Infinity 610A doesnt seem to have enough power as it did
First of all Nice ear drivers I also have a pair great for mixing at home or in small venues,, ,,My question is My 610 doesnt seem to have the ame amount of power as it did when I first had it hooked up , It seriously would rump any thing I put on it. It set in the trunk for a while lying dorment, and Im pretty sure I had the speaker wires just laying there on the carpet, carelessly i know,, but its possible onthe could of always been
arckn each other , Just one set was hooked up , (2 channel) but the wire was just laying there. I know its very possible that the - + could have been touching for a very long time. I know its Not my cables or anything else because my other amp works fine, also tryied the 610 in another car and still has the same problem ,,, Let me know what you think,, ,,,,,,Late
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
kappas are 2ohm. You are running that amp at 2ohms stereo on front and rear channels. That is a nice amp, but it is a thirsty one. If you have a sub amp as well, then you are not supplying your amps with enough power. drop down to 0 gauge and see if it heats up anymore. Also, try going high pass if you have subs. If you don't have subs. You need to run 4 gauge and make sure you have a great ground.
Your subs will share the amp output. And if you are not careful, you'll end up blowing them. The amp puts out 1300 watts RMS at 2ohms, the subs have an RMS power range of from 75-350 watts, and you'll be driving them with 650 watts each. A better power match would be to series the subs to present an 8ohm final load. This will reduce the output power to a level the subs can handle. Or you could buy 2 more 12.1's and connect them series-parallel for a 4ohm load and each sub would still be getting 325 watts RMS, just about the maximum they are rated to handle.
Hope this helps.
Yes if your wires are to small they dont supply enough power to the amp and it will shut down..Also the ground..Check all connections for tightness and that none of the wires are touching or grounding out...Hope this helps you and have a great day
trying to draw to much power off the amp, i would say it isnt big enough for the subs you have or the wire (power) for the amp is way to small. car audio has specific requirements exact specs on all of it will make a big difference in the help we can give.
Not sure if it's what was meant by previous poster. But if you're just driving the two subs off the 4 ch, and no other speakers, your best bet is to run pairs of bridged channels, ie use the 4 ch as a more powerful 2 ch amp. Then independently run one sub on each of these paired channels.
If you bridge all 4 channels (not sure if this is an option on this amp), and then run your subs in series, you will likely lose out compared to the peak power you could be seeing with two independently paired channels.
The easiest thing to test is to try swapping the connections of the front component speakers at the amp connections. If the problem follows the speakers, the issue is probably with the speakers. I would triple check (again) the speaker wire connections. It's also possible the crossover for the driver side component speakers has an issue (thus why the tweeter worked for a while).
If the problem stays on the drivers side, the issue is probably with that channel on the amp. Triple check the RCA connections for that channel.
It's much easier to test other speakers on an amp channel versus trying to check it with a meter.
If the driver's door is "abused" often, my initial thought is the wiring at the speaker or the wiring in the speaker (to voice coil, within the crossover, etc) is the most likely culprit.
In all reality, that amp is probably a bit small for those two subs. To maximize the power from the amp to the subs, make sure:
The dual voice coils of each sub are in parallel (+'s together, -'s together). This makes each sub 2 ohms.
Connect the subs in series (+ to -). This makes the combination of subs together 4 ohms.
Bridge the 2 channels of the amp to the subs in series (see above).
This will put somewhere between 150-200W to each sub.
Keep in mind, though, that depending on the music type and location in the vehicle, the type and size of the sub box is going to make almost as much difference as how much power is on the subs. Sealed boxes are usually small and have a nice flat response, but tend to need more power to sound louder. Ported and bandpass boxes are larger and aren't as flat of a response, but have nice loud peak at a certain frequency.
this problem sound like you have too low of power going to your amp, test your battery and make sure its putting out enough power for at least the mininum amount of power that your amp requires, you can find that information in your manual or sometimes they post it on the amp itself. i hope this info helps