together. The impellor may be jammed with a screwdriver to hold it still so the screw can be removed...sometimes the impellor can be help still by placing a rag on it and hold tight with your hand, the rag will help prevent a sharp edge on the impellor from cutting your fingers. The odd time that screw is too rusted into place, soaking a little rust buster or 3in1 oil on it over night may help loosen it. Sometimes trying to tighten the screw a little at first will help break it free. There are some tool ( see below ) that can be purchased to help hold the impellor still so the screw can be removed, these are only for a few models and pump assembly styles.
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Frigidaire seal - impellor remover and install tool
Once the screw is removed, the next obstacle is the impellor can also get stuck onto the motor shaft. Many times I have to break off the old impellor. A sharp blow straight down with a hammer and flat screwdriver will often crack the plastic impellor...careful not to damage the pump body! If the motor shaft has indeed rusted, clean it up really good with sand cloth.

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1 Answer

How to remove round sander for iron shaped one


You need to remove the allen head cap screw in the center of the base, then remove the washer, and pull the base straight down off the sander. If you can't get it to pull off, try gently rocking it a little as you exert pressure to pull it off.

Random orbit sanding base
With this sanding base, you can use the tool as a random orbit sander.
Fitting and removing the sanding base (fig. B)
- Place the sanding base (3) onto the spindle (10).
- Place the washer (7) onto the spindle.
- Insert the Allen screw (8) into the screw hole in the spindle.
- Tighten the Allen screw using the Allen key (9) supplied.
- To remove the sanding base, remove the Allen screw (8) and washer (7).
Fitting sanding sheets (fig. C)
- Hold the tool with the sanding base (3) facing upwards.
- Place the sanding sheet (11) onto the sanding base (3). The holes in the sheet do not need
to line up with the holes in the base.
Large detail sanding base
With this sanding base, you can use the tool as a detail sander or an orbital sander.
Fitting and removing the sanding base (fig. D & E)
For detail sanding, the pointed end should face forward as in fig. D. For sanding large areas,
the pointed end should face to the back as in fig. E.
- Place the sanding base (12) onto the spindle (10). Make sure that the legs of the base
locate into the tool.
- Place the washer (7) onto the spindle.
- Insert the Allen screw (8) into the screw hole in the spindle.
- Tighten the Allen screw using the Allen key (9) supplied.

You can also view the factory manual here: http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/479727-00,MS1000%20SANDER.pdf

Be patient, and good luck! Let me know if this doesn't solve your problem and you still need help!

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1 Answer

Loose sanding belt


Hi, Consult your user manual for the instructions to install a new belt.  Follow these instructions selectively to tighten the belt tension. Here they are....  
CHANGING DRIVE BELT


  Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the two screws
in the center of the pulley cover.
  Remove the cover.
  Raise sanding belt to the vertical sanding position.
  Next, loosen the hex head set screw. Raising the motor
pulley releases the belt tension.
  Remove the old drive belt.
  Fit the new drive belt on the drive pulley first and then on
the motor pulley.
  Test belt tension by squeezing the belt with your fingers.
  Adjust the belt tension with the hex head set screw until
there is about 1/4 in. (6 mm) of give.
  Tighten the belt tension nut securely.
Note: Excessive tightness on the drive belt may cause
increased noise and overload the motor. Excessive
looseness on the drive belt may cause the drive belt to
fail prematurely and make a severe chattering noise.
  Using a phillips head screwdriver, reinstall the pulley cover
and the two phillips head screws. Tighten securely.


Good Luck!  Middles

Jan 08, 2009 | Tools & Hardware - Others

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