Question about Getac W130 PC Notebook

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GETAC W130 Remove Hard drive

Have battery removed ETC started with screw removal, Including rear facing hinge cover mounts.

Unable to proceed!! Not sure what would be next DUE TO COMPOSITE MATERIAL USED ALL METAL CONSTRUCTION.

?? Should I place Flat screw driver under Front low panel ?? Panel where power button is located?? I looked for STANDARD?? Under keyboard entrance Points None visible??

Looked for manual everywhere I could think of. Support via web site ETC etc.

I need to get to hard drive for data recover and repair OS. This model does not have a CD onboard .

Posted by on

  • tnjaybird Jan 13, 2009

    Im in need of an ac adapter for the Getac W130 as well as a hard
    drive caddy or connector and battery and battery cover i just bought what was supposed to be the right adapter but it didnt fit and now they want to know the tip size ??

  • ohlipp May 22, 2009

    I got the same unit without the harddrive caddy but I only need a ribbon cable for hardrive that goes to mbo. Any help?


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  • 11 Answers

Hope I'm not too late.

You can access the hard drive by removing the bottom panel.

You need to first remove the battery cover, battery spacer, and then the two screws in the battery compartment.

Then remove all the large screws on the bottom plate.

Don't remove the little ones that hold the rubber port flaps, just open each flap so it won't get hung up on them.

Then take a flatblade like a mechanics size and insert it in the slot at the top edge just inside from the corners. They will be at the handle end of the laptop.

What you do is stand the laptop up on end.

Insert the blade at an angle while holding the handle in the other hand.

Lift the screwdriver handle upwards so that the blade grips downwards and lifts the bottom off the laptop. The slots I mentioned are not so obvious, but think of them as access holes and the bottom plate is wedged into the case like a can of sardines. If you stick your driver in there you can pry it up at the top and then it will open up and still be attached at the back until you open it up a full 90 degrees.

It will be a little tight at first but once it moves it come off freely with a couple wires attached.

I can send you a photo if you can't find the two openings.

You can access the hard drive in the middle left area without removing the entire cover.

You just need to open it wide enough to pry up the connector from the hard drive where it plugs into the board.

These are supposedly 1.8" drives so most likely you'll need to find an adapter to be able to recover your files. Usually a ZIF to IDE and then use a USB 2.5" enclosure or you might be able to order a ZIF to USB enclosure. I can help you figure that out once you pull it out. I swear I counted 46 pins on the mainboard side. I'm stumped until I see what you pull out of there.

I'm interested in photos and info on the drive and connector since mine is missing and I was to find something that might work instead of paying full cost from the manufacturer.

I also need an AC adapter for this damn thing, but it sure looks cool!

As far as laptops, it's way too heavy but the most Bad *** case on the planet.

Makes me think of the bad guy in those action's like some kind of super detonator tracking monitoring bleeping minefield activating superslick laptop the hero must disarm or destroy!


Posted on Jan 03, 2009

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Find me a Gateway zx4300 all in one repair manual


Could you?

Would appreciate?

Thank you in advance?

Let\'s try to maintain a professional approach here, even if it is only an illusion...............

Moving on..............

I see from search hits on the internet;

That the problem may be no graphics, due to graphics chipset mounting; due to inadequate cooling for the graphics chipset.

\'Repair\', (Ha I like how they toss that word around), is to replace the motherboard.
Then upon a certain amount of time later, the same issue happens again.

\'Repair\'? ............Oh, yeah...............replace the motherboard again.

This = NO solution

Are there no REAL techs out there anymore?

To PROPERLY repair the problem, you must STOP the cause from happening again.

Otherwise it\'s like bumping your head against a hard object, only to repeat it again.............., again, and again..........No learning ability.

No learning as to what caused the problem in the first place, and try to develop a long lasting solution to the problem.

I believe that is somewhere along the lines of snail mentality.

Not homo sapiens.

[Do snails have a measurable mentality? I - don\'t - know.
Hey it\'s MY solution, lol! Tell this story anyway I want]

No, keep the h-ate mail. I realize this isn\'t a Service Manual, nor pictorial disassembly guide.
You gets what I gets.

1) Have your ESD wrist strap on? Connected the aligator clip to a good ground source? Average cost is around $3 to $5.

This is a laptop disguised as a desktop computer.
Once you remove the Back Cover, and the large metal Static Shield, the highly static sensitive hardware parts are now exposed.

You can static shock them out, and not even know it.
POOF! No computer.

[The most susceptible hardware component to Static shock, is the Processor. (CPU ]

2) Views of the casing parts, and Stand; shown removed.
Posted because it becomes more apparent, how removal should proceed.

You can see the screw holes, and determine where the screws are.
Labels, small cover, etc; may be in the way, not allowing this.

You can get a \'feel\' of where each cover component, fits together with each other. Helps to simplify removal.

How removal of a small cover, etc; may lead to get to the Stand\'s hinge screws.

At least that is the premise.........

Stand -

Rear Cover - views, shown removed,

Outside view, Inside view, and Side views; of the Back Cover, removed.

Large metal Static Shield. Also known as Fan Cover.

This because it also directs the flow of air from the fan, over the various hardware components that need cooling.

Looks highly inadequate for the job; to me,

Front Bezel,

Suggest use a multi-compartment container, for the various screws you will remove.
Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of.
SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws.
Advise DO NOT mix them up.

In the video;

A) Where the young gentleman states using a credit card, (1:16), and popping all the little clips off..........

Umm, not quite like that.............
They don\'t come off.
You are just removing the Back Cover FROM the mounted clips, on the metal frame.

The credit card depresses those metal clips. Releases the Tabs on the Back Cover.

Case parts from front to rear;
Front Bezel / Back Cover / Rear Cover
Duck and Cover ( gonna\' believe that last one?)

Rear Cover:
Looks to be 2 small Philips head screws to remove.
1 at each Top corner.

Bottom of Rear Cover has 2 U-shaped Latches. These SIT on Tabs.
When screws are removed from Top, ease the top out towards you a little; then lift up, and out.

Hinged Stand:
Looks to be 2 screws each, to remove from the Hinge\'s brackets.
Could be wrong, may be 1 each, but of course YOU will know.
You\'re looking at it, lol!

Back Cover:
Remove 1 screw each from all four outside corners. (Philips)
Using the credit card, slide around the area, in-between the Back Cover, and metal frame.
Remove Back Cover.

Cooling System:
Cooling Tube, Heatsink, Fan Assembly

In the video look at 2:47 (Or in-between shakes. Not bad mouthing)
Here is a better view, just upside down,

(You can click to enlarge)

Here you see the curved copper Cooling Tube.
Come from the black Fan Assembly, up the Cooling Tube; and stop at the first small aluminum metal plate.

Six rivets, three on each side; two long small metal \'arms\' sticking out.
That small aluminum plate sits on the GPU.
(Graphics chipset, or more properly known; GPU.
Graphics Processing Unit)

Come up to the large cast Aluminum plate. Four long small \'arms\' stick out, make an X-pattern.
That plate sits on the CPU. (Processor)

Fan Assembly:
That weird D-shaped black shroud, with the small black multi-bladed fan in it.

That rectangular shaped area at the bottom, of the Fan Assembly.

Fan Assembly removes, and first. Unplug fan cable from motherboard.

Heatsink is part of Cooling Tube.
4 screws to remove from processor plate, 2 screws to remove from graphics chipset metal plate.

Lift Cooling Tube/Heatsink off.

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