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Re: broken ceramic resistor
I haven't found these to be that easy to find in the proper value. However, what they do is dim the lamp (form High to Low). If the ceramic is the only part broken - it is common - as long as there is no risk of contact with the projector's metal frame, there is no problem to solve. It will continue to work fine for years. Unless the resistor has been moved or lifted a bit towards the projector's body, it can't come into contact with the body so there's no shock hazard. But determine the position before using it in case the previous user monkeyed with it a bit.
If in fact it no longer works, first, check that the soldered connections on either side are good. If they are, you can either cut the resistor out with strong diagonal wire cutters or, assuming no shock risk as above, ignore it. All that will happen is that you will not have the Low lamp function; you'll only have the High.
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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The projector may not be jammed. It is very common in this generation of projectors for the cycle solenoid "link" to be broken. The "link" connects & transfers power from the cycle solenoid to the slide change mechanism. If this is the case, you can still get parts from: www.micro-tools.com The problem now become this is a difficult repair if you have no experience inside a Kodak Slide Projector. My advice is to contact a factory trained repair dealer with this information (although it very well may be cheaper and faster to buy a used projector on the internet !). Good Luck !!
Hi! How long have you been using this? The heat coil might be worn out. If it is, it's best to buy a new one rather having it repaired. Repair will cost you more and will take longer than buying a new one.
It a 100% convergence problems.Convergence problems very easy diagnose.The picture look like 3D,colors lines don't lines up.Fuzzy,out of focus.Convergence controls don't work to lines up any colors cross. WS-55511 uses a single convergence IC chip---a STK-393-110. IF convergence is off and will not adjust it needs along with any of the 3.9 ohm resistors that protect it to be replaced. What happens in these and most projection sets is the chip is mounted on a large metal heat sink with fins to keep it cool----a white grease is applied to the back of the chip to quickly transfer heat--after some years the grease dries out from the heat and the chip fails. Considering you can buy the IC on Ebay for about 14 dollars plus shipping (I can tell you the best seller there to look for) if you or someone you know can do the repair you can save the set and a LOT of money. Most shops are going to get 200-300 for this repair
Hi, A yellowing image, especially if it's circular in shape indicates the BLUE LCD polarizer is burned from overheating or just a lot of hours on it & it needs to be replaced to make the yellow go away. You can purchase a new filter from hundreds of online retailers. Just do a search on Google for "NEC VT595 Filter" REPAIRS: If you're interested I do replace the polarizer filter panels. I have parts in stock for the NEC VT595. The repair quote is $50 & if you have it repaired the $50 is put toward the repair. The repair will include cleaning all the LCD panels, filters, lenses, etc. on the inside which will bring back the original sharp picture again. If you like you can email me at firstname.lastname@example.org for more information on having it repaired. Thank You, Jim Peters Big Screen Projectors PRMHELP@EARTHLINK.NET
QUALITY NEW, USED & REFURBISHED PROJECTOR SALES & REPAIR See our products on Ebay at Seller ID BIG*SCREEN*PROJECTORS With over 3,000 sales we still carry a 100% positive feedback rating!
QUALITY NEW, USED & NEW PROJECTOR SALES & REPAIR See our products on Ebay at Seller ID BIG*SCREEN*PROJECTORS With over 3,000 sales we still carry a 100% positive feedback rating!
If the lamp is new, then your problem is caused either by the lamp socket that the lamp slides into, or the lamp thermal fuse. The white part over the fan is a dropping resistor, which allows the projector to operate in the "LOW LAMP" position of the power switch. A factory-trained service dealer can help you locate the parts or (better suggestion) isolate & repair your projector.
This model uses two of the STK-392-110 convergence IC chips.
Both of them need to be located and replaced--along with any of the several 1.8 ohm protect resistors around them that are bad.
The hard part in this model is getting at the chips--I can tell you what is involved if you or someone you know can do the repair.
Considering that total parts cost if you buy the chips on Ebay (I can tell you the best seller there) will be under 15 dollars plus shipping, if you can do this you can save the set and a LOT of money.
Most shops are going to get 300 or more for this repair.
Let me know if you HAVE QUESTIONS or need more information--I am here to help people.
If this information has helped you, rate this solution as I do this here for FREE.
If you have a HItachi 43fdx15B and the convergence is bowed----look in the customer menu and see if it will adjust---if Blue is skewed and will not move here is what is wrong.
The model you indicated is a 2002 model and uses two of the STK-392-120 CONVERGENCE chips----both along with any bad resistors around them need to be replaced---the resistors are easy to see and or check.
The reason this happens is the chips are 2 1/2 inches wide by 1 1/2 inches tall and black in color---18 pins each.
The back of each chip is metal--a white grease called heat sink compound is applied to each when they are installed and bolted to the large metal heat sink with fins. After some years the grease dries out and one of the chips cannot move the heat fast enough and it goes.
This is a fairly easy set to do this repair on----if you remove the back cover (unplug set first) and from the back of the set on the far right side you will see a circuit board about 5 inches wide and 12 inches long--the chips are on the far right side and will have the STK-392-120 printed on them in white letters.
The resistors are to the left and behind the chips---the blue resistors will be near the back edge of the board--all will have location numbers printed on top of the board under them, like RK56 etc.---any resistor that is somewhat discolored will be bad--they can all be tested just like testing a fuse.
That board comes out very easy---3 screws and a number of plugs---you need to mark the 3 identical plugs near the resistors--usually they will have felt pen markings of red, green, blue---red towards the front and blue towards the back with green in the middle---they are the convergence yoke plugs.
Considering that you can buy a pair of the chips for less than 14 dollars on Ebay (I can tell you the seller) if you or someone you know can solder and replace them, I can tell you everything you will need to do this repair----you can save the set and a lot of money--most shops get 300 for this kind of repair.
If you get someone else to fix it--MAKE SURE THEY REPLACE BOTH CHIPS--some clowns will just change one and the set is going to have the same problem again in a few months---once the chips and any bad resistors are replaced the set will not have this problem again for 5-8 years---lifespan on the parts.
Let me know if you want more details or information---I am here to help people---this is a fairly easy repair on this model----I know, I have done hundreds of them in the last 8 years.
The cost of repair will most likely be close to what the HDTV cost brand new. Even if LG did cover it, the glass is often not completely covered by warranty.Broken screens are the worst kind of issues to deal with when considering HDTVs. I would stay away from the actual tv until you get it repaired(health issues). I personally would not recommend buying the tv. If it was so easy to fix, then why didn't the current owner take care of the warranty issue before he decided to sell it?(could have made more $$$)