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Blower Motor cycles on & off

Burner ignites fine but the blower motor will not stay on. It blows hot air for about 10 seconds and shuts down for about 30 seconds and will continue this cycling, meanwhile the burner is staying lit.

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Whats happening is thje heat exchanger is cooling off and cycling the fan off this is a normal occurance whenever the unit is first turned on.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

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Boy it sounds like a high limit opening up and shutting off the gas valve. It won't shut off the blower because it wants to cool off thge furnace. Check for any restriction in the air delivery system, filter, registers. Check for blockage of the exhaust vent.

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If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

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Are you saying that main burner is coming on or pilot /hot surface ignitor or spark ignitor ? If your induced draft motor is coming on then a few seconds later your main burner is coming on for 3 seconds and then shutting off but blower motor is not coming on I would look at flame sensor to make sure it is telling the fan motor to come on. Normally they will try three or four times and then lock out. One easy way to check blower motor is to set your thermostat to fan on. Fan motor should come on and run till you shut it off.hope this help you.

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Burners ignite but turn off after a few seconds


On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

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1 Answer

Fan doesn't come on


First is the blower motor casing hot to the touch? If so, the motor is probably bad, capacitor good? If the blower isn't running the burners will shut down due to overheating. You could have a dirty flame sensor, circut board problem or loose/bad wire connection.

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The exhaust blower starts for about 15 seconds then shuts off. several minutes later, the same thing happens - over and over


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Ruud silhouette #UHDG-07EAUER won't heat house


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(HVAC) Furnace Not Igniting Quickly


Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.

Jan 08, 2009 | Carrier XHB123D X/Y Series Heat/Cool Air...

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I have a problem with my heating system. It is about 10 years old and has had the ignitor, combustion blower motor, and programable thermostat replace in it's lifetime. The system worked great last year....


sounds like its not proofing flame. it has a sensor usually like a needle sticks out into the flame that tells the gas valve the flame lit and is burning so its ok to keep sending gas, if its fails to proof flame then burner shuts down, then it tries to relight 3 times then locks out on fail safe. the blower will sometimes run continually once that occurs to highlight a failed condition. every time you reset it will try again 3 times then shut down. lp gas is very dangerous, even i do not work on it as the gas acts like gasoline and lays around. not like natural gas that disperses well. if you see the flame sensor try gently cleaning it with a little emory cloth. also a loose ground can cause this. check tio be sure any green wires are snug , they actually flow volts to ground through the flame on some to proof, thats why no ground no flame. if that fails then the board is most likely problem. change wire for wire , or get generic replacemant and follow directions exactly. good luck.some ignitors act as a flamre proofer as soon as they are done igniting! rarely do they fail to perform both funtions.

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